dragoneggs
Well-known member
Yeah definitely some protection here so you don't somehow get smell or worse backflow, parasites, etc.
In Wall - going for it! - seeking your ideas/feedback/advice
- Thread starter class clown
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Yeah definitely some protection here so you don't somehow get smell or worse backflow, parasites, etc.
class clown
Well-known member
Dang a "stink trap".. sounds ugly..hmm.. maybe I'm in over my head, I certainly wouldn't want anything (fumes, gross water, or other to come back up the pipe and polute my system). even if there is a remote possibility of this leakage, for me, doesn't sound worth it. is a stink trap full proof?
if not, maybe we take the less automated approach on this one.. I.e - roll over a couple brute trash cans on wheels, switch a few valves, turn on a pump or two, I can fill one brute w/ waste water, and use the other to pump clean water in. there is an irrigation drain outside not too far away from my garage. I can channel the waste water down there. the only issue I see with this approach is that I wouldn't be able to do large water changes at one time. 32 gallon max = just over 10% when you factor in the volume of sump water.
hmmm... maybe it's time for one of these bad boys if i can find one for a decent price:
if not, maybe we take the less automated approach on this one.. I.e - roll over a couple brute trash cans on wheels, switch a few valves, turn on a pump or two, I can fill one brute w/ waste water, and use the other to pump clean water in. there is an irrigation drain outside not too far away from my garage. I can channel the waste water down there. the only issue I see with this approach is that I wouldn't be able to do large water changes at one time. 32 gallon max = just over 10% when you factor in the volume of sump water.
hmmm... maybe it's time for one of these bad boys if i can find one for a decent price:
dragoneggs
Well-known member
Ben, I have my ATO working nicely but I want also to automate to some degree, my water changes so I am looking forward to your solution.
Slickdonkey
Drink me
I decided not to tap into my sewer because it's not really a sewer (it's septic). I wasn't sure what saltwater would do to it. Maybe nothing, I don't know, but it was just as easy for me to run the waste line to my gutter where it just drains under my yard and out to the street. Not sure if that will work for you.
For automatic water changes I am using the Litermeter 3 from Spectrapure. Pricey piece of equipment, especially once you add the external pumps, but it is totally mindless and therefore well worth it to me. Basically it does a continuous change throughout the day and you can adjust the amount.
Also there are times when you just want to change 100 gallons of water. For that I just plan a few days ahead of time and mix the appropriate amount of water and pump it into my sump with a Mag 7, and just use the return pump to get it back into the display. For draining the tank I just open up one of my closed loop pipes to empty into the sump, and pump it out to my gutter (again using my return pump).
Hope that gives you something to think about.
For automatic water changes I am using the Litermeter 3 from Spectrapure. Pricey piece of equipment, especially once you add the external pumps, but it is totally mindless and therefore well worth it to me. Basically it does a continuous change throughout the day and you can adjust the amount.
Also there are times when you just want to change 100 gallons of water. For that I just plan a few days ahead of time and mix the appropriate amount of water and pump it into my sump with a Mag 7, and just use the return pump to get it back into the display. For draining the tank I just open up one of my closed loop pipes to empty into the sump, and pump it out to my gutter (again using my return pump).
Hope that gives you something to think about.
I have one of my overflows tapped directly into my house with a ball valve. When I open the ball valve the water is diverted simply by the "path of least resistance" method. As the water is draining I use a maxijet 1200 to fill the sump. It nearly matches the drain rated perfectly.
I think what Don meant by stink trap is the common house hold pea trap that is under your sink. The purpose of this is to hold just enough water so that methane gas doesnt escape from the sink. If you look at your toilet , it has one built right in. Basically the bowl is an oversize trap. Your house has several vents that run throught the roof to allow the gas to escape from there instead, otherwise our sinks and toilets would burp and we dont want to imagine how that would be. If you tap into the four inch drain, (instead of the two inch sink drain like me), The only way that water will get into the tank system is if you open the ball valve while the whole house is backed up and believe me, you will know from the wife long before you get to do a water change. If you want, I can put double ball valve and a few 90s and make an inline pea trap to give you a little assurance. IMO it is unecessary. Never the less. It is your house and your tank. You are the one who has to know things are right for you to sleep good.
I am not good at quick blue prints or taking the time to really put things into detail on the web. Believe me, I had your stand and half of your plumbing done in my head along time ago. You just keep changing things. :lol:
I think what Don meant by stink trap is the common house hold pea trap that is under your sink. The purpose of this is to hold just enough water so that methane gas doesnt escape from the sink. If you look at your toilet , it has one built right in. Basically the bowl is an oversize trap. Your house has several vents that run throught the roof to allow the gas to escape from there instead, otherwise our sinks and toilets would burp and we dont want to imagine how that would be. If you tap into the four inch drain, (instead of the two inch sink drain like me), The only way that water will get into the tank system is if you open the ball valve while the whole house is backed up and believe me, you will know from the wife long before you get to do a water change. If you want, I can put double ball valve and a few 90s and make an inline pea trap to give you a little assurance. IMO it is unecessary. Never the less. It is your house and your tank. You are the one who has to know things are right for you to sleep good.
I am not good at quick blue prints or taking the time to really put things into detail on the web. Believe me, I had your stand and half of your plumbing done in my head along time ago. You just keep changing things. :lol:
class clown
Well-known member
You say "changing things", I say "Improving things" 
So do I understand the concept basically here? I've added the new water change pipes in the red color. I also added another ball valve to the bottom of the drain pipe to create some back pressure so that it'll go down the drain pipe faster.
So do I understand the concept basically here? I've added the new water change pipes in the red color. I also added another ball valve to the bottom of the drain pipe to create some back pressure so that it'll go down the drain pipe faster.
Scooterman
Well-known member
What would be nice is a way to measure how much water is removed so you can add back the same amount!
class clown
Well-known member
That would be nice. I do have an acIII. I'll have an extra float switch on hand too. I could use the flaot swtich and the controller to make sure I'm putting the same amount in the tank as I'm putting in. I could put tick marks on the brute at 5 gallon intervals so I know how much i've done. That's about all I could come up with. That would be a way I could automate it too. hmm.. not a bad idea Scooty.
NC2WA
Well-known member
too bad that dont make a clear brute container, this way you could see from a distance how much water has been used.
BTW, http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/default.asp may have the container you are looking for in thread # 362.
Kirk
BTW, http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/default.asp may have the container you are looking for in thread # 362.
Kirk
class clown
Well-known member
i got a kick out of this photo for some reason. It's your basic stink trap for those of you like me that didn't know what one was before today:
Ben,
Just put a overflow in your sump have the discharge from it go into the drain, or into a container with a float switch/pump going to the drain. Then you just open your valve on your water storage container and the water will drain out on its own.
Just put a overflow in your sump have the discharge from it go into the drain, or into a container with a float switch/pump going to the drain. Then you just open your valve on your water storage container and the water will drain out on its own.
Ben said:
Yep, thats it. Nice blueprints BTW. Want to make a set for a 300sq. ft. deck I need to build?
IMO refilling the sump while draining the display is the way of measuring. When my 22G can is empty I know Ive done a 13% WC. I know I am getting a little mix in the display of the new and the old water and figure I might be losing a couple % of the new water but it sure beats a siphon hose.
In this case(with the tank in the garage) the only thing the overflow in the sump would be able to drain into would be the street. I have considered the float switch/pump but feel its just one more expense, and pump to fail, while plumbing directly into the house lasts the life of the tank with no electricity.
Of course, Ben has to make the final desicions for what works best for him and his budget. These are all great ideas. You guys make me want to tinker with my 120 a little bit more darned it.
Ben, you may simply want to consider a mag 3 with a long hose and just pump to the nearest bathroom. That would be easiest.........
for me anyway.
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i got a kick out of this photo for some reason. It's your basic stink trap for those of you like me that didn't know what one was before today:
:lol:
Stink Trap..... "P" trap . Im not positive where its name comes from but if you turn it right, It is shaped like a"P".
That is like calling a bath fan a fart fan.. I wonder how my clients would react to that.:lol:
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SRV
Say What!!!!!!!
Hood Lift?
Ben
Don't know if you resolved your hood specs. yet, but you might want to consider looking into one of these. They are easy to adapt or lengthen with a piece of 1" steel tube stock. I used one for my hood (30" x 96" x 21" H) and it works well. Been following, project looks fun!!!!!
Rick
http://www.costco.com/Browse/Product.aspx?Prodid=11040990&search=garage&Sp=S&Mo=23&cm_re=1-_-Top_Left_Nav-_-Top_search&Nr=P_CatalogName:BC&Ns=P_Price|1||P_SignDesc1&N=0&whse=BC&Dx=mode+matchallpartial&Ntk=All&Dr=P_CatalogName:BC&Ne=4000000&D=garage&Ntt=garage&No=8&Ntx=mode+matchallpartial&Nty=1&topnav=&s=1
Problem w/ adding more bulbs onto the lighting rack.
I'm not sure I'll be able to add another set of bulbs.
the tank is 48 wide right?
(-)the wall is 9" thick so takes up about 9" of usable room unless we make the cutout for the hole big enough where the light rack could slide partway into the wall. Doable? probably. Good idea? I don't know.
(-)the overflow will be about 4" deep
(-)the lumenarcs are 19.5" deep
so that leaves us with ~ 7 3/4" on either side of the halides to play with. I just measured the width of a single power compact reflector and it is 4". Even though they are thin, I don't think I can squeeze 2 of the T5 bulbs w/ reflectors into that remaining 3 3/4" inches, can I?
I may just opt for two actinics on either side of the halides in which case a birds eye view of the lighting rack would look like so...
JR - sorry, PM box was full, sent you PM back
Ben
Don't know if you resolved your hood specs. yet, but you might want to consider looking into one of these. They are easy to adapt or lengthen with a piece of 1" steel tube stock. I used one for my hood (30" x 96" x 21" H) and it works well. Been following, project looks fun!!!!!
Rick
http://www.costco.com/Browse/Product.aspx?Prodid=11040990&search=garage&Sp=S&Mo=23&cm_re=1-_-Top_Left_Nav-_-Top_search&Nr=P_CatalogName:BC&Ns=P_Price|1||P_SignDesc1&N=0&whse=BC&Dx=mode+matchallpartial&Ntk=All&Dr=P_CatalogName:BC&Ne=4000000&D=garage&Ntt=garage&No=8&Ntx=mode+matchallpartial&Nty=1&topnav=&s=1
class clown
Well-known member
thanks Rick - hey, I'm dying to checkout the hood lifter thingy you sent, but couldn't get the link to work. I see it's at costco.com, I don't think their links work all of the time. can you post a pic, the exact name of the product, or something I can use to Id it por favor. It sounds cool.
It's not one of these items is it?
Racor Bike Hoist ($14.99)
Garage Garilla motorized electric hoist ($189):
or Racor ProStor Heavylift ($139):
It's not one of these items is it?
Racor Bike Hoist ($14.99)
Garage Garilla motorized electric hoist ($189):
or Racor ProStor Heavylift ($139):
class clown
Well-known member
Duane - got ya covered on the blue prints for the deck - I built one last year actually and found some super useful/easy to use software on trex.com (http://www.trex.com/deckdesigner/). You can use it even if you don't decide to go trex - that's what I did. we can talk about it next time you come over.
On the Water change system - I'm fine tapping into the house as long as It won't leak back. And yes, crapper pipe, fart fan, and stink trap are all awesome new plumbing terms I plan to use from here on out for fun, but probably not the best to use w/ clients :lol: :lol: :lol:
So help me throw together an added plumbing list...
some extra 1 1/2" PVC pipe
a couple extra 1 1/2" 90 degree elbows
maybe a couple extra 1 1/2" 45 degree elbows
(4) 1 1/2 ball valves
(1) 1 1/2 stink trap :lol:
(1) a threaded 4" to 1 1/2" reducer
(1) 1 1/2" bulkhead for the brute
anything else?
we can talk about it next time you come over. On the Water change system - I'm fine tapping into the house as long as It won't leak back. And yes, crapper pipe, fart fan, and stink trap are all awesome new plumbing terms I plan to use from here on out for fun, but probably not the best to use w/ clients :lol: :lol: :lol:
So help me throw together an added plumbing list...
some extra 1 1/2" PVC pipe
a couple extra 1 1/2" 90 degree elbows
maybe a couple extra 1 1/2" 45 degree elbows
(4) 1 1/2 ball valves
(1) 1 1/2 stink trap :lol:
(1) a threaded 4" to 1 1/2" reducer
(1) 1 1/2" bulkhead for the brute
anything else?
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SRV
Say What!!!!!!!
thanks Rick - hey, I'm dying to checkout the hood lifter thingy you sent, but couldn't get the link to work. I see it's at costco.com, I don't think their links work all of the time. can you post a pic, the exact name of the product, or something I can use to Id it por favor. It sounds cool.
It's not one of these items is it?
Racor Bike Hoist ($14.99)
Garage Garilla motorized electric hoist ($189):
or Racor ProStor Heavylift ($139):
Ben, Sorry about that!!!!
Yes, it is the Racor ProStor Heavylift ($139) Costco had the best price by far that I could find. Can't do pics, but I'll scam Tracy (salmanslayor) to take some pics and try to get them posted for you this weekend.
Rick
class clown
Well-known member
Ben, Sorry about that!!!!
Yes, it is the Racor ProStor Heavylift ($139) Costco had the best price by far that I could find. Can't do pics, but I'll scam Tracy (salmanslayor) to take some pics and try to get them posted for you this weekend.
Rick
sweet thx.
here is some product info on it - it's almost perfect size.
"The Heavylift allows you to load and lift heavy items to the ceiling (up to 12 ft high) without using a ladder. Simply raise and lower the 4’ x 4’ storage platform with the hand crank provided.
It provides easy storage for file boxes, outdoor furniture, lawn mowers, big tools, snow throwers, large toys, canoes, kayaks, holiday ornaments, tires, ladders lumber, third row car seats and just about anything else you can imagine. You can also use the Heavylift to store lightweight truck canopies or convertible car tops.
Includes heavy-duty steel support beams, 4’ x 4’ platform, winding axle, vinyl coated steel cable, hand crank and all mounting hardware
Max Capacity: Up to 250 lbs.
(of evenly distributed static weight)
For use with ceilings 8-12 ft. high, will lower 8 ft. from the ceiling
Tools required for installation: Stud finder, wrench, drill/driver, pencil and 4’ straight edge or chalk line
Assembly required-click here for installation instructions
Dimensions: 4' x 4'
Weight: 66 lbs.
Warranty: 1-year on all parts "
The only thing with this is that I'd have to mount the lamps underneath of it so that they were hanging underneath. that means I couldn't have them all flush. If I did a DIY version, I could have it so that all bulbs were flush. I'd love to see how Tracy hooked his up though. Parts/labor/convenience all factored in, this seems like a good & simple option.
Oh boy! Im not good at sending people to the store with plumbing parts lists. I tend to go to the plumbing dept. with a basic sketch and start throwing things in the basket. You will almost always find they (anywhere you go) either dont carry something, or are out of parts on the list You then have to imrovise and change the plan. This usually happens in front of the black pipe at the store and you ALMOST ALWAYS have to go back and get more. This is the typical remodeling way of plumbing. If I send you to the store for a 4"X4"x1 1/2" Slow turn wye and they are out you will be on the phone with me for a half an hour until we decide to use a 4"x4"x1 1/2 sanitary T instead. Now doesnt that sound like fun. We well just go together that day.
class clown
Well-known member
Yeah.. you're probably right. But that's the beauty of the internet - you can get anything and it's cheaper than Lowes or HD typically too.
I re-measured the existing crapper pipe and it's actually a 3 incher.
I'm going to loose one of the ball valves b/c they are expensive
Also, instead of using gravity feed to pump water from my brute to the sump, I think I'll just use an existing mag 7 that I'm not really using.
with that, how's this for a list:
Reducer Bushing MPT x FPT Spears schedule 40 fitting
(1) 2 inch x 1 1/2 inch Reducer Bushing MPT x FPT Spears schedule 40 fitting
(1) 1-1/2 inch Male Adapter MPT x Soc Spears BLACK
(1) 1-1/2 inch Tee Socket Spears schedule 40 BLACK PVC fitting 1 lbs
(2) 1-1/2 inch 45 degree BLACK Elbow Socket Spears schedule 40 fitting
(2) 1-1/2 inch BLACK Elbow Socket Spears schedule 40 PVC fitting
(1) NIBCO 1-1/2" P-Trap SOLV ABS DWV
(2) Slip 1.5" True Union Ball Valves (PVC)
What's all this slow Wye, sanitary T talk about anyway?
I re-measured the existing crapper pipe and it's actually a 3 incher.
I'm going to loose one of the ball valves b/c they are expensive
Also, instead of using gravity feed to pump water from my brute to the sump, I think I'll just use an existing mag 7 that I'm not really using.
with that, how's this for a list:
Reducer Bushing MPT x FPT Spears schedule 40 fitting
(1) 2 inch x 1 1/2 inch Reducer Bushing MPT x FPT Spears schedule 40 fitting
(1) 1-1/2 inch Male Adapter MPT x Soc Spears BLACK
(1) 1-1/2 inch Tee Socket Spears schedule 40 BLACK PVC fitting 1 lbs
(2) 1-1/2 inch 45 degree BLACK Elbow Socket Spears schedule 40 fitting
(2) 1-1/2 inch BLACK Elbow Socket Spears schedule 40 PVC fitting
(1) NIBCO 1-1/2" P-Trap SOLV ABS DWV
(2) Slip 1.5" True Union Ball Valves (PVC)
What's all this slow Wye, sanitary T talk about anyway?
