After reading leebca's thread, I am unsure whether my foxface has ich or not. It was mentioned that not all spots are ich. How does one tell the difference? The condition developed overnight after acclimating the fish to my tank with the drip procedure/temp acclimation for 2 hours, with the lights off. It had about a 1/2 hr car ride. I question that it is ich because each sandlike granule has a small black circle around it, and none of them are in the gill area. I do not have pictures as I have no camera capable of taking anything worth your time.
Ich or is it?
- Thread starter Maylin2
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Foxface can be difficult to diagnose, based on "looks." They're famous for freaking out owners when they become all blotchy. However, blotchy doesn't look anything like Ich. What you describe as "sandlike granules," does sound like Ich. I usually describe it as looking like someone sprinkled table salt on the fish...lol. If you look closely, maybe with a magnifying glass, those areas might also appear to be "lifted," slightly. It's an effect of the parasite digging into and under the scales. It doesn't have to appear on the gills at all. It'll also appear to come and go. I'm not familiar with the "small black circle" effect, but that could also be part of the wound that Ich inflicts.
It's said that Rabbitfish are more "immune" to Ich than a lot of other fish, but I don't know if I buy that or not.
Hopefully Lee will chime in soon with better advice!!
It's said that Rabbitfish are more "immune" to Ich than a lot of other fish, but I don't know if I buy that or not.
Hopefully Lee will chime in soon with better advice!!
Keep in mind that it's very possible that it did take a swim in very fine sand. Rabbitfish have a nasty habit of laying on their sides, looking dead, in a new tank. However, if it's sand, it should be gone by now. Every once in awhile, I'll think a fish is infected with Ich, only to find that it's sand.
If it is Ich, you'll really need to attempt to catch the fish, to get it into a QT tank, and treat with Hyposalinity. Keep in mind, if you decide to catch it, they are venomous. Don't get poked with the dorsal fin spines.
If it is Ich, you'll really need to attempt to catch the fish, to get it into a QT tank, and treat with Hyposalinity. Keep in mind, if you decide to catch it, they are venomous. Don't get poked with the dorsal fin spines.
How big of a QT tank should I use? I have one empty 10 gallon, and an empty 75 gallon tall. I'd rather use the 10 gallon if I can. Also, any ideas on why it just up and got ich? I don't know if I can properly use hyposalinity as my hydrometer only goes to 1.012... Would I trip acclimate it into the new tank in the event I catch it?
10 gallons is an awful small tank to QT a rabbitfish in, though 75 would be a bit overkill...lol. I have an empty 29 you could use. The problem now, is that all the fish in your tank have the potential to get Ich. To properly treat for Ich, you need to get ALL fish out of your display and QT them, while keeping your display fishless (No Fish) for approximately 8 weeks. During this time, all fish in QT should be treated with hyposalinity. In this 8 weeks, any Ich in the display will die from lack of fish.
Unfortunately, the only way to assure no Ich in the display is to keep it fishless for this entire 8 week period.
As for hyposalinity, you should invest in a refractometer. They're much more accurate than a hydrometer and you'll need to keep your salinity at 1.009 in the QT.
You'll start your QT at regular salinity, matching your display, and lower it over a period of about a week to 1.009. It'll need to remain at this level for about 6 weeks and at least 4 weeks after all visible signs of Ich are gone. Then you'll slowly raise it back up, to match your display, over a period of about a week. Once it's down to 1.009, it's important that it stays that low, so regular, daily topping off and testing of salinity will be needed. This will keep evaporation to a minimum, which will effect salinity levels.
Unfortunately, the only way to assure no Ich in the display is to keep it fishless for this entire 8 week period.
As for hyposalinity, you should invest in a refractometer. They're much more accurate than a hydrometer and you'll need to keep your salinity at 1.009 in the QT.
You'll start your QT at regular salinity, matching your display, and lower it over a period of about a week to 1.009. It'll need to remain at this level for about 6 weeks and at least 4 weeks after all visible signs of Ich are gone. Then you'll slowly raise it back up, to match your display, over a period of about a week. Once it's down to 1.009, it's important that it stays that low, so regular, daily topping off and testing of salinity will be needed. This will keep evaporation to a minimum, which will effect salinity levels.
Yep, didn't think you'd like reading that...lol. Unfortunately, it's the only way to 100% insure that your display is Ich Free.
Just got home... Can we come over sometime tomorrow evening to get the tank? I think I'll have to make due with a hydrometer for now. A saltwater related item a month is about my price limit for this hobby.
Also, the fish's eyes have a strange blue haze over them. No idea what to make of it.
Also, the fish's eyes have a strange blue haze over them. No idea what to make of it.
Yes, you're welcome to come over tomorrow and get our spare 29!! It's never had copper in it, or any other meds, so no need to worry about that. I even have a PC light fixture that'll fit on it. It's nothing special, but will work fine for a QT tank.
