I keep over flowing...

[acclnz]

Does anyone have a fail safe way to keep a constant water level in a sump tank (salt water). I have tried float switches, a water level control board and at one point or another they both failed and I have a flood.

Since we're at it, what are you doing about suction cups that no longer hold. Making a mess of my sand bed.

Any suggestions.......please....

Thanks,

Leo

 

[TNT]

Do you have any pictures how you set up your sump and flowing switches, that would help us to suggest you some idea. I am currently using flow switches and don't have problem with it.

 

[BigAl07]

Exactly in what way did your previous switches fail? (snails, algae build-up etc)

One thing I suggest is design a redundant system so that you have a Min switch (On pump) and Max switch (Pump over-ride OFF).

I have 2 high quality suggestions for you.

1) go GHL ProfiLux and implement their Level Control system and then have a BLAST with all the other fun things you can do with it (some inexpensive starter packs available now through dealers)

2) Tunze 3155 Omsolator (ATO). This unit incorporates a float sensor AND an optical sensor on a MAGNETIC base. This unit is expensive (for a one job device) but it's UBER reliable and comes with everything except the ATO reservoir.

 

[acclnz]

The float switches I used did not "open" when the float reached the top of its travel run...
http://www.chicagosensor.com/large/FLT015LargePhoto.jpg
I have them placed in a good spot, its just that they are not working correctly. What type/ brand do you have??

I will get pics of the tank tonight but thanks for the help.

 

[BigAl07]

I'm running 1x Float and 1x Optical both came with my Tunze kit. They are fairly well constructed but the ones that come with the ProfiLux Level Control kit are even higher quality.

 

[estanoche]

do you need to use the electrical contact type of float switch like you have there (ie are you using a lift pump?) or can you use some of the old school kind of "toilet bowl" float switches that are 100% mechanical, no electrical controls?

ohhh - and why are their failing? Are they refusing to close? Is your solenoid a normally open one?? Details details!!! That'll help us think of a good redundancy system for you.

 

[10gnano]

do you need to use the electrical contact type of float switch like you have there (ie are you using a lift pump?) or can you use some of the old school kind of "toilet bowl" float switches that are 100% mechanical, no electrical controls?

ohhh - and why are their failing? Are they refusing to close? Is your solenoid a normally open one?? Details details!!! That'll help us think of a good redundancy system for you.

what brand is that float switch?

 

[Peppie]

I use two switches, One to tell the pump to start and stop. One to back up the main. Both are plugged into a timer that is set to turn on for 1 min. every 6 hours. I am near the tank at least two times a day when the ATO turns on. My tank is an AIO and I run the water volume 2xs less the amount the ATO pump can pump in one min.

Been running this method for around 1 1/2 years with no problems, YET Knock on wood

Just have a back up for your back up.

 

[acclnz]

I am sorry that I left out some of the details…
I was using a right angle, water level float switch as the link shows.
http://www.amazon.com/Liquid-Water-..._1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1323438935&sr=1-1-catcorr
It was set up so when the float goes down the pump in the reserve tank would start to bring up the water level and stop when the float reached the top of the run… This failed on me -4- times (the pump did not shut off) resulting in flooding.

I then switched to the following type…
http://www.amazon.com/Water-Sensor-..._3?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1323438935&sr=1-3-catcorr
This worked well until I totally rebuilt my sump… when I reinstalled it, it no longer worked and started to over flow but I was there to stop it so it did not…

BTW... these were connected to a relay system if that matters.

I do understand you get what you pay for but honestly it’s a magnet and a reed stitch…
Could it b the salt water that is causing my problems??? I know that is what caused my water level control board to fail. The wires got corroded and broke the connection.

Funny thing here is that in the past the flood would just kill the entire room and the water would stop. That also kill the filter too. When I reworked the sump I moved all the wires so that did not happen. Saved my filter but let the water run for what I think was 24 hours… Good thing this is all set up in my garage and did not flood my house.
I did find an proximity sensor in my junk pile that had a plastic housing so I am going to install that tonight for the sump level and going to get some SS rods for the control board.

Any other thoughts are welcomed and appreciated.


Leo

 

[trido]

Ive been using these for years without fail.

AutoTopoff.com

 

[acclnz]

Thanks, I will look into them.

 

[Ed Hahn]

Baffles?

 

[jrgilles]

Yea, redundancy is what you need. A switch in case the first fails, and if that still isn't enough, you can put a third float switch in as a back up for the backup back up. Couldn't see it getting past 3 switches. I have a backup float switch, but my single float switch from chicago sensor hasn't broken.

I also have a dark sump, so no algae buildup or anything. I guess that is another idea. You could put some black plexiglass around the float switches so nothing can grow on them. Mine stay perfectly clean.

rob

 

[acclnz]

Algae was never an issue... I guess i just got some cheep floats.

Thanks to all of you for the feed back and suggestions.

 

[BigAl07]

I understand not wanting to invest a fortune in your ATO... I was in the same boat for a long time. Look at it like this... if your Sump is overflowing then at least some of the water leaving is Salt Water where-by reducing your today concentration of Salt. This could have grave effects on the tank as whole not to mention water on the floor with electricity close by is a "Death Hazard" to say the least. Water is the single largest component of your system and also the most important. That's the last place you want to save a few bucks especially when we're dealing with "Automation".

I'm speaking from experience here. I've done the DIY method, the autotopoff.com method (failed after 2 years), JBJ Auto Topoff Method, and now I'm on the Tunze 3155 system. I can assure you that at least for my tanks I wont have anything less than the Tunze and preferably running ATO off of my GHL ProfiLux so I can "See" what's happening in the tank and why I'm adding water etc. Just don't try to save a couple of dollars when you're dealing with the largest and most important component of your system.

 

[jrgilles]

Another way to deal with the issue is to not have enough water in your ATO reservoir to cause an overflow. Not sure what your sump size is, but if you refil twice a week or something, even if it jams, you shouldn't overflow

 

[TheKraken]

Another way to deal with the issue is to not have enough water in your ATO reservoir to cause an overflow.

I use jugs, gravity, and float valves for ATO duties. The valve (vs a switch) still has issues particularly back when I was dosing Kalk but the worst case is a few extra gallons. As I move to a different style kalk reactor I hope to take advantage of timers to limit the time a pump is on or flow restrictions to make sure I have time to correct.

I see that your switches are failing in the first post. Is the float moving?

 

[T1tan360]

what size pump are you using? your switches are 10w max and a 1 amp max so anything over that will burn up your float switch and cause it to fail. i have had my fair share of diy auto top offs and all of them failed due to cheap float switches. better off buying a unit

 

[dhnguyen]

Ive been using these for years without fail.

AutoTopoff.com

I'll second autotopoff.com as well been using it for years without fail.

 

[dhnguyen]

I am sorry that I left out some of the details…
I was using a right angle, water level float switch as the link shows.
http://www.amazon.com/Liquid-Water-..._1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1323438935&sr=1-1-catcorr
It was set up so when the float goes down the pump in the reserve tank would start to bring up the water level and stop when the float reached the top of the run… This failed on me -4- times (the pump did not shut off) resulting in flooding.

I then switched to the following type…
http://www.amazon.com/Water-Sensor-..._3?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1323438935&sr=1-3-catcorr
This worked well until I totally rebuilt my sump… when I reinstalled it, it no longer worked and started to over flow but I was there to stop it so it did not…

BTW... these were connected to a relay system if that matters.

I do understand you get what you pay for but honestly it’s a magnet and a reed stitch…
Could it b the salt water that is causing my problems??? I know that is what caused my water level control board to fail. The wires got corroded and broke the connection.

Funny thing here is that in the past the flood would just kill the entire room and the water would stop. That also kill the filter too. When I reworked the sump I moved all the wires so that did not happen. Saved my filter but let the water run for what I think was 24 hours… Good thing this is all set up in my garage and did not flood my house.
I did find an proximity sensor in my junk pile that had a plastic housing so I am going to install that tonight for the sump level and going to get some SS rods for the control board.

Any other thoughts are welcomed and appreciated.


Leo

Did you also have a relay to control the voltage? This is important as a surge in voltage could cause failure as well.