plumbing ideas please

[marlinmero]

i need help shutting my new tank up. it a 95 gallon corner tank with built in over flow in back. at the bottome of the overflow is a bulkhead of course. i have a 1 inch adapter screwed into it with a piece of 1 inch pvc coming up with two 90's hooked to it. "none of it glued" i had the 90's hooked together where it was pointing down hoping to avoid the suction sound. that just cause a loud repeated flushing. so i point it upwards and now im getting the flushing sound. any idea's what i can do?

 

[tat2z_21]

I installed a small ball valve into the top of the cap allowing a controlled amount of air through the down pipe. Getting rid of the toilet bowl gurgle.

 

[TheKraken]

Look up Durso or Stockman. You need a T, 90*, and a cap to build the above.

 

[gothunder3022]

Here's a good link for the Durso DIY...Make Your Own Durso Standpipe

Tat2z...that ball valve is a really cool idea...do you have to tweak it much?

 

[Katchupoy]

and dont forget to research about j pipe on tehe bottom/sump

 

[tat2z_21]

Set it and forget it. I close it all the way until the syphon gets started and slowly open it until you can here a little bit of air flow through it. You can adjust the height of the water in the overflows with this contraption as well. Bring it up higher and all of the cascading waterfall sounds go away take it down lower and you get the soft trickling effect. My tank is completely silent with those hooked up. Thanks to ThatGUY559 he is the one that showed me.

 

[user 2204]

Very cool idea tat2z_21 I believe I'd seen something similar to that before.

 

[marlinmero]

awesome thanks, guess im going to lowes tomorrow. and whats this j pipe thing at the bottom?

 

[Frankie]

From the sound of it, all you need is what Tat showed you. This should solve the problem.
Well done guys helping a fellow reefer

 

[TheKraken]

awesome thanks, guess im going to lowes tomorrow. and whats this j pipe thing at the bottom?

I am even cheaper than the above. I sand down the part where the cap sits so that it can turn. Then I drill a hole in the side (1/4" a good start) so that I can rotate the cap to control the opening size. I do not glue on the wet side so that everything can be cleaned.

A j-tube is also called a P trap. Look under a sink to see an example. Like the Durso, you create a inversion where the cascading flow down has to collect and separate out air so that the sound from falling water is trapped. Be careful and be prepared to play with geometry to get an example that is quiet, efficient, and purges air in a reasonable manger. It is possible to go from a trickle noise to a "glub, glub". The durso and P-Trap are great for moderate flow but can be fragile at the extreme of flow rates FYI.

 

[Dieselbreath]

I started using the 1/4" ball valve about 4yrs ago on my 120. It does seem to work very well. I modified it many times till it worked right. The only issue I ever had was a bit of salt deposit that would have to be cleaned out ever now and again. It stopped all of my flushing effect!!

 

[ReefLogic]

On my 72g bowfront I swapped all the PVC for Flexline and my flushing sound vanished. Now on my 150 I get very annoyed by the sound of the water entering my sump....how do I shut that up?

 

[justforfun]

I have a aga 75gal I grow away all there plumbing stuff .....it its for a 20 " tall ..then cut a 1" sch 40 piece 15" long install in overflow drain. Cut 3/4" piece 18.5" install where. There return was......put a gate valve on the 1". Take pipe 2" below water level....3/4" 2 " above water level( will be for emergyncy. Overflow..run new return line up the back with a sea swirl....
.....start flow and make siphon completely silent
My opinion

 

[Myteemouse]

if you have two of those overflows in the same overflow box.. just switch to a herbie method and it will solve ALL your problems!!