Crazy plumbing question

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May 16, 2006
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Spokane, Washington, United States
Alrighty, bare with me, as this may be a bit confusing to type, probably even more so for those of you reading...lol.

As some of you know, I'm setting up a 200 gallon Marineland Deep dimension, dual corner overflow, with Starphire front glass.

In talking with Barbie, and then another hobbyist who recently set up this same tank, we came up with an idea, that seems crazy, at first...but more feasible, the more I think about it.

The overflows come with Marineland Dursos and returns, 1 Durso and 1 return for each overflow. The overflows also have a removable "plate," at the front, that has a "grill" cut into the bottom of it, and a grill cut into the top. The top grill works as the overflow preskimmer. The bottom grill has no purpose that I can see, as the are no holes behind it......yet!!! Oh boy, I can see this is going to require pictures.

Here's a picture of the overflow, front plate installed.
3721781538_13b370b44c_b.jpg


Front plate removed and plumbing setting in place.
3720968819_435220939f_b.jpg


Front plate.
3720969387_17ee1cac35_b.jpg


So, here's our thoughts, yes, Barbie's included in this possibly insane idea!!!

One of the overflows will serve as a typical overflow, as designed, draining to a sump/refugium and then returning.

The other overflow will be modified and used as a closed loop feed. Here's the plan:

Remove the plate and drill 2X 1"-1 1/4" holes in the overflow, in about the area of the lower "grills." The removable plate will be reinstalled over these holes. These new holes will then be plumbed to the bulkheads, using spa flex. PVC would be used from the bottom of the bulkheads onward... This will give me 2X1" lines, draining out the bottom of that overflow. These 2X1" lines would be combined, using a Y, into a single 1 1/2" line, which would feed a large pump, like a Dolphin 3000/4000. The output of the pump would be 1 1/2" or 2". The output would be split into either 2 or 4 return lines, which would return over the back. My first thought, is 4 return lines, 2 feeding 3/4" Seaswirls and 2 feeding 3/4" locline with penductors. Each return line would be plumbed with a ball valve, to fine tune flow. Ball valves would also be plumbed before and after the pump. If needed, I would also plumb a diversion line, to divert some flow to the sump, but I don't think this would be needed.

It was also suggested, by the other hobbyist, who recently set up this same tank, that I could incorporate this same pump, as a sump/refugium return. This would eliminate the need for a second return pump, in the sump. He explained to me how this would be accomplished, but in the confusion of typing this post, I've lost it....lol. The other option would be to leave the original overflow alone, draining it into the sump/fuge, and installing a return pump in the sump/fuge, that would return through the original overflow.

This would give me one overflow that's plumbed to the sump/fuge and the second overflow being modified for the closed loop.

My original concern was that the 2X1" lines would limit me to only about 1200 GPH of flow. Then it was brought to my attention that the 600GPH per hole, represents gravity flow, NOT flow forced by the large pump.

Soooo, does any of this make any sense at all??
 
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I wouldn't even need the spa-flex, if I just stubbed 1" PVC a couple of inches out of each bulkhead, add an elbow and screened the ends off with the screen from a foot valve. This would enable all of the water in that overflow to be turned over quickly. It would also enable me to cut more, or larger holes, behind that cover plate.
 
I can forsee your corner that you are using for your CL input being a collection place for low flow water and algae - might need want to consider removing the top half of the preskimmer to open it up, or capping off the grates so its a dry area back there.....

Good thing plumbing isnt my forte, time to wrangle Greg into the convo and see what kind of nerd ideas he comes up with - Ha!
 
I'm actually thinking the opposite may happen. Water in that corner overflow will be turned over more than the other overflow. The pump I'd use is rated at about 4300 gph. If I do see accumulations of detritus, I could install a small powerhead INside that overflow...lol. Lots of room in there.
 
I don't know that you will be able to pull 3-4000 GPH thru the screens in the overflow without starving the pump for water. I would also tee the two 1 inch lines into a single 2 inch line as that would help from starving the pump. I think that this is a great idea and could be an excellent way of utilizing that overflow.
 
Scott, my plan is to have both 1" drain lines converge into an 1 1/2" line, through a Y, before entering the suction side of the pump. Another concern is that the pump will pump water faster than it's able to suck water through the 2X1" lines. This would cause cavitation. I know that centrifugal pumps are designed to push, no suck. It does seem that, with 24" of water above the highest point of the suction feed lines, it would keep the suction side of the pump flooded at all times. The ends of the 1" lines wouldn't so much be screens as "foot valves" such as this, but just the slotted end:
show_image.php
 
You are going to be leaving the front plate on the corner overflow aren't you? If you are then I don't see why you need the screens over each of the 1" pipes in the bulkheads. You could screen the top of the overflow off so no snails could get in there and then there would be no need for the screens on the bulkhead pipes. I think that the fewer screens that the water has to get thru the less chance for cavitation.
 
I'd actually thought of that also. If I screened the top, I'd have nothing to worry about. As far as I can see, the only limiting factor will be the 2 holes that are drilled in the bottom of the tank and whether they can supply the pump with enough water, on the suction end. I'm going to call Spokane Pump in the morning and talk to one of their techs.
 
Hmmm, I remember from my days working for my ex father-in-law, as a plumber, learning that the volume of an 1 1/2" pipe is more than double that of 2X1" pipes. It's weird how it works out and he gave me the formulas for figuring it out, but I don't remember any of them...lol. However, if I could find a way to go from 2X1" to a 2", I'd definitely do it.
 
Oooooh you boring the current holes bigger? Just from my experience I would leave as is. I know my heart sank to the floor when I found out the bottom cracked between the BH in my 270g. Luckly my top opening was big and wide enough to slip a whole new sheet of glass in to patch up the whole bottom. Good luck with what ever you decide to do.
 
The cross sectional area of a 1.5" ID pipe is 2.25 X the area of a single 1.0" ID pipe. So a 1.5" ID pipe would be slightly more than the area of two 1.0" ID pipes. That is because the cross sectional area of a circle is pi * radius^2.

For a more accurate calculation, you could find out thte actual inside diameters of the 1.0" and 1.5" pipes.

Gary
 
Roscoe, no no no!!! Again, NO way am I boring out the bottom holes larger. I would just be drilling 2 (or more) holes into the plastic of the overflow, behind the removable "grate."

Gary, I knew there was a complicated formula involved...lol. Thank you for the confirmation!!! So, combining the 2X1" drains into a 1 1/2" line, at the suction end of the pump would be adequate. The 1 1/2" line can hold more water capacity than the 2X1" lines could provide it with anyway.

Now to just figure out if that type of "intake" can keep the suction end of the pump flooded, while the output is pumping water out.
 
Roscoe, no no no!!! Again, NO way am I boring out the bottom holes larger. I would just be drilling 2 (or more) holes into the plastic of the overflow, behind the removable "grate."
QUOTE]

Oh OK Good..... I misunderstood everything. I would hate to see the project go south. Have you considered Vortechs for flow? I have 2 MP40 on each long end along with Tunze mounted on a WS. I get some mad mad current in it now.
 
I suggest using gate valves to fine tune flow instead of ball valves. Ball valves are great for on/off, and gate valves are better for controlling flow. Also, installing true union valves on the intake and output lines of your closed loop pump allows you to perform maintainance on your pump without losing allot of water.

I am trying to visualize using a single pump to act as a closed loop pump and a sump return pump. The beauty of a closed loop is that you have minimal head loss and can use a high-flow non-pressure rated pump that consumes less energy. If you were to plumb multiple intakes to the pump, inclusing one from the sump, you would lose some of the potential flow from the pump. Also, if the single pump were to stop working for any reason, you would lose both your closed loop flow and your sump return flow.

G
 
I agree with gas4544 about using more than one pump for your system. I don't think it would be good to be relying on one for all your flow in your system.
 
Yeah, I abandoned the idea of incorporating the sump into the system right off the bat...lol.

I agree about the gate valves, as apposed to ball valves and will use true unions before and after the pump. I'll also use gate valves before each return line (Seaswirls and penductor returns) to enable the fine tuning of each return.

So, as long as I'm able to figure out if I'll be able to supply the pump with enough water, the plan is to use the left corner overflow as it's meant to be used, and the right corner overflow as the water supply to feed the closed loop pump. The left overflow plumbing will drain to the sump/fuge and return with a small pump in the return area of the sump. I'll only need a pump large enough to handle the one drain, and create enough flow for the sump/fuge.
 
You may want to consider putting in a return manifold to feed other equipment such as a calcium reactor for all of my (oops I mean your corals) and possibly phos and carbon reactors.
 

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