doing a closed loop on a 240 gal.

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Nah Mike, I think hes replying to my question about the left side of the tank. It looks like he will have both front and back showing.

Danny,
The 23" on the overflow is sweet. I wouldn't draw the water off from the overflow itself but I would plumb thru it. I would drill holes for the drain in the side of the overflow and then attach a 90 (or you could even go straight out the side of tank) and run piping down thru the bottom of the overflow. That way you are not drawing from the water that is going over the overflow, just plumping thru it. I would try to design my close loop coming up from the bottom of the tank and thru the overflow. Sounds like it could be really sweet. Mike can really help you on exact hole placement.

Paul
 
Danny,
One other thing, because your going thru the side you could really get some good current alternating from left to right. Are you doing sand? Even if you are you could even make a fake sandbed and not worry about the flow turning it up. But Mike is right, you will probably want a lot more flow than the DP2700 can give you. I would also get a Motorized Ball Valve and alternate the flow. Going from the sides and bottom will give you a lot of options.
Paul
 
Mike where do I go to see your personal setup? Paul, Yes i would like to have sand call me old fashioned but i like the sand be for different reasons. I will probably put 2- 3" sand bed in this tank. This is what I had in mind since the stand or wall unit the sides will be closed off I thought I would run the closed loop up the side of the walls to the top of the tank and put the lock lines in each of the four corner pointing down out of the top of the tank. Since the lock lines are able to adjust different directions this will give me water flow away from the bottom but I was wondering will this effect my overflow so that it doesnt skim the way it should? Then drilling the drain for the closed loop in the side of the tank next to the overflow trapezoid.
 
Hey Danny,

Mike's website is http://mojoreefs.homestead.com/files/280_001.htm . If you click on his name you will see a link to his website. Your touching a few different issues so I'm going to let Mike answer your last post. But one of the reasons you want flow near the bottom is to remove waste and stuff from the tank. That's one of the reasons people go barebottom.
If your concealing the ends of the tank then this will make it easier for you to plump and not worry about the look.

Since your thinking about having a canyon you should also check out http://www.oregonreef.com/ .

Paul
 
Cool pics Danny, I dig it too. I will be out sunday, and we can take photos of the overflows the way the holes are predrilled, so that people can see them. I have been thinking on it and want to see what you think. IF you like it we will post pictures for others input and see If it will work. lol. You should post a pic of the lighting sys. It will make everybody drool. LOL. Steve
 
Going sand is fine Danny, it does make a difference how and what kind of flow we put into the tank though. With sand thier is no need for alot of bottom flow so we can concentrate on the upper water column.
The best way I can see is to put a couple of drain lines inputs (2 x 1 1/2) on one side of the tank, and then go up and over as you said, but intead of just doing four corners you should put in multiple outs as the pipe goes along the top. I still think the 2700 will be to small, I would suggest a MBV or another pump.

I went through this kind of a design with Alberto and he pulled it off reall well, take a peek at it .

http://www.reeffrontiers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=5253

Mike
 
Mike can you draw something up on the computer and post it so I can see what you are talking about and I will try to take some pic of the tank from above and under it so you can see the overflows and the factory holes drilled for the overflow. I dont mind ordering another pump but if the dolphin will work I would like to use it if i can. I have spent alot more than I planned on already on this tank but I will sell it if i have to on ebay or if anyone on here can use it. It was rated for 2900 gph an hour wich would repeat the tank flow 15 times in and hour. But then again I want the tank set up right Steve said I need to get the new dolphin 3000 series it pumps 3000 gallons an hour.
 
here is what we discussed today. This seems to be the way danny wants to go. It looks like it will work to me. I would appreciate if you all would take a look and let us know what you think before we drill the holes. LOL. What do you think mike? He wants 2 inchs of sand, the holes for the output of the closed loop through the top of the tank, the inlets for the closed loop on the short sides inclosed. I hope this picture I drew makes sense. My two year old niece can do better than me. LOL. Any input is much appreiciated. Thanks in advance. Steve
 
I can not begin to tell you where all the lines went when converting from bmp to jpeg format. Sorry. I hope you can make some sense out of it. It is my understanding that the lifereef filter system will be flowing about 2500 gph and the closed loop will be flowing about 2800 gph. that is a turnover of about 22 times a hour. His main desires are clams, and amemones, more than sps corals. It seems to me that with 2 250 watt xm 20ks and 2 250 xm 10ks plus 2 110 vho atinic whites and 2 110 vho atinic blues he will be able to keep any clam or anemone he desires. The plan is two sloping reef banks from each narrow end of the tank to be the high part sloping down to a large swimming valley in the center. The fish load plan is queen angel, blode naso tang, chromis, clowns, gobies, and blennies. Mainly small colorful fish with lots of clams and anemone. If any one has any ideas they all will be taken into consideration. He like the figi rock the best so he has ordered 200 lbs plus he has about 50-60 in his smaller tank now.
The rock is to be cured in the garage, the life reef is supposed to ship on dec 14th. That gives us a little time for discussion. I took a bunch of photos but it is pouring down rain and cold so I am not going back out to the car tonight. LOL. Thanks Again Everybody. ALOT!!!!! Steve
 
I like it, Steve, seems as if it will work well. With the loc line you will be able to get the outputs directed and have some good flow without kicking up sand. Will there be a motorized ball valve or anything switching the direction of the current from one side to the other?
 
Talked to Mojo on the phone today. I like his idea for a manifold down the length of the tank on each side a lot better. If Danny aproves I think that is the way to go as well. Thanks Mike, for spending your time helping us. I really apreciate it. Very Much. Steve
 
I have talked to mike and steve both today and have had a @$*!& evening since they are telling me that I am going to have to spend more money on this tank. They are killing me. I have two options 1. buy another dolphin 2700 gph pump and purchase a wave maker timer. 2. buy a hayward actuating ball valve and timer, use the pump i have now the dolphin 2700 and put two 1 1/2" inlets with screens to the pump with a 1 1/2 manifold having 10 loc line nozzles. I think i am going to go the 1st option and purchase another pump and timer to give the wave motion that my tank requires. Mike if you read this give me your input. I figured at least this way it will give me more gph plus incase of pump failure I will have one to fall back on.
 
Danny once the joy of your reef is in your home the pain of the money spent will be forgot. That is unless Amy divorces you and you have to live in the gargage with the neighbors dog. LOL She hooked too man. Its going to be worth every penny spent. It will be your pride and joy. Hope you have a good night man. LOL. Steve
 
Hey guys if any one is out there or mike if you read this I have come to a decision I think. I am going to go ahead and purchase another pump the Dolphin 2700 and assemble the closed loop with shut off valves on the intake and outlets so I can add on a ball valve later with out messing with the tank. I would use just one pump with a actuating ballvalve 3way but If I had pump problems then it would be bad. I have found a 2 way actuating ballvalve by hayward for 99.99 but he says he wont ship but i am trying to talk him into it. Mike I know you said you could get a three way can you get a two way also 1.5"?
 
Danny I think the reason you need a three way ball valve is that a two way would be just on or off not leftside then rightside. See what I mean? Steve
 
I know that but if i have two of them one on each spray arm coming from the seperate pumps and put it on a timer then they will shut off and on. One side will close and the other pump will open see what I mean. The guy emailed me back and said he would ship if I pay pal him he would pay shipping If i buy two which I have to buy two anyways if i go this route.
 
Well everyone I have decided what to do I have ordered a ocean motion 4 way from Paul with the version 1 and version 2 drums that way I can change my tanks wave motion and experiment with it. I spoke to paul today on the phone and he told me that this would be the best way to do this the extra drum was only $20.00 so that way I can test it and see what works the best. I was planning on purchasing the revelution powerheads but paul said not to do that yet to try his 4 way out first with regular lockline or just put a 1" pvc into the tank with a elbow on it. This way I can see what I need. I will be running a total of Eight lines into the tank switching from one to another at different times. Running two lock lines at one time and then shutting them off and switching to two different locklines.
 

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