Getting ready to add SPS

[mwebber28]

So I'm getting ready to introduce a few SPS to my tank and was looking for tips.

Here is what I have, 75gal with 2-250w 15k halaides that I run 8 hours. My water parameters are:

SG 1.024
Temp 76-82
PH 8.3
CA 500
KH 12
MG 1200
NH3 0
NO2 0
NO3 <1
PO4 2 ** I just set up a PO4 reactor and do not plan to add untill it is at 0.

Water changes 2-3 weeks with Instant Ocean reef crystals.

I'm looking at trying a Stylophora or Birdsnest and a Undata.

So will these corals do fine under current conditions or do I need to alter some parameters. Also when I do changes I get some floates for a few hours then they disolve, is there a better product then reef crystals that disolves quicker?

Thanks

 

[estanoche]

Sounds like you are taking the right steps and making sure everything is is ready to go!!

I'd recommend starting with the stylophora - its a nice, forgiving coral. Birdnests can be unimaginably irritating sometimes as they are quite finicky about placement and water quality and can RTN on you in an instant!! haha

On the dissolved salt particulates issue - most recommend you let your new saltwater mix for at least 24 hours before putting it in your tank - just gives everything time to dissolve. Any salt could have some undissolved salt in it if you are just mixing and changing without giving it time to rest, etc.....

 

[mwebber28]

Thanks for the insight. I was leaning towards the Stylophora, or should I say my wife is...

I generaly make my water up 2-3 days before changes. I guess it is what it is. I not too bothersome, just thought there might be a better product out there.

Thanks again.

 

[TJL]

You should be fine with either coral as both are very tollerant of water quality as long as they get light & flow. 'Birdsnest corals' Seriatopora hystrix (pointed tips) and S. caliendrum (blunt tips) along with Pocillopora damicornis are probably the best beginning SPS corals to start with. They are a colorful group of fast growing peaceful corals. Even with the 3-months of neglecting my system during this Salmon Fishing Season (embarrasingly high Nitrates & Phosphates) they did just fine. If you find yourself up in the Mill Creek/SE Everett area stop by and will gladly give you some starts of a few different colored ones.

Cheers, Todd

 

[jrgilles]

I found pocillopora to be very hearty and forgiving. And, it has the bonus that if it gets stressed, the polyps bail out and then you have many many more growing.

If you happen to be in seattle, I can hook you up with a piece, along with a frag of another generic blue-green stag coral that I have filling up my frag rack right now.

 

[jrgilles]

Also, I think your conditions look good. Ca and KH could go down slightly, as you are near the top of the range, but really it all looks pretty good. SPS will probably grow nice and fast. I have a very similar setup

 

[mwebber28]

You should be fine with either coral as both are very tollerant of water quality as long as they get light & flow. 'Birdsnest corals' Seriatopora hystrix (pointed tips) and S. caliendrum (blunt tips) along with Pocillopora damicornis are probably the best beginning SPS corals to start with. They are a colorful group of fast growing peaceful corals. Even with the 3-months of neglecting my system during this Salmon Fishing Season (embarrasingly high Nitrates & Phosphates) they did just fine. If you find yourself up in the Mill Creek/SE Everett area stop by and will gladly give you some starts of a few different colored ones.

Cheers, Todd

Thanks for the advice and if I'm up in your area I will be sure to stop by and pick up a frag.

 

[mwebber28]

I found pocillopora to be very hearty and forgiving. And, it has the bonus that if it gets stressed, the polyps bail out and then you have many many more growing.

If you happen to be in seattle, I can hook you up with a piece, along with a frag of another generic blue-green stag coral that I have filling up my frag rack right now.

Great I'll be in Seatown on the 8th. Sending a PM now.

 

[tamarindthai]

best temp for sps is temperature swing + or - ,,,,1.2 degree swing no more or less,cheer

 

[kevinpo]

Hello,
I do not like to see the temperature exceed 80F. I think it will be easier to keep the calcium at 400-425ppm and the alkalinity at 8-9dKH. Magnesium at 1300-1400ppm will make it less of a challenge to keep the calcium and alkalinity from bouncing around (read more stable).

Cheers,
Kevin

 

[Frankie]

I agree with Kevin, the water parameters need tweeking to his specifications. At 500ppm corals have a hard time uptaking the calcium calcite and can become stunted in growth.

Is your water change water testing in at those numbers prior to water changing? Don't just test the water in the tank but also test the water that is used for water changing. What you replace the water with is just as important as the water your removing.

I agree with the choice of starter sps corals.

Frank

 

[mwebber28]

I agree with Kevin, the water parameters need tweeking to his specifications. At 500ppm corals have a hard time uptaking the calcium calcite and can become stunted in growth.

Is your water change water testing in at those numbers prior to water changing? Don't just test the water in the tank but also test the water that is used for water changing. What you replace the water with is just as important as the water your removing.

I agree with the choice of starter sps corals.

Frank

I tested the water for a few times right after I set up my RO/DI unit but that was over a year ago and I never tested for CA at that time. I will do that next week when I do my water change. Fact is I only look at the SG prior to changes... guess I'll be changing my pratice from now on and mabey even going back to regular NA versus the reef crystals if my numbers are high.

thanks

 

[tamarindthai]

everybody found and developed their own secret of growing ,coloring and healthy zone on their own SPS tank,,,but after you're setting with and maintain the SPS musted basic fundamental..water chemistry,,remembered and stay with it all the way through,then you will find your way,,and ,you will be success,,good luck,,,cheer

 

[bradr]

You can use lanthium chloride to bring that phos down as an alternative to gfo. You'll notice your alk drops using gfo as it removes the phosphate, just something to keep an eye on. GL!

 

[jrgilles]

So how is the chemistry going now anyway? You get your parameters in check?

 

[NC2WA]

I have to agree with Dang's comment re: water chemistry...with SPS it is consistency of water parameters that makes SPS thrive.

so whatever water parameters you find that work..dial these number in and keep them constant.

 

[mwebber28]

So how is the chemistry going now anyway? You get your parameters in check?

Its more inline with what you guys recomended. Here are the significant changes.

The Pos is 0
CA 440
KH 9

I was able to reduce my high temp currently range is 76-80. I dont think I can do better than tthis uness I add a chiller, somethink I'm not to excited about doing. I raised my lighting fixture another inch, currently 6 inches from glass lid and placed a fan on a timer above my sump that runs durring halide lighting and for an hour after.

I'm getting ready to do a water change this week and will post water test results then. I plan to keep a log of them to compare prior to buying a new product. I'm still using Reef Crystals.

 

[jrgilles]

Sounds good.

A comment:
You will find hardly any people growing coral will use a glass lid. The gas exchange that occurs at the surface of the water is very important, and the glass lid pretty much removes any gas exchange for fresh air. That is also the reason your tank is getting hot. The glass lid also traps a lot of heat.

On my tank, I made some screens that fit in where the glass top would go. I actually have a huge amount of the mesh screen material (1/4" black plastic mesh.) as well as tools for putting the screens together (spline and spline tool.) if you are interested. You can have the spline and screen material free of charge, spline tool I would want back though (or if you get your own, they are just like 5 bucks or so at lowes.) You would buy some strips of aluminum screen edge and corner brackets to assemble the frame for the screen. Very cheap materials. If you are interested in this, I can take a picture of my 'breathable' lid so you can see what I am talking about. Anyway, that will totally eliminate your heat issue. The glass lid with the lights above it are acting like an oven, trapping and heating up your tank (as well as stoping the tank from breathing well.) If you removed it you wouldn't need the fan above your sump anymore.

Anyway, Ca and KH sound perfect! Looks like you have the chemistry well under control

rob

 

[mwebber28]

Excelent point, I never thought about switching out my glass for a screen. Guess what i'm going to do on my next day off, yep, build a few screen covers. Ironicaly I have a screen tool from repairing my back door, dog ran through it to chase a deer and I have several screens left over from when I transitioned from T-5's to halides.

Thanks for the advice.

 

[jrgilles]

cool. They are easy to assemble. Probably want some sort of plastic mesh for the screen material. Can put it in just like actual screen.

Something like garden bird netting would work (I think that is 1/2" squares.)
I do have something like a 6' by 10' piece of 1/4" plastic mesh if you need. I could stuff some in an envelop and mail to you if you want it (minimum order was 6'X12' when I got it for my tank lid)