My 70 gallon build

[HUNTER01975]

Some of you have seen some of my posted pics as i have been putting my tank set up together. So I was told a thread would be good. so here we go..

tank and sump bought 2cd hand.. coming out of the closet..lol

tank and sump with stand/table from CL

stand with stain.

with water but no skimmer

with skimmer

with skins

with doors and skins

stained and sump shelf stained minus the amazon box.

power installed


thats all I got for now for pics but will post more as things come along.

 

[mfinn]

Looking good some far.
Just a suggestion, but can you mount the power strip closer to the front?
Might make it a little easier to get to.

 

[eww]

Looking good some far.
Just a suggestion, but can you mount the power strip closer to the front?
Might make it a little easier to get to.

+1 to what Martin said. Looks good Hunter. I like the two tone stain contrast.

Did you install a solid panel on the back like you did the sides? The doors alone wont stop it from racking side to side very well.

 

[HUNTER01975]

I toyed around with it and decided that I would rather have that area in front open for storage and what not and as well on keeping the plugs out in the open air as mush as possible to avoid moister issues.

no panel on the back as the sump pokes out the back a bit. I do want to attach the stand to the wall as well.. my cabinet guy that did the skins and the doors for says that it should not twist I talked to him about all that and he says with the legs the way they are mounted and the extra we put in it should be more than fine. And he even used the work racking so i am guessing he understands what you all mean.

 

[HUNTER01975]

Here is a pic of the leg mounts so you all can get a better view.. table is upside down in this pic. not the camera. haha

 

[TJL]

Definitely coming together nicely now. It will be nice to see it finally get wet soon. On the back paneling you wouldn't need to have it fully covered ie; you could install a partial panel at the the top of maybe 6-8" (even arched around/above sump tank) that would work well in keeping it plumb. Anyhow keep up the good work.

Cheers, Todd

 

[DTECH07]

Man thats some nice work! I can wait to see the finished setup:razz:

 

[mfinn]

Definitely coming together nicely now. It will be nice to see it finally get wet soon. On the back paneling you wouldn't need to have it fully covered ie; you could install a partial panel at the the top of maybe 6-8" (even arched around/above sump tank) that would work well in keeping it plumb. Anyhow keep up the good work.

Cheers, Todd

+1

That extra (small) panel will also give you a spot to mount different types of clamps. Return lines, cables, small shelf, etc.

 

[HUNTER01975]

It does have a 4 inch wide piece that is bolted in between the legs that goes all the way across front and back..


ps.. I did get a black back ground and black lock line....

 

[Katchupoy]

wow good work there Hunter... amazing... but since you are very handy with wood...

May i suggest you create a dummy wall on one of the side and put your switch box inside it. this way, you can use it to put all your electronics too and is protected from the water inside .

Similar to this one....

 

[HUNTER01975]

wow good work there Hunter... amazing... but since you are very handy with wood...

May i suggest you create a dummy wall on one of the side and put your switch box inside it. this way, you can use it to put all your electronics too and is protected from the water inside .

Similar to this one....

Let me state in this thread that I had a buddy do the skins and doors.. and i did a lot of learning.. I wish I could claim them but i can not..all I did was stain it.

i wish i had room to do that sort of thing but i dont my sump is to long and keeping the skins between the legs for strength..but that is a super good idea.. it never even came to my mind of doing a little sub section.

 

[HUNTER01975]

Here is what I did last night put tank on stand. Installed all the pumps and heaters. Cut down the hoses that were to long for one last test run. Still have to do the black back ground which will prob be installed sunday. I was going to get it drilled and do a coast to coast but that plan ended up almost killing the hobby when i talked to the wife on what I wanted to do and she saw the extra cost.(lol). So we are going to just move on with what we have and give it run. And then will prob add some reactors as we go.

 

[mfinn]

I would rethink the part about not drilling. I'm sure there are enough people in the area that could find the absolute cheapest way to do it.

 

[HUNTER01975]

Free would have to be the way to go.. And I don't expect people to drill my tank and build me a over flow at no charge..

So it is what it is.. I am sure it will be fine lots of people have done what I am doing and still have what I am setting up.

 

[TJL]

BARTER! I'm sure there is something that you do which could be exchanged for drilling your tank just in the pool of RF members in the South end. J-tubes or any other over the top drain will malfunction at some point which most of us can attest to... unfortunately. I have a couple different diamond hole-saws and a drill press and would be happy to help.... just a bit North. FYI if you decide to drill out for overflows make sure you have bulkheads in hand first!

Cheers, Todd

 

[HUNTER01975]

well my barter list would be..

cigars, cb/ham radio,

I have a few nice barber pole cigars and few nub's, monti, and some randoms I could trade. valve around $8-15 per cigar

I have rci 2950 mobile radio that does 26-30hz works really good. I get really good reports. valve around $200.00

I have a cobra 29lx digital face which is like brand new I hooked it up 2 times but never mounted in my truck. This is not the old school 29 classic. Valve $100.00

I have a cobra 29 classic as well works really good but the meter does not light up. And it has a 636 astatic chrome mic on it.
valve $50.00

So if anyone is interested in trading hole drilling and over flow building hit me up.

Keep in mind the retail valve of drilling and building the coast to coast is about 160.00 bucks at a shop..So please be fair..

 

[mfinn]

BARTER! I'm sure there is something that you do which could be exchanged for drilling your tank just in the pool of RF members in the South end. J-tubes or any other over the top drain will malfunction at some point which most of us can attest to... unfortunately. I have a couple different diamond hole-saws and a drill press and would be happy to help.... just a bit North. FYI if you decide to drill out for overflows make sure you have bulkheads in hand first!

Cheers, Todd

+1

This exactly what I mean.

 

[zachrabbit15]

Hello I have a few hole saws if you need your tank drilled. 1.5" for 3/4" bulkheads and 1.75" for 1" bulkheads, like Todd said make sure you have bulkheads in hand. I have found that 1" bulkheads vary in hole size by up to a half inch. Shoot me a little gas money and I can come down and help you out.

 

[HUNTER01975]

thanks Zachrabbit...

I think I am going to hold off on drilling tho. here are my thoughts on why.. please feel free to give input to this..

1- I have all the stuff for current set up and it all works well after testing.

2- Risk in drilling tank.

3- Spending the money to do the drilling and built in over flow on reactor and a ATO system and tank.

I am really thinking about a ATO system after doing some reading and also some testing and seeing the water loss of the tank. I lose about 3/4 of a gallon a day roughly and that is in the garage so when it is in the house that will prob be increased.

 

[marsh4211]

You can go to glass-holes.com they have an overflow kit that comes with the drill bit bulkheads and the overflow box. they offer deferent size overflows. the biggest is 1500 gph for 100.00.