In Wall - going for it! - seeking your ideas/feedback/advice

[class clown]

Strap Wrench sounds like a good idea. I've never installed bulkheads myself, but I pictured it being that you just crank them down as hard as you can w/ some channel locks until your hands hurt. You say it's not much more than hand thightening ehh? if that's the case, I'm worrying about nothing.

That is a lot of holes up front, be careful!

Any suggestions on this scooty? I was thinking I could add a 1x4 that runs perpindicular to the way the decking runs. This may add some extra support. any other ideas? b/c yes, I'm realizing now it is a lot of holes in the back.

 

[CarlaW]

What does your tank builder suggest about having that many holes in a row?
I agree with Scooter about the legs up front, it will be cheap insurance.

 

[Scooterman]

1) If you overtighten the BH's you will ruin the gaskets, even a snug fit is good but don't crank down on them, I learned that the hard way.

2) Add another joist across the front with legs, &/or I would consider a steel frame, do it once & do it right!

 

[Scooterman]

Oh let me correct myself, front & back I have crossed lol I keep thinking of it as a stand rather an-in wall unit!

Also consider you wanted some protection from a quake, well attaching to the wall is great for horizontal shift but put legs up next to the wall for vertical support or support it with a steel frame!

 

[trido]

That stand doesnt need any stinking legs on the front. Ben built it and I installed it. It has a ledger lag bolted to the wall, two angle brackets bolted to the wall and framing, and 2"x 6" car decking nailed with 16D galvanized ring shanks that are continuous from the stand to the inside of the wall resting on a 2x8 sill. You could park a car on that thing and I will guarantee it. Seriously, I have seen suspended garages built in much the same way.
In order to plumb through the front it will be necessary to drill some large holes through 3" of wood. You will need some specialty plumbing tools. Fortunately I know a plumber.

 

[Scooterman]

Ahh, good to know, couldn't see all that LOL!

What about the big holes up back, will that weaken that area?

 

[trido]

What about the big holes up back, will that weaken that area?

It most likely will weaken that area. A quick 2x6 and a couple joist hangers will make light work of the issue.

 

[class clown]

What does your tank builder suggest about having that many holes in a row?
I agree with Scooter about the legs up front, it will be cheap insurance.

good suggestion Charlie - I shot him an e-mail.

1) If you overtighten the BH's you will ruin the gaskets, even a snug fit is good but don't crank down on them, I learned that the hard way.

thanks Scooty - you just saved me from learning the hard way.

In order to plumb through the front it will be necessary to drill some large holes through 3" of wood. You will need some specialty plumbing tools. Fortunately I know a plumber.

Yeah - these are the one's that are worrying me the most. 3" is a lotta wood - don't think I'll have any choice but a sawzall to do that. If I put it between studs in the wall before the ledger board, it seems pretty close to the front of the viewing pane, which would be optimal for flow, but not so optimal for viewing. If I push it back outside of the wall outside of the ledger board, the holes are a lot easier to cut, it is easier to access, and it'll probably look better, but I won't get quite the flow I'm shooting for. hmmm...decisions, decisions.

It most likely will weaken that area. A quick 2x6 and a couple joist hangers will make light work of the issue.

that's an excellent idea - I'll just install it after the holes are drilled, right? Joist hangers are fairly easy enough to hang - i've done those before.

 

[trido]

Yeah - these are the one's that are worrying me the most. 3" is a lotta wood - don't think I'll have any choice but a sawzall to do that.

Not a sawzall. It will butcher some holes into your beautiful stand. A nice big milwakee hole hawg with a 2 1/4" forstner bit on low speed. Then just hang on for dear life. Nice clean big holes.

I'll just install it after the holes are drilled, right? Joist hangers are fairly easy enough to hang - i've done those before

After looking at the plumbing lay out I realized the it will be necessary to put two short 2Xs from the rear joist to the the center one, then a longer one between the two, for a total of three. The two will need to be between the CL bulkheads on the very outside and the overflows and CL intake bulkheads in the middle. The best place to start would be to ask the tank builder if he thinks its even necessary.

 

[class clown]

Well.. just decided to get a little crazy and go for it. So tonight, out came the other side of the wall.

Here's some pix. And of course the pets had to check it out

And here's what i'm talking about with the front bulkheads being pretty close to the front. I'm considering pushing them backwards, but if I pushed them back, I'd have to push them pretty far back.

 

[trido]

I would leave those bulkheads right there. You could simply use a PVC 90 elbow instead of loc line right there (to keep it low to the bottom) and maybe set a small piece of LR on them to hide them. It would be a great place to set a lower light LPS or even an unusual softy. If you use one peg in the LR, the two 90s would serve as a tripod and help keep detritous from setteling underneath in the corner

 

[danno14]

Instead of bulkhead gaskets, use silicone. You still don't want to overtighten, but the goo tends to fill well.

Keep going!

 

[Scooterman]

If you go to the camping section at wal-mart or Academy sports etc.. you can get one of those sleeping mats, there about a 1/2" thick closed cell material, it is real dense & will make a great surface for the tank to rest on, I got blue & it looks great.

Thought I'd just mention that while I remembered, LOL
Looks like you got the structure part covered, I think it will work out nicely. Dry Plumb the CL & you should easily work out the issues & still get what you want.

 

[class clown]

Instead of bulkhead gaskets, use silicone. You still don't want to overtighten, but the goo tends to fill well.

Keep going!

Thanks Dan - Any ideaa where might be a good place to pick some up? the only silicon I could find at Lowes or home depot was the hardening type for like bathrooms and such. You are talking about the gooey silicon, right?

If you go to the camping section at wal-mart or Academy sports etc.. you can get one of those sleeping mats, there about a 1/2" thick closed cell material, it is real dense & will make a great surface for the tank to rest on, I got blue & it looks great.

Scooty - how necessary do you think this is? And, did you just take a razor to cut it to fit? Does it flatten out to like 1/32 of an inch after the tank is filled or does it maintain it's shape better than that?

 

[Scooterman]

No it will not squeeze to 1/32" about 3/16" or more. I think it was either IAP or CFI that said they recommend this on all of their thank, ask your tank builder. I cut it with a razor knife, easy!

 

[class clown]

two products I want to make sure I'm getting you guys on..

#1 Aquarium Silicone - this is the type of silicone that hardens w/ in 24 hrs. Dan, is this what you were talking about? Do I just smear this around the bottom parimeter of the bulkhead and then hand tighten and wait for it to dry?

#2 the closed cell mat from walmart - gotta love the pic Here's the description: A hygienic, multi-purpose mat made to weather tough workouts with a unique closed-cell material that easily repels water or stains. With a cushiony, non-slip surface that's warm and comfortable to the touch. Rolls up for convenient storage. Measures 72" x 39" x 5/8".

 

[danno14]

bingo! that's it

 

[class clown]

I never thought sheet metal could look so pretty :razz::razz::razz::razz: Scott came over and dropped off a preview for what's in store tomorrow.

should be fun!

 

[Jan]

hey class clown, your message box is maxed out...

 

[trido]

That is pretty sheet metal. Mostly because Im not installing it. I hope I cut the existing stuff back in a way that is user friendly for Scott. If not, a little duct tape will have to do.

I stole (with the boss watching) eight feet of the 1/8 laminate flooring underlayment out of the work van for you. It should work well as a tank underfoam. That'll save you another $10.