Problem with QT tank and Tang

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One more factor to consider; refractometers self-calibrate automatically for temperature.

Well I planned on buying one anyway so maybe now would be a good time. Do the ones for around 30-60 work better than a hydrometer?

I am not in a hurry to put him in the main tank so if I really haven't started my treatment I do have enough patience to wait until I get a refractometer and make sure I keep it right at 1.009.

Thanks for the help :)

Brian
 
Those refractometers are good. Just be sure it is a refractometer that is specific for measuring salt water. They don't make refractometers for our hobby to measure sea water, but they do make them to measure salt water.
 
Those refractometers are good. Just be sure it is a refractometer that is specific for measuring salt water. They don't make refractometers for our hobby to measure sea water, but they do make them to measure salt water.

I'm off oday and I am calling around trying to fing one right now!
 
Ok Lee I give you props! I got a refractometer today came home tested my salinity and it was 1.012. Two hydrometers going into the garbage lol. Ok the refractometers and the hydrometers read the same in my normal tank at 1.025 but the hydrometer's both of them are reading wrong at lower salinity.

As of this morning I can't see any signs of ich on him and I just lowered the salinity to 1.009

I also bought some Methelyne Blue just incase because if he shows ich on his body again I'm just going to start the whole process over. I will freshwater dip with the colander method and then put him in all fresh qt water with the same parameters that it is at now just with new water.

Thanks for the help!:D
Brian
 
Pics added

Here are a few pictures to try and show what it looks like. I'm pretty sure this is M.I. he is really hard to get pictures of and the spots don't show up that great. So it seems like during the day the spots go away but then in the evening I can see them again. The ich doesn't look near as bad as a lot of the pictures I have seen and really are mostly on the right side of the fish. I just hate how they come and go.

011-1.jpg


021-1.jpg


025.jpg
 
All this time was 'lost.'

I want you to now move the specific gravity to a 1.008 reading and hold it there. Give no freshwater dips or baths. Just follow the hyposalinity treatment guidelines closely without deviations, pls.
 
All this time was 'lost.'

I want you to now move the specific gravity to a 1.008 reading and hold it there. Give no freshwater dips or baths. Just follow the hyposalinity treatment guidelines closely without deviations, pls.

Well it's been almost 24 hours and no more signs of ich if he still looks good tomorrow I'll put him in the display tank j/k ;)

Treatment is going good I did a 5 gallon water change today adjusted salinity(1.008), ph, and temp to the same as the qt. Hopefully we won't see anymore ich on him. I'll report back in a week to let you know how things are going.

Thanks again,
Brian
 
Lee big problems! I have been keeping the water at 1.008 and changing five gallons every other day feeding normal. Yesterday I noticed he was hiding a lot and didn't eat as well as normal. I got home today and he looks like he has some kind of fungus on him he is just kinda cloudy white all over and swimming striaght up and down. :eek: I don't know what to do I called a local store and he said I could try a fresh water dip but it's probably too late to do anything. So all I have done for now is I added a some methlene blue to hopefully help him breath a little easier for now.

Please help,
Brian
 
I very much need a photo for this.

Are you sure you've been controlling temp, sp. gr. and pH when you do the water change? Any chance a recent water change was contaminated?

Perform another water change as soon as possible, but change out at least 80% of the water. BUT be sure you are following the proper procedure for this change, AND be sure your source water and salt are not contaminated or have any questionable quality.
 
I very much need a photo for this.

Are you sure you've been controlling temp, sp. gr. and pH when you do the water change? Any chance a recent water change was contaminated?

Perform another water change as soon as possible, but change out at least 80% of the water. BUT be sure you are following the proper procedure for this change, AND be sure your source water and salt are not contaminated or have any questionable quality.


Sorry Lee I lost him I'm really upset I really feel like I failed. :| I have been doing 5 gallon water changes ever other day I prepare the water in a container over night I match the ph and temp and salinity. I control the ph by adding super buffer d-kh controlling the temp is really easy because his tank is staying at 80 and the container with my 250 gallon per hour pump running all day stays at 80. The water I have been using goes straight from my ro/di water container that reads 0 tds, and I have been using Kent marine salt. I have tested freshly made salt water before and everything was really good.

The guy I talked to from A Red Sea Aquarium said that maybe doing 5 gallon water changes was too much for a 20 gallon tank and starting a mini cycle?

I just don't understand because he was doing really good he always ate really well from day one, he wasn't even scared of me when I came in the room.

My Fiance says we can get another one but we want to try and figure out what went wrong first. I almost don't feel right getting another one I'm worried I might kill another one.

Brian
 
Water changes, no matter how large, won't start a cycle. The beneficial bacteria that control a cycle, don't live in the water column. They live on hard surfaces, such as rock, sand, glass, equipment...etc.

I sure hope you're able to figure out what happened!! Sorry to hear of the loss!!!
 
Water changes, no matter how large, won't start a cycle. The beneficial bacteria that control a cycle, don't live in the water column. They live on hard surfaces, such as rock, sand, glass, equipment...etc.

I sure hope you're able to figure out what happened!! Sorry to hear of the loss!!!


Thanks that clears some of it up. I think that it wasn't as sudden as just last night and today, I did see a very small discoleration on him a few days ago but it's really hard to tell when you don't know exactly what you are looking for. I didn't see any more ich so I just thought he was looking normal.

Brian
 
Sorry for the loss. :cry: My hands are tied by not having seen what you've seen.

If a water change is done properly, it can only help, never harm the fish. You'll need to listen to your LFS with a lot of skepticism.

I'm unsure what is in the buffer control you used, so I can't support its use. Keep in mind that those water controls were meant to be used in salt water of relatively normal sp. gr. and not during a hyposalinity treatment. Some are not suitable as pH adjusters since they are in fact 'buffering compounds' rather than just pH adjusters.

I think you're okay in attempting another fish. Just don't alter any treatment procedure or process. Time was lost with a mis-treatment. Had you confirmed it didn't work, we might have gone on the assumption it wasn't Marine Ich. Still. . .hard to say.

Don't be discouraged. Before the next fish do a thorough cleaning of the QT and QT equipment AND let it dry out completely for at least 48 hours before you use it again. Regarding cleaning, you should read this: Cleaning Procedures. Please remember not to change the instructions but to follow them closely. :)

Also, to be on the conservative side, read this link and actually print it out to use it when choosing your next fish: Should I buy that fish?.

 
Sorry for the loss. :cry: My hands are tied by not having seen what you've seen.

If a water change is done properly, it can only help, never harm the fish. You'll need to listen to your LFS with a lot of skepticism.

I'm unsure what is in the buffer control you used, so I can't support its use. Keep in mind that those water controls were meant to be used in salt water of relatively normal sp. gr. and not during a hyposalinity treatment. Some are not suitable as pH adjusters since they are in fact 'buffering compounds' rather than just pH adjusters.

I think you're okay in attempting another fish. Just don't alter any treatment procedure or process. Time was lost with a mis-treatment. Had you confirmed it didn't work, we might have gone on the assumption it wasn't Marine Ich. Still. . .hard to say.

Don't be discouraged. Before the next fish do a thorough cleaning of the QT and QT equipment AND let it dry out completely for at least 48 hours before you use it again. Regarding cleaning, you should read this: Cleaning Procedures. Please remember not to change the instructions but to follow them closely. :)

Also, to be on the conservative side, read this link and actually print it out to use it when choosing your next fish: Should I buy that fish?.


Thanks Lee I appreciate the help, I will use something else to buffer the ph with the next one. I have already read through how to clean th QT tank if the fish dies from a disease but I will read it again to brush up. I think the fish that I chose was pretty healthy in the store. I know he had been there for atleast a few weeks and I watched him eat and swim around the whole tank (probably 125 gallons) happily. I will read through your write up again though.

Thanks,
Brian
 
Lee I have another question for you. So in my display tank I have two false perc's, one six-line wrasse, one YWG, one golden head goby, and a bi color blenny. Everyone seems happy and healthy and I have had them all for about four months. But one of my first fish I added to the tank was another false perc that died and he may have had ich. This was the first fish that I added to the tank and he died very suddenly and I only saw a few spots on him and they would kind of come and go and he died the next day.

I have never QT any of these fish before my lfs told me I didn't have to and I didn't really learn about the qt process until I started reading about Tangs. So now after doing all this reading about ich I'm a little concerned that I may have ich living in my tank even though I have never seen it on any other fish besides some spots on the false perc that died months ago. Is there anything I should do to try and find out or don't sweat it too much and just make sure to qt all my new fish from now on?

Brian
 
If the one fish did have Marine Ich, then all the fish are to be considered infected. A low level infection of Marine Ich can remain well hidden from the unaided human eye.

There are two approaches to this. One is very stressful to the fishes and that is to do nothing about the fish already there. Quarantine all new fish to be sure they are not infected. However, when the new,healthy fish goes into the DT there is a chance the parasite will bloom into a much larger infection, possibly killing some of the fish that were already there (as well as the new addition).

The above cycle will continue for about a year. However, you could just stop adding fish for a whole year and that will pretty much make the Marine Ich lose its efficacy. We found that Marine Ich will pretty much become benign after about 10-12 months. BUT there must be no new Marine Ich introduced during that time. After that year, it is safe again to add fish that have been quarantined. Only now there would not be an outbreak of disease.

The other alternative is to take out all the fish, treat them, let the tank go fallow for 8 weeks (no fish), then return the fish to the tank when they are cured and the tank is ready.

Keep in mind that fish are not 'happy' nor sad. Their health is determined by skin scrapings, fin clips, gill clips, feces examination, as well as visual evidence. We are not likely able to tell a healthy fish just by looking at it, yet we can go by some visual clues. What we do know is that from visual signs, we know the fish has a problem. We just can't say the opposite. :D
 
If the one fish did have Marine Ich, then all the fish are to be considered infected. A low level infection of Marine Ich can remain well hidden from the unaided human eye.

There are two approaches to this. One is very stressful to the fishes and that is to do nothing about the fish already there. Quarantine all new fish to be sure they are not infected. However, when the new,healthy fish goes into the DT there is a chance the parasite will bloom into a much larger infection, possibly killing some of the fish that were already there (as well as the new addition).

The above cycle will continue for about a year. However, you could just stop adding fish for a whole year and that will pretty much make the Marine Ich lose its efficacy. We found that Marine Ich will pretty much become benign after about 10-12 months. BUT there must be no new Marine Ich introduced during that time. After that year, it is safe again to add fish that have been quarantined. Only now there would not be an outbreak of disease.

The other alternative is to take out all the fish, treat them, let the tank go fallow for 8 weeks (no fish), then return the fish to the tank when they are cured and the tank is ready.

Keep in mind that fish are not 'happy' nor sad. Their health is determined by skin scrapings, fin clips, gill clips, feces examination, as well as visual evidence. We are not likely able to tell a healthy fish just by looking at it, yet we can go by some visual clues. What we do know is that from visual signs, we know the fish has a problem. We just can't say the opposite. :D

So my idea was which I have mentioned one time before early on in this thread was to remove one fish and qt it now. I was thinking take one of my clown fish out and put it in the qt tank and to see if he would then show signs of ich because it induces stress. Then if he does have ich I could remove the remaining fish and put them in like a 55 gallon tank with just sand (for my golden head goby) and some hiding places and do a hyposalinity treatment for 8 weeks?

Brian
 
Not sure if you're asking a question or not. Treat all fish as soon as possible. The one fish idea is a waste of time IF the tank had Marine Ich in it.
 

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