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Mike2112

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 10, 2012
Messages
60
Location
Coeur D'Alene, ID
Hello everyone,

I posted earlier in the week in the introduction section. Brief synopsis...I have been Tropical fish keeping for too many years with three tanks in the house. My wife and I have decided to take the plunge into the world of Salt Water Aquariums. We purchased a used 120 gallon glass tank that we are going to make into a FOWLR setup. The tank is not drilled and I do not possess the tools, nor the skill and nerves to drill 1/2 in glass. I believe it is also tempered on both the bottom and the sides; therefore it will be not be drilled. I located a purchased a 40g breeder tank from PetCo during their $1 per gallon tank sale; just required a short drive across the state line to Spokane Valley, WA after the recommendation of leena2674. The 40g breeder is going to serve as a sump. I have been doing a lot of reading today and stumbled across this site Melevsreef.com | Acrylic Sumps & Refugiums I read most of the articles posted and decided that I will follow the design of my sump on the Model F Sump Melevsreef.com | Acrylic Sumps & Refugiums I am going to try the bottom design with the Bubble Tower.

I have not selected on the skimmer as of yet, but that will be the goal with in the next few days. I have tentatively divided the tank into 9" X 17.5" X 10" for both the Refugium and Skimmer compartments and 16.5" X 17.5" X 9" for the return compartment. I am planning on placing the heaters in the return compartment. Depending upon the total circulation that is recommended (10 to 15 times the volume of the tank per hour) I need a min drain diameter of 1.43" and a min linear overflow of 18" up to min drain diam = 1.75" and overflow of 27". I have read the arguments for a dual drain overflow and I can see the reason behind it to help eliminate possible flooding. The overflow(s) will need to be on the back (wall side) of the tank. Time for the first question: Should I do this with two separate overflows or one larger central overflow? The LR formation in the tank will probably be two columns with some minor formations in between them. I am planning on about 2" of live sand across the bottom. The center overflow is easier to generate overflow area and not as much of an eye soar, as compared to the separate overflows; however I could use the columns to hide them.

Plumbing the sump should not be much of a problem, however I could not get the calculator or the mag drive links to work so I don't know what size of mag drive to get. The head height from bottom of sump to lip of display tank is 54" or 4.5 feet. By the size of the drain line in the recommended circulation I am moving approximately 500 gph max flow rate out of the overflow, so I cannot determine the size of mag drive to pump the water out of the sump. I can plumb the feedback line back into the return compartment if I get too big of a pump. Any help here would be great to get the right size of return pump.

Powerheads: I will be using two Rio 1400's on the bottom of the tank aimed at the LR formations to push water through the rock for good movement through them. I will be using 3 Koralia 700 gph heads near the top of the tank. One almost Top Dead Center of the tank flowing out and the other two on the sides near the top pointing slightly up and out toward the front to generate currents across the top and assist with total currents in the tank.

Heaters: I will be running 2 200W heaters to get me close to the 420W recommendation (3W per gallon --120 in tank + 20ish in sump). The submerged return pump will generate some heat, about 3-4W worth. Should I make one of the heaters a 250W?

Filter/Skimmer: This is where I need the most assistance in. I will have approximately 100 lbs of LR in the tank and another 40 lbs of LS (live sand) across the bottom. I will have approximately 10 lbs of LS in the refugium? (that sound right) and about 10 lbs of LR chunks in the Bubble Tower of the sump. I know this is on the low side of the recommended 2 lbs per gallon, but LR is one of the most expensive parts of my setup, and I do not have my mother's bank account. I do have a lead on a fair amount of dead rock that I can work on when I start the cycling of the tank. I have not seen it so I do not know the exact amount I can get. The protein skimmer is the part that I need the most input on. I was going to skip the sump and do a dual Bak Pak skimmer, but that has changed. I want to run the skimmer section of the sump around 9 to 10 inches of water. The top of the tank gives me about 11 inches of clearance between it and the bottom of the display tank so maintenance room is not an issue. I have learned that in this hobby bigger is better...99% of the time; so any help with skimmers would be great...lets not break the bank. Looking at a budget of 200 to 300 dollars.

Lighting: I am looking at a 48 inch fixture that cannot be wider than 14 1/2 inches. I would like to run T5 HO bulbs, two white and two actinics. I am thinking of getting a pulsing xenia but not much other reef critters such as coral and worms, etc. Suggestions in this department would be great too. Again about the same budget as the skimmer.

That is about it.

Thank you in advance for your input and suggestions.

-Mike
 
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For overflows, check out: CPR AQUATIC, INC - CS Overflows

Some (and only some) recommended skimmer brands (hugely differs based on opinion) are Bubble Magus, Hydor, Reef Dynamics... there are so many out there, I picked up a Coralife skimmer C-H-E-A-P when I set up my tank. It's not a great skimmer, and I will one day upgrade, but it has done a reasonable job for me thus far. Granted, you should buy as much skimmer for the money as you can afford. That's not to say you can't buy used or upgrade later. Also keep an eye out for used equipment. With regard to skimmers, there are not very many 'moving parts' to break, and even if it's dirty, a little vinegar will make it look new. With the dimensions you have planned for your sump, the grand majority of skimmers will fit provided you don't go completely crazy and buy a monster. :) You have a bit of time before a skimmer is an absolute necessity for your tank, so feel free to take your time and shop around.
 
Here are a few skimmers that I have found online:

Eshopps in sump PSK150
Coralife Super Skimmer CD 22942
CoralVue Reef Octopus NWB 150 and the Reef Octopus 6

These are all in-sump skimmers and have a foot print small enough for the sump.

I will look at the other brands you mentioned Leena.

-Mike
 
id heavily concider an swc 160 small footprint and a bang for youre buck imo
 
Mike,

welcome to RF!!!

IMO the skimmer is one of the most important devices you can make...buy the best darn skimmer u can get for your money...
Before you purchase ANY skimmer, think of how many fish u plan to buy and then determine how much bioload you will have to remove from your tank.

I would agree with senji that there are better choices out there to make...SWC, Warner Marine, ATB come to mind.

I would get a skimmer that is rated for at least 200 gallon.

Since you are new to the saltwater scene, I would consider purchasing the following book:

http://www.amazon.com/The-Conscient...&qid=1342445159&sr=8-1&keywords=robert+fenner

I have this book and after 18 years in the hobby still refer to this book. I actually read it yesterday on some butterflies I may be purchasing.

First half of book talks about tank selection, water parameters, parasites, medication, aquascaping, etc.; the second half of the book talks about the different genuses of fish and fish selection.
 
Thanks for the info. Most of the skimmers that I have been looking at are rated for around 150 gallon due to tank and sump capacity, so I will expand the search to 200 gallon rated skimmers.
 
Thanks for the info.  Most of the skimmers that I have been looking at are rated for around 150 gallon due to tank and sump capacity, so I will expand the search to 200 gallon rated skimmers. Also, I know what fish we will be placing into the aquarium Is there a way to calculate bioload?
 
Thanks for the info. *Most of the skimmers that I have been looking at are rated for around 150 gallon due to tank and sump capacity, so I will expand the search to 200 gallon rated skimmers. Also, I know what fish we will be placing into the aquarium Is there a way to calculate bioload?

The bio load depends on the max length of the fish as well as their rate of metabolism. Some fish, like gobies, need relatively less food to stay healthy due to their low metabolism, and the amount of swimming they do. Tangs on the other hand swim around all day, consume a lot more energy, and have digestive tracts that are short and designed for frequent grazing. Six inches of tang is going to have a much higher bio-load then 6 inches of gobies, so you can't go off fish length alone. If you post your proposed fish list we will be able to give you an idea of if it is too much.
 
Mike, since you are going mostly FOWLR and some of the fish you are interested in are on the larger side, assume your bioload will be on the "high" end. There really isn't a specific way to calculate bioload, but here are a couple of things to consider: Adult size of fish, (inches of fish per gallon ratio... not a feasible way to stock an aquarium or choose livestock, but it gives an idea), type and quantity of feeding. More frequent feedings in your case will decrease any aggression (twice per day-ish), and tangs/angels are grazers, they eat almost constantly (you will likely have some type of grazing food like seaweed available frequently in your tank). All of those things play a role. Additionally, consider what you would like ideally as a maintenance schedule. Do you want to do weekly water changes? Every 2 weeks? Generally speaking, a larger skimmer will allow less frequent water changes.
My standard answer in this hobby is always 'it depends' due to the number of factors involved. I commend you for doing all the research, reading, and asking questions. I know you will have a very successful tank. :)
 
When designing your sump, you'll need to have an idea of what skimmer you'll end up with, for a couple of reasons.

1. Footprint of skimmer will determine the size of the skimmer section of sump.
2. This is important...each skimmer works "best" in a specific depth of water. Some skimmers work best in 9-11" of water while some skimmers work best in 13" of water, etc. When you design your sump, you'll need to know what depth you want, for the skimmer section. In order to know this, you'll need to have an idea of which skimmer to use.

I'd HIGHLY recommend SWC Cone Skimmers. They are amazing. I run SWC on all 3 of my tanks. While most skimmers have a "recommended bio-load" or size of tank, that's GROSSLY exagerated, SWC Skimmers are believed to have a much more accurate "rating level," that can actually be believed. SWC Skimmers are also not all that expensive, compared to "comparible" skimmers and SWC typically have a fairly compact footprint.
 
Thanks Leena and returnofsid.

The nice thing is that the sump is still in the planning stage. Also, I just got a lead on a free skimmer. I will get that later today, then if the skimmer is good enough to handle my setup, I will have the skimmer and can do the final adjustments to the sump and get that going.

It is great that everyone in here so free in sharing information.

Btw NC2WA, the book is in the mail. Will get it in the next two days or so.

-Mike
 
Got the skimmer, it is a Red Sea Berlin Triple pass Protein Skimmer. I contacted Red Sea and they emailed me the manual for it. I am trying to determine if it is the Venturi or Turbo version. The skimmer is just the tower with out the pump so I guess I can make it into what I want. The manual says that it is suitable for a 220 gallon system. I just need to know what size of pump I should put on it. I am still not sure if I am going to use it or put it on Craigslist.
 
Yeah, speaking with Amber at Red Sea, if it is a Turbo set up I will have to get a pump from them, if it is a Venturi set up, I can use any pump. Anyone of you use this skimmer? If so, please tell me how to identify mine. I have the Skimmer itself and the connector part with the threads on the intake. There is an inlet opening 1 13/16 " across (hole is 7/16" across) on the top of the intake before it goes into the skimmer. Will try to take a pic and attach it.

-Mike
 
Here is the picture of the base of the skimmer. Looking at the intake portion that I described. From what I was told by the previous owner, he initially attached a brass fitting into the top intake and attached an air pump while having a water pump plumbed to the main fitting. He did this since his water pump was failing and not producing enough air in the mixture to produce the desired bubbles and foam.

I am a bit leary in trying to use this skimmer if I have to do too much jury-rigging on the unit. Might just drop the $ to get a new Hydor or Eshopps skimmer and know that the unit is ready to go. I don't know.
 

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I am looking to spend $200 to $300. I would like to stay closer to the 200 mark since I need an overflow setup to feed the sump since the tank is not drilled and the glass (on the bottom at least) is tempered. I am now plugging through the Installation & Operation Manual that Red Sea sent to me. I am going to try and figure this out.
 
not to be out of line, but the hydor and eshopps i would bag as ideas...you can do better than this....SWC is in this price range and is a great skimmer

if you want an answer, send a PM to skimmy...he is the skimmer guru on the forum...he has tested just about every skimmer out there and he WILL give you an honest direct opinion..if it is trash, he will tell you soo..so be prepared. :)

sorry to beat this to death, but the choice of skimmer IMO makes or breaks the succesfulness of the tank....if you get a good skimmer, you can sit back and enjoy it, if you pick the incorrect one, you will be forever cleaning the algae from it and not able to enjoy it...
 
swc swc swc swc swc swc its the skimmer he reccomended to me for on a budget
 
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