Live Rock Saturation?

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Boomer, nice to hear from you. I sometimes add bleach to NSW but not to raise the redox I agree that would be a little drastic. I only add it if I am collecting water in a place which I believe has too much organics. As you probably know, I did not invent this, it was Robert Straughn, in the fiftees. I really have no Idea of all the chemical reactions with it's use but when I use it all my animals seem to look better. I also treated my entire tank once with bleach (one cup to fifty gallons) At that time (before copper was invented for paracites) my tank was full of ich as most tanks were in the early seventees and I wanted to sterilize it. That was another Idea by Straughn. Some of that water is still in my reef. Also I do neutrilize it before adding anything. My tank seems to work. I have bred many fish and the corals seem very healthy. The fish die of old age and one lived 18 years until ironically enough I killed it with a Clorox accident.
Anyway, Have a great day.
Paul
 
Paul - you are teaching me quite a bit about the history of reefkeeping :).

You said in your last post that you do not add bleach to NSW to raise the redox and that would be a little drastic, however in a previous post, you pointed out that raising redox is the very reason you add bleach? Can you clarify that a bit, so I don't misunderstand your points? Wouldn't raising the redox to combat water containing high organics be the same as just raising the redox? :confused:

Paul B said:
Curtswearing, I also do use ozone and always have. As for increasing the redox, I sometimes treat NSW with bleach before adding it to the tank. The inhabitants look much better for a while after that and I can only assume it's because of the increase in the redox.
I don't know if this will help or hurt your discussion on boiling rock because it is clogged with bacteria and detritus but my rock has been in my tank for thirty years and since it was first added it has never been boiled or treated any other way except for blowing detritus off. Coraline algae still covers much of it and my nitrates are still zero so I imagine that the rock is still processing nitrates.
Paul
 
ethanriley you have some valid points also, everything biological is chemical really right?? lol that is the eternal debate between chemists and biologists. Bacteria reduction is just a matter of stealling an electron here and then adding one over thier right?? . I am having a hard time relating skimming and the algae build up though, you need to expand a bit for me.

No everything chemical is not biological unless i misunderstand there are many reactions that occur chemically without a biological catylyst. Changes in concentrations cause precipitations that are not necessarily driven by a biological agent. The relationship I was attempting to establish (however loosely LOL) is that skimming particulary good skimming essentially makes the stable environment we are tring to achieve unstable because of the rate at which it removes nutrients (Before I get barraged I AM NOT ANTI SKimming) I love my skimmer and I feel under current circumstances it is a very necessary evil. The premise I am putting forward is that skimming along with all the bad stuff it removes also removes alot of essential nutrients this I hypothesize contributes to drastic shifts in bio-available nutrients to the reef and also to Algae. It also contributes to ion transfer and precipitation of compounds


The basic problem with most of the arguements here is that folks keep thinking that all the inputs of foods/additives/salt mixes and so on get processed completely and naturally. This is not even close to the case, The majority of inputs dont get processed at all by bacteria

I agree with this 100% and this is part of the premise I was attempting to establish is that we add to replace in part what the skimmer extracts HOWEVER the rate at which we add does not always match what the skimmer takes out and as a result algae takes up the excess and we have an algae bloom shift crisis whtever you want to call it.:) Tanks that have run well for years I am sure midify their supplementation over time in orer to find the balanc again but in between Algae rears its head in some shape form.

This thread is a blast!
 
Paul

Ok, I do not have that much of an issue of it then, as I have done the same in that fashion, for the same reasons. When neutrilized, it just ends up as chloride ions. I do not want anyone getting the idea it is OK to add bleach to their tank and things will be just "ducky". And I would not be using std dechlor but something like Amquel.

BUT, you did say As for increasing the redox, I sometimes treat NSW with bleach

NSW redox (300-400mV) is usually way above any freshly made seamix (250-275 mV).

I do not mean to pop anyones bubble but that suff you pisswhine about in swimming pools and hot-tubs, that smells and burns your eyes, is NOT CHLORINE but Chloramine. When ever chlorine/bleach hits the water it just kinda seeks out ammonia and organics tied with ammonia. This reaction between chlorine and ammonia produces chloramine (CHLOR_ine +AMmoniaINE molecules. It is the chloramine gas that you smell and what hurts your eyes. A pool, freshly set-up with chlorine, has not such smell or irritation. Once Mojo gets in there and pee's in it, spills his beer or releases body chemicals, they react with the chlorine to poduce chloramine. It takes not sec. or min., for chloramine to leave a system like chlorine/bleach, but weeks. It has a very long half-life. It is the reason why almost all tap water supplies are going to chloramine. It does a better job, is less reactive and lasts longer than chlorine.

The way treament plants do this is just what you are doing with the bleach kinda'. The supply water has ammonia in it (which they add), which is then injected with chlorine when it leaves the plant. This reaction produces the amount and kind of chloramine that is produced.



Andrew

Most chemical reaction are nonbiological.

is that skimming particulary good skimming essentially makes the stable environment we are tring to achieve unstable because of the rate at which it removes nutrients

The stystem is MORE unstable without the skimmer than with the skimmer. You are overloading the system rather than unloading the system without a skimmer. On another note some systems can run fine without a skimmer, especially those with a good ref. and reef keeping.

The premise I am putting forward is that skimming along with all the bad stuff it removes also removes alot of essential nutrients this I hypothesize contributes to drastic shifts in bio-available nutrients to the reef and also to Algae


There are more nutrients in any reef tank than the system knows what to do with and many times more nutrients in a reef tank than a coral reef. That is the reason behind skimming and a ref. to reduce the nutrient load. Most tanks do not need nutrient or elemental sup, other than things like Ca, Mg, CO3--, HCO3-, etc.., BUT they sure get them. There is no such thing as a nutrient deficient reef tank.

I agree with this 100% and this is part of the premise I was attempting to establish is that we add to replace in part what the skimmer extracts HOWEVER the rate at which we add does not always match what the skimmer takes out and as a result algae takes up the excess and we have an algae bloom shift crisis whtever you want to call it.:) Tanks that have run well for years I am sure midify their supplementation over time in orer to find the balanc again but in between Algae rears its head in some shape form

Yes, for sure:D In short, the reef keeper screwed-up somewhere.
 
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Boomer said:
Once Mojo gets in there and pee's in it, spills his beer or releases body chemicals, they react with the chlorine to poduce chloramine.

ROFL! :lol: :lol: too funny.
 
Once Mojo gets in there and pee's in it, spills his beer or releases body chemicals
Just shut up and pass me another beer will ya!?!?!?

Ethan
The premise I am putting forward is that skimming along with all the bad stuff it removes also removes alot of essential nutrients this I hypothesize contributes to drastic shifts in bio-available nutrients to the reef and also to Algae. It also contributes to ion transfer and precipitation of compounds
Can you elaborate on exactly what reactions you feel are going on ??


Mike
 
Can you elaborate on exactly what reactions you feel are going on ??

I was going to ask that but decided to wait to see if you would :). I would like a detailed explanation of this "ion transfer" and precip of x, y and z
 
Boomer said:
Can you elaborate on exactly what reactions you feel are going on ??

I was going to ask that but decided to wait to see if you would :). I would like a detailed explanation of this "ion transfer" and precip of x, y and z

Isn't that all spelled out in the Sharper Image ad on their air purifier:D
 
Boomer (and Nikki) I even had to read a few times what I wrote and I can see where the missunderstanding comes from. I do not add Clorox to raise the redox. I add it to neutralize any organics and red tide that happen to be in my New York City water but as a consequence of that the redox increases and temporarilly makes the inhabitants look better. You see Boomer you are older than the cretaceous and I am exactly your age so my mind often works slower than my typing. I did add Clorox to "good" water a few times as an experiment and it does make everything "seem" healthier.

Nikki if you are interested in the history of the salt hobby there was an article published about my tank since way before anyone kept salt water.
Have a great day.
Paul
http://reefcentral.com/forums/attachment.php?s=&postid=2127079
 
Paul B said:
I did add Clorox to "good" water a few times as an experiment and it does make everything "seem" healthier.

Paul,

How have you been? I knew your tank was that old, but I thought you might have inherited it. :badgrin:

I'm afraid my dead Koi would not agree with your assisment of the aquatic friendliness of chloramines. The whole pond of 16" fish went belly up in minutes when my water dept. over dosed and I added less than a couple percent of the pond volume in fresh water. The oxygen transfer system in fish can shut down quickly from even a little of the stuff.:cry:
 
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LDR
The oxygen transfer system in fish can shut down quickly from even a little of the stuff.

It is more on the order of buring out the gills. It also goes right ito their bloodstream. Some of those chloamines in water break into ammonia and raise the levels. Even worse yet is that std dechlor acting on chloramines only breaks apart the molecule, leaving behind free chloirne and ammonia. A double dosage of std dechlor will neutralize the chlorine to chloride ions but still leaves behind the ammonia.

Chloramine, unlike chlorine, is easily moved into a fishs blood, where it reacts with ion and causes brown blood (methemoglobinemia), which can not pick up much oxygen. It also attacks the kidneys
 
Idrhawke, who would I have inherited my reef from? Moses.
I thought everyone here started their tanks in the sixtees.
Boomer, does the link work? It works for me. I can always mail Straughn's book to Nikki but then Nikki would not learn how I embelished on his techniques. I don't think he used asphalt for live rock much, as a matter of fact, he didn't use live rock for anything. I also have about ten issues of "The Marine Aquarist" in black and white, (1969) a wealth of information about dominoes.
Have a great night.
Paul
 
It is a link to a HTML doc which will not work in Explorer. You can copy and paste it into Opera or Netscape and save it or open it there. I'll see it it works in those by just clicking on your link. :) Ok, it works fine for me in those browsers. Maybe I have something turned off in Explorer :lol:.
 
Paul just a note on your tank since I plan to emulate it with the "algae filter". The pressure you put on our rock as a filter is significantly reduced by the algae filter you said so ourself in a previous thread which is what so intrigued me in the first place. You noted you had no algae growth in the main tank because of the abundant growth on the concrete. I would venture to say that the presence of the algae filter even lessens the skim muck that you have. To me your tank represents exactly what I have been talking about achieving "balance" Thanks for your help and experience. I am starting to build my own variation and I will send you pictures when I am done. Because I don't have the width on the main tank that you do I was thinking of putting it over my refugium and letting the overflow run across it into the refugium. For that matter I could pipe my skimmer and phosban over it as well. this will slow the flow into the refugium and reoxygenate on the reverse photo cycle I work. Thanks Everybody! Its kinda funny the two Bahamian Boys closest to the ocean getting so much info from so many land locked "dudes and dudettes".
 
There are more nutrients in any reef tank than the system knows what to do with and many times more nutrients in a reef tank than a coral reef. That is the reason behind skimming and a ref. to reduce the nutrient load. Most tanks do not need nutrient or elemental sup, other than things like Ca, Mg, CO3--, HCO3-, etc.., BUT they sure get them. There is no such thing as a nutrient deficient reef tank.

Boomer what in your opinion based on this statement are the elements we should be supplementing? I know this outside the topic but give me a quick answer.
 
Boomer what in your opinion based on this statement are the elements we should be supplementing? I know this outside the topic but give me a quick answer.

None really, accept in some cases iron for planted tanks or reg.. Most sup are in excess or are removed at lighting speed and not needed. I do not buy all these sup some add to their tanks and never have, neither does Randy. Borate, Strontium, Iodine and things like Silica are more of a personnel thing if needed. I have no probelm with sups if someone has a kit to test for them and they are in with normal parameters. Normal water changes take care of most of them :)


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