New DIY LED build
- Thread starter mojoreef
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I've been sitting on some information that may help...Not all Cree Cool Whites are the same... Bins really mater. Here is a comparison of a warmer vs cooler Bin of the XP-G R5 Cool White along with PAR comparisons of optics.
The test fixture was placed on top of the acrylic top 30" tall and is 12 XP-G R5 driven at 1050mA The Photo is with Carclo Wide Optics.
Here is Crees XP Binning Chart and as you can see The Cool White have quite the range...
Also, here is a pic without optics
Here is our reaction to the results...
Its a lot more complicated than apples vs oranges but growing "tomatoes" is not too different from growing Sarcophyton elegans. Except one can pay the rent growing "tomatoes"....<br><br>The real trick is getting the pigments and tank to look their best.
Bill
The test fixture was placed on top of the acrylic top 30" tall and is 12 XP-G R5 driven at 1050mA The Photo is with Carclo Wide Optics.
Here is Crees XP Binning Chart and as you can see The Cool White have quite the range...
Also, here is a pic without optics
Here is our reaction to the results...
Its a lot more complicated than apples vs oranges but growing "tomatoes" is not too different from growing Sarcophyton elegans. Except one can pay the rent growing "tomatoes"....<br><br>The real trick is getting the pigments and tank to look their best.
Bill
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E
eww
Guest
So what are the last two pics showing? What makes the difference of 59 to 324?
Thanks for the respectful, informed conversation, folks! (and for putting up with my ramblings).
For anyone interested in a turn-key LED solution by an American company that does things a little unconventionally; check out Kessil's offerings. I'm sure one of our sponsors stocks them. If you're like me, though; it's all about the journey
For anyone interested in a turn-key LED solution by an American company that does things a little unconventionally; check out Kessil's offerings. I'm sure one of our sponsors stocks them. If you're like me, though; it's all about the journey
The 59 is 12 XP-G Cool White without optics. The 324 is with Carclo Ripple Wide.
Given previous PAR Testing I was surprised by the out come. Here is their chart that may explain increase.
For me Optics are a "Force Multiplier" They increase the PAR (focus the light were we want it) and reduce the spill (focus the light away from were we dont want it...glass/overflows).
Bill
Guerry
Well-known member
Welcome Bill, nice to see you here and sure you can give all of us some great input. Still flying or just doing the LED thing now?
Hey Bill great to see you jump into the conversation. A couple of questions for ya. One is what was the setting you used on the Apogee and the other is can you dig a little deeper on the bin thing for us?? as in a little deeper explaination for the folks.
Mojo
Mojo
The setting was on electric. For comparison a sunny day in Chicago at noon gave me a reading of 1505 PAR.
As far as the Bins the Cree Cool White has a range of 5-8K. Each production run is measured and assigned a Bin. The above picture shows the extreme variation Bins 0A and 3B
If you simply order Cool White your ordering "a box of chocolates...you don't know what your going to get". The middle and warmer Bins seem more common.
Bill
As far as the Bins the Cree Cool White has a range of 5-8K. Each production run is measured and assigned a Bin. The above picture shows the extreme variation Bins 0A and 3B
If you simply order Cool White your ordering "a box of chocolates...you don't know what your going to get". The middle and warmer Bins seem more common.
Bill
So say when someone orders from a DIY vendor are the bins qualified, as is someone down the line labeling the k value for the different bins??
On the apogee you need to change the setting to sunlight for a more accurate reading, apogee does not measure blue light waves very well. Thier is a math formula for percentage but the sunlight setting is more then close enough.
Mojo
On the apogee you need to change the setting to sunlight for a more accurate reading, apogee does not measure blue light waves very well. Thier is a math formula for percentage but the sunlight setting is more then close enough.
Mojo
Most vendors sell you what they have in stock which can change from month to month. The reputable ones will let you know what bins those are. Only a few will sell a specific Bin and to do so costs more.
As far as the PAR meter I've always used that setting because thats what it defaults to. Will try the other setting.
Bill
As far as the PAR meter I've always used that setting because thats what it defaults to. Will try the other setting.
Bill
Yea the readings you are getting from the electrical settings on that meter are incorrect/false. Dana did study on them and then apogee came back and agreed. Here is a link
http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2005/7/reviewmojo
http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2005/7/reviewmojo
TJL
copod
WELCOME Bill, nice to have you on board. Thank you for the additional input on this thread, there is so much differing info/opinion on this quickly evolving industry and the more educated we are the better. I'll have lots of qestions on my new build and definitely open for input as it comes together here shortly.
Cheers, Todd
P.S. Bill, how long has your system been running with LED's ???
Cheers, Todd
P.S. Bill, how long has your system been running with LED's ???
1guydude
Well-known member
i just got a evolution fixture that uses more 1w leds than the 3w cree fixture and bulbs i have now....anyone think thats okay?
They will grow your corals but their thermal management is limited. The Heatsink is small and I've heard of people complaining about noisy fans. If the fans fail the LEDs will soon follow. This was noted by Evolution in a different post when someone wanted to pull the fans to reduce noise. Thermal management is key to LED longevity. The cooler you you keep the LEDs the better.
As far as the 1 watt leds go as long as the spectrum is good, and the Evolution has good spectrum, you will like the results. The major difference is in efficiency. For the same PAR the Cree XP series will use less electricity and generate less heat. A DIY XP fixture will cost about the same initially but in the long run save you more money and produce more light.
There is a reason why companies are like Eshine are switching over the the Cree XP.
Bill
Thanks I used this link Product Review: A Comparison of Two Quantum Meters - Li-Cor v. Apogee — Advanced Aquarist | Aquarist Magazine and Blog the other was broken.
Looks like the Electric reads slightly lower than the Sun setting. Looks like I'm getting more light than advertised.
Bill
Somethings Fishy
Well-known member
did you do rapid led? just got done with a build and cant say enough good things about there customer service!
Guerry
Well-known member
not to speak out of place but I think Bill prefers to use ReefLedLighs.com they also have great customer service and very willing to help with any problem you may have
