Problem with QT tank and Tang
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Brian,
In regards to just your first post (I have not read the others):
Remove the live rock. Follow these guidelines for setting up and running a QT: http://www.reefsanctuary.com/forums.../23584-fish-quarantine-process-step-step.html. All the details you need are in that first post.
The removed live rock must not go back into your display tank as it can bring with it any parasites it may have been exposed to. Put it into separate quarantine for no less than 6 weeks at 78F with light.
The fish had Marine Ich in the pet store. You just didn't see or know it at that time. Please do the reading.
In regards to just your first post (I have not read the others):
Remove the live rock. Follow these guidelines for setting up and running a QT: http://www.reefsanctuary.com/forums.../23584-fish-quarantine-process-step-step.html. All the details you need are in that first post.
The removed live rock must not go back into your display tank as it can bring with it any parasites it may have been exposed to. Put it into separate quarantine for no less than 6 weeks at 78F with light.
No. You need to get a better understanding of this parasite. More to read: http://www.reefsanctuary.com/forums/fish-diseases-treatments/23132-marine-ich-myths-facts.html.
The fish had Marine Ich in the pet store. You just didn't see or know it at that time. Please do the reading.
Lee, wouldn't an overnight soak in RO/DI water kill the Ich on the live rock?
Herefishyfishy
Smart Bass
Michael, if the dip was kind enough to keep the shrooms and sponge alive, me thinks the mature trophonts and maturing tomites survived
Quite possibly. Those are some tough shrooms and even tougher sponges!!
Herefishyfishy
Smart Bass
Lee, the freshwater dip he performed was short enough and mild enough to keep mushrooms and sponges on it alive. If the dip allowed the inverts on the rock to live, I suspect the Ich would also still be present.
That's what's confusing us. The 4 pounds of live rock was soaked in RO/DI water, overnight. Some mushroom corals and sponges appear to have survived. If they survived, would the parasite also have a chance of surviving? I should have stated my question to you better, Lee.
Bosco83
Well-known member
Lets clear this up a bit there were about 25-30 shrooms on this rock and one survived. There are also two small yellow sponges that seem to be ok, there are also two small feather duster type worms that are alive. I will be really mad if I go through all of this hypersalinity for 6 weeks and he gets ich as soon as he goes in the new tank lol.
LOL I don't blame you!! The thing is, I just can't see anything at all surviving that long of an RO/DI bath...lol.
Bosco83
Well-known member
Lee I did read the article and it was very informative, and I posted that question before hand. I understand now that he had ich (wich isn't event the same as freshwater ich) the whole time and that it just wasn't showing because he wasn't stressed out. I now understand that a qt tank is to induce a little stress to show up any parasites a fish may have and then treat them before they go into the display tank. I even told that to the shop owner after reading that and he thought that was pretty interesting and he had not heard that before.
Brian
Brian
Brian,
In regards to just your first post (I have not read the others):
Remove the live rock. Follow these guidelines for setting up and running a QT: http://www.reefsanctuary.com/forums.../23584-fish-quarantine-process-step-step.html. All the details you need are in that first post.
The removed live rock must not go back into your display tank as it can bring with it any parasites it may have been exposed to. Put it into separate quarantine for no less than 6 weeks at 78F with light.
No. You need to get a better understanding of this parasite. More to read: http://www.reefsanctuary.com/forums/fish-diseases-treatments/23132-marine-ich-myths-facts.html.
The fish had Marine Ich in the pet store. You just didn't see or know it at that time. Please do the reading.
Bosco83
Well-known member
My Tang seems to be doing really good he eats like a horse and isn't that scared of me anymore, in fact he will swim to the surface when I walk slowly up to the tank. He is showing signs of ich again though even though he has been at 1.009 salinity for the last week? He showed signs of it the second day in the qt but every since I started the hypo treatment I haven't seen any signs of ich now they are showing again? I have been changing the water every two days about 5 gallons at a time. Is this normal or do I need to do something else?
Thanks,
Brian
Thanks,
Brian
Spots may come and go the first few days or even a week during hyposalinity. But at some early point in the treatment, there should be absolutely no spots -- if the parasite is Marine Ich.
Verify that you are holding the specific gravity at the right level. Are you using a refractometer? Is the refractometer set for salt water? Has it been calibrated to sea water? (NOTE: "salt water" and "sea water" as used here are NOT the same.)
If you are using the right kind of refractometer and the water is proper and if it is the Marine Ich parasite, then all you do is wait.
If you suspect you don't have the right sp. gr. then now is the time to correct that. If you suspect you may not be dealing with Marine Ich, you need to post us some photos for us to see what it looks like.
Verify that you are holding the specific gravity at the right level. Are you using a refractometer? Is the refractometer set for salt water? Has it been calibrated to sea water? (NOTE: "salt water" and "sea water" as used here are NOT the same.)
If you are using the right kind of refractometer and the water is proper and if it is the Marine Ich parasite, then all you do is wait.
If you suspect you don't have the right sp. gr. then now is the time to correct that. If you suspect you may not be dealing with Marine Ich, you need to post us some photos for us to see what it looks like.
Bosco83
Well-known member
I will just keep monitoring him but I do believe it is MI. I don't have a refractometer but I will have it checked by Wil at Reef Mystique with his to make sure my hydrometer is accurate, it is one that goes lower than most as I also keep a brackish tank at 1.009.
If the spots still show after a few days I will try and take a picture I just don't think they would show up very easily.
Brian
gotfish
Well-known member
Lee, how can you say his hydrometer is not reliable? If you'd like, you can come over to my house and check my hydrometer and my refractometer. You'll see they both measure the same and the hydrometer always reads the same as long as all the bubbles are off the arm, i.e. using it correctly. To just claim something is incorrect without seeing it work doesn't seem right.
Bosco83
Well-known member
I use two different kinds of hydrometers and they both read the same thing one floats in the water and one is the swing arm kind. I clean the swing arm one with fresh ro/di after every use and tap on it to make sure there are no bubbles. The other one I just let float in my sump tank to monitor how much the salinity changes for evaporation just to make sure I'm topping off enough. I don't doubt that a refractometer is easier to use and probably a little more precise I just haven't needed one before.
Brian
The refractometer and hydrometer work on two separate principles. In short, one -- the hydrometer requires some subjectivity -- an estimate of density. The refractometer doesn't. A refractometer made for salt water, calibrated to sea water is the only instrument readily available to the hobbyist that is an accurate measurement of salinity by refraction. A proper refractometer will perform the test better than the proper hydrometer.
There is a chance that the hydrometer reads well enough, but over the long range, it can't. It relies on water density vs. refraction. For the hyposaline treatment, refractometer is the best tool.
Knowing how the two function and that they function differently, it's easy for me to make that statement. You may understand more if you understand salinity, refraction, density, and specific gravity and their differences. There are some tutorials on the Internet on these terms.
There is a chance that the hydrometer reads well enough, but over the long range, it can't. It relies on water density vs. refraction. For the hyposaline treatment, refractometer is the best tool.
Knowing how the two function and that they function differently, it's easy for me to make that statement. You may understand more if you understand salinity, refraction, density, and specific gravity and their differences. There are some tutorials on the Internet on these terms.
Herefishyfishy
Smart Bass
One more factor to consider; refractomers self-calibrate automatically for temperature.
