Help building a 60gl system
- Thread starter Loke
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ac7av
Bring on the FISH!
Good job.
That’s inspiring, I just bought a glass hole saw myself and planning on drilling tomorrow. Any pointers on your experience is appreciated.
That’s inspiring, I just bought a glass hole saw myself and planning on drilling tomorrow. Any pointers on your experience is appreciated.
Make a template for where u want the holes to be. Set ur drill for med. Drill 3/4 the way and the last bit set ur drill to high and drill very slow. U should have alot cleaner exit. Also when u first start place ur drill bit flat and have ur bit on med and hold it as steady as posible. After like 10 sec ur hole should b started. Lots of water and tape on the inside to catch the glass being cut out.
E
eww
Guest
2 MP40's in a 40B? 1 MP20 would be plenty IMO.
I used to post on a freshwater forum and alot of people were very happy with the product for what they paid for it. Some replaced the ballasts. But said for the 150$ they paid or so that it was worth every penny.
ac7av did you drill your tank yet? So i paid for one of the vortex today it should be here tuesday hopefully (thanx rick). next is tommarow finishing the plumbing. i need an adapter for the pump that i am going to use just for a leak test. I still need to get at you nate to see when i can pick up that pump. and i found a single 250hqi pendant with a icecap ballast for the light. i think im in the money as far as equipment now. Im trying to get a controller still though.
ok so here is where im at. I have the plumbing done. did a water test with an oversized return pump(now i understand why you dont want a large pump for a return). the pump i used could beat the overflow hole. But on a good note I dont have any leaks on the tank. I do have a question though. The over flow hole make a sucking sound. i put a air hose down it and it stoped. can i drill a hole in the plumbing onto and put the hose there? Ill post a pic of what im talking about. any tips would be great.
ac7av
Bring on the FISH!
The air hose will work great. I don’t see any reason you could not install the air line directly into the plumping as you indicated in the picture. Just be sure to seal it.
Also this is probably a good time to think about how your going to keep the fish and stuff from getting into the drain. I would recommend you build an over flow box around the drain or use a long perforated tube on that connection to prevent any loss of live stock literally down the drain.
Scooterman
Well-known member
Look at this pick, I put a Tee instead of the elbow, made the stack taller.
http://www.reeffrontiers.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=16456&d=1160447719http://www.reeffrontiers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=14793&page=7
http://www.reeffrontiers.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=16456&d=1160447719http://www.reeffrontiers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=14793&page=7
Scooterman
Well-known member
Ok, a few questions,
1. What size bulkheads do you have?
2. what size plumbing did you use
3. what size pump as in GPH & the plumbing sizes, Inlet & Outlets?
If done properly I think you can make it work out great, just give it some time & we'll do what we can to make it right. You have to get the circulation from the sump right. If you need more flow you can deal with that later for now lets make the basic sump circulation work & quietly.
If you look at the picture I posted, the top cap I drilled holes in it, 1/16" & 1/8" holes until it got really quite. It takes a little practice to get it down but once you do it, you can make any system flow smoothly & quietly.
1. What size bulkheads do you have?
2. what size plumbing did you use
3. what size pump as in GPH & the plumbing sizes, Inlet & Outlets?
If done properly I think you can make it work out great, just give it some time & we'll do what we can to make it right. You have to get the circulation from the sump right. If you need more flow you can deal with that later for now lets make the basic sump circulation work & quietly.
If you look at the picture I posted, the top cap I drilled holes in it, 1/16" & 1/8" holes until it got really quite. It takes a little practice to get it down but once you do it, you can make any system flow smoothly & quietly.
answer 1. they are both 1" 2. 1"pvc i have two ball valves. i can put one on each to controll the flow both ways. 3. Nate R gave me a quiet 1 pump 1200 for a return( Thanx again nate)
I did drill the elbow with that 5/16 hose ( internal diam. is 3/16) and that helps break the syphone in the dt. its not too loud.
Scooterman
Well-known member
If you ever so have issues again i'd change the elbow to a tee but it sou ds like you have it working.
thanx i am going to add the t today as well. just incase. I aslso built an overflow box too ill post pics after im done today,
Scooterman
Well-known member
When you do the Tee, make the top extension a little long so you can keep most salt creep off the top cap, this will help in keeping the holes in the cap clear. Also don't glue the top cap, it should fit snug enough, so you can remove it for cleaning every now & then If necessary. With 1" BH's your limited on the flow rate because you can only drain so much, In general I always oversize plumbing about 1/4" to maybe 1/2" on suctions. This reduces frictional head loss & makes easier flow for drains. The only time I go smaller in size is off a large header into smaller outlets, to gain some pressure if needed!
