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Thanks Krish...didnt recognize you with the new Avatar....:)

The problem I'm thinking I might have is placement of my anemone rock...there is going to an H.magnifica anemone in the tank and while they like flow, that might be too much for it...cause I want to put it in the middle of the right side, pretty much where the Stream is pointing....

Good thing is that I can easily adjust the Stream if its a real issue.

Nick
 
Thanks Krish...didnt recognize you with the new Avatar....


Yeah...I'm undercover:p

The problem I'm thinking I might have is placement of my anemone rock...there is going to an H.magnifica anemone in the tank and while they like flow, that might be too much for it...cause I want to put it in the middle of the right side, pretty much where the Stream is pointing....

Good thing is that I can easily adjust the Stream if its a real issue.

Nick

Definately man...And also, your rock layout will play a major role as well re-directing flow and so forth so you'll never know until it's all setup. Atleast you aren't stuck with the dilemna of where to place the streams. Some people will scratch their heads and lose sleep on that one(LOL). Good luck man....Looking forward to seeing the progress:)
 
Is it easy to set up? I dont have any controllers right now, but I havent really needed one either....so its not something I've really thought much about.

Nick

yeah.. pretty easy.. If you figured out that plumbing with all the crazy angles, you'd definately be able to figure out the neptune programming. there is a neptune forum on RC which is excellent for asking programing and "how do I do this" type questions. I can help you too.

My recomendation for the tunzes.. sell them to me at a ridiculously low price. You don't need 'em right? :lol: :lol: no, in all seriousness, I like how you have them b/c they are out of the main view and krish is right, it'll create some pretty neat bouncing wave action when they are both on at the same time. The only thing I'm worried about is what you'll do for flow behind the rockwork. For me.. I didn't plan it out behind the rock work and ended up with some dead spots so I added 2 powerheads and dropped an old rio return pump in behind there to give it some flow..:lol: in hindsight, i wish I planned it out a little better b/c having the cords of the PH visible is kinda ugly.
 
Water is in the tank right now...but I'm having some issues...

Sanddunes-1.JPG


The yellow areas are where there is no sand due to water flow...
Also, due to the design of the WavySea, and the current mounting bracket I have, I need to use a longer return on the WavySea to keep a wall of water from blowing over the front lip of the tank. This longer return sits deeper into the tank, which means it drains out more water in a back siphon event caused by a power shortage. This means I need to to keep the max water level in the sump lower than I'd like to accomodate any water back siphoned in. The fun part comes in where the minimum water level is to prevent microbubbles from the return....I've got about an inch between the two and that's about what the tank currently evaporates on a daily basis.

I called Premium Aquatics and ordered a new larger mounting bracket for the WavySea so I can mount it on the edge of my aquarium as opposed to the centerbrace which sits lower in the tank. This will also move the WavySea back a few inches. I'm hoping between the two, I wont have as much water back siphon into the sump, and I wont get a wave over the front of the tank.

I also ordered some loc-line parts so I can mod the return on the WavySea. They dont make an adapter for loc-line, but the WavySea is made to accept plumbing. So I can get a Loc-line 3/4 inch male pipe thread connector and attach it to a 1" PVC Female Adapter. I can then connect a loc-line Y to the WavySea's return and spread the flow out more....hopefully no longer disturbing the sand at the bottom of the tank...

The new parts will most likely arrive Friday or Saturday...so i should know by then what I can do.

Failing that, it looks like I'll be getting rid of the sand.....somehow.

I also need to find a way to get ahold of some Thorite. I would like to use this to cover some 1/2 " pvc. I want to use the pvc to make rock racks, to support my rockwork and keep it off the sand. Allegedly, the Thorite is safe to use in aquariums, (most public aquariums have been using it for years...also see "The Reef Aquarium Vol 3" (Chapt 9) for references...but more importantly...it doesnt have the lengthy cure time that normal home made rock mixes require. Homemade rocks using the GARF recipe, (or any other recipe using cement) typically need anywhere from 2 weeks to 3 months curing time where they continuously leach out an alkaline solution. This alkaline solution will raise tank pH significantly to a point of causing problems...
So if I can get ahold of some Thorite, which isnt supposed to need this curing time, I might be able to get my rock racks made, and get something nice in the tank sooner. If I cant...welll...then I wait for normal rock recipes to cure.

Nick
 
03-23-2007

Okay, the new bracket arrived today for the WavySea.

The black one is the standard bracket that comes with the WavySea. The clear acrylic one is the 1.25 inch large bracket.

WavySea_Brackets.JPG


The standard bracket wouldnt fit over the lip of the tank, so it had to be mounted on the center brace....which put the WavySea lower in the water.

The WavySea attaches to the bracket by a mounting plate...sorry no pics at the moment.

Its tough to see in the pic above, but the large bracket actually has two sets of mounting plate holes, where as the standard bracket only has one set of holes. The large bracket allows you to raise or lower the mounting plate about half an inch. I chose the higher set of mounting plate holes to raise the WavySea as high as possible. In addition, mounting the WavySea to the back of the tank as opposed to the centerbrace raised the WavySea higher also.

I also modified the output of the WavySea by glueing a 3/4 inch Loc-line Y to the end of it.

WavySea_Modded_output.JPG


I didnt want to do this, but trying to use the PVC female adapter I mentioned earlier didnt work out so well. I used PVC glue to attach the Loc-line to the output. Its not the strongest bond in the world, but it will hold as long as I dont really torque on it...

The difference in the flow is amazing. Instead of a jetstream of 750 gph I now have two fans blowing about 375 gph each which disturbs the sand very little. After all was said and done, I went ahead and turned off the return pump to see how much water now backsiphoned into the sump. It wound up siphoning alot less water than before, I can now add 3 more inches of water to my sump and still have 1.5 inches from the top of the sump. So that worked out well.

I moved the sand back to some semblance of normal, (covered up the huge empty open areas of cutting board) and will leave it like that over night to see
how much moves now.

I was also worried about the jet of water coming from the stock output as I will be moving my H.magnifica anemone to this tank. These anemone's really like high flow, but this was a bit much IMO...

While I'm on the subject of the H.magnifica, I want to pass something on to anyone reading this thread...

Sounds stupid, (as in DUH!) but anemone's can pass bacterial infections to each other.

I've had the H.magnifica for a year as of 03-10-07. Late last year, I bought another H.mag from an online vendor and it came in looking like crap. These anemone's ship worse than most other anemones, (which already ship poorly to begin with). I was concerned about it so I hurried up and placed it in the tank, where it started looking better. However, it never really recovered from shipping stress and died. And, as a parting gift, it also infected my healthy H.mag with whatever it had.

I didnt think the sick anemone could infect my healthy anemone in a healthy system...WRONG.

I waited and hoped for a long while, but the H.mag wasnt getting better at all...finally, at the advice of a LFS that dips all its incoming anemones in doxycycline for 8-12 hours before introducing them to the display tanks, I tried a dip. I used 1 pill (100mgs) in a large specimen container, (anemone is smaller), placed that in my main tank for temp control, and added an airstone. (LFS guy uses 1 pill ,100 mgs, in a 5 gallon bucket with a Maxi jet mini behind egg crate to protect the anemones from wandering...)
The anemone slimed pretty badly at first, the airstone turned the slime into a skimmer. After 6 hours, I did a 100% water change in the container, added a new 100mg pill of dox, and let it sit for another 15 hours in the container.

That was almost two weeks ago. The anemone looks better than it has in the last two months, (still not great and still back where it should be), but I have seen it eat a little, its mouth is tightening up, and its tentacles are more inflated and coloring up again.

I debated long and hard before dipping, but looked at it this way...it was definately going to die if I didnt do something, so I really had nothing to lose.

After two weeks, the anemone now looks like it will survive, but its still not back to where it was previously.

I read about using the Doxycycline on RC. On a thread there, Joe Yaiullo posted this:

Used to have bad luck with them and other anemones till we quaranteened them which consisted of the following procedure. Without it, we were 0/8 on new Heteractis magnifica (now the accepted name, until they decide to change it again)
Upon arrival, all bag water is removed so you're left with a bag full of almost only anemone. The anemone is then added directly to a bucket of good quality tank water and aerated. If the water fouls or gets too much mucus, then discard that water. The anemone is then added to a 5 gallon bucket of good quality tank water which has been previously mixed with 10mg/gal of doxycycline. Most capsules available are 50mg, so a 5gal bucket works nicely. Water is gently aerated for 24 hrs mindful of keeping temp acceptable, which is done by floating the bucket in a sump or larger container of heated water, you don't want the heater in with the anemone. After 24 hrs, remove most of the water and refill with another 5 gal of good quality tank water with 10mg/gal of doxycycline. Leave for another 24hr then remove the anemone to a tank that is large enough to keep them for what could be a long time.
With this procedure, we were 6/8 and that was over 2 years ago and they're still here, with the largest now almost 30" in diameter.
As with any medication, especially anti biotics care must be taken not to overuse.
Joe

Hobby Experience: 30 years, Reefs since 1987
Current Tanks: 20,000 gallon 30' x 14' x 6.5' deep

Joe runs the Atlantis Marine World Reef Aquarium. He has also set up an anemone specific reeftank for Atlantis Marine World...so he's got some experiance with reeftanks and anemones.

After my experiance with the sick H.mag infecting my healthy H.mag...no anemone's will go into my display tank without being dipped in Doxycycline.

Nick
 
Bummer on the sand issue...That's one of the reasons why I never use any(LOL) Glad to see you are making progress though with the wavy sea mod, the drain to the sump not back siphoning too much etc. It will all come together man I'm sure.:)
 
I've never used sand before so I thought I'd give it a shot...
Having the cutting board there underneath means I can siphon up the sand if I decide to at a later date and not have to worry about pulling everything out of the tank...

Nick
 
Good idea...I had just over 100x turnover rate in my 38gal so sand wasn't an option if I ever wanted it. Sand is a cool look, but I like crazy flow to help keep a clean tank so I opt not to use it. Hope it works out well for you though...Definately more natural looking and also gives you more livestock options:)
 
03-25-2007

I think The WavySea is working out okay the way it is currently.

There is a small bare spot in the front left corner of the tank now as opposed to the large ones on the right and center. The center front areas is pushed back into a dune of sorts....but nothing that is a deal breaker IMO. Rock work placed in the tank will change flow patterns also...so its currently a wait and see type deal.

I'm kinda in a holding pattern right now...
I found some Thorite, and ordered it from Ace Hardware....they will ship free to a nearby store, or charge me $20.00 to bring it to my doorstep. Call me a tightwad, but for $20 I'll drive 15 minutes away to go pick it up.

I plan on using the Thorite to try and coat the PVC rock support racks I want to build to keep the rocks solid and stable. Currently in my 58, the left side rockwork is really just carefully stacked, and it bothers me. I'd rather have the rocks in a stable support system with no worries if I later decide to remove the sand for whatever reason. I tried using Pond Foam for the first attempt.....
that didnt work so well. Actually, to be fair, you had no idea there was PVC under the foam, and it looked pretty interesting....but it was so buoyant that there was absolutely no way to get it under water. So I'll try the Thorite and see what happens.

On Monday, (When they open again) I will go to Regal Plastic and purchase some 3/8 inch acrylic rod to drill through some leftover base rock I have to secure it and make some smaller supports, keeping it off the sand. I used this in my 58 gallon to make one large rock from 4 smaller ones. It worked very well , and I have to point out the small areas where the acrylic rod is visible to just about everybody...

Tonight, I threw bioballs into the sump of my 58 gallon tank. I plan on using these to speed up the cycling process in the 120. I dont know how many I chucked in there, but it was a significant amount.

List of things to do:

Buy acrylic rod
Use Thorite on rock racks for camoflage
build light canopy and figure out how I'm going to hang it/support it.

On my current tank, I can raise and lower the lights to accomodate for new bulbs and/or new corals. I like being able to do that, and want to try and do that here....I just dont know if that will be feasible. The stand's height kinda eats up the available space.

Ideally, I'd like to be able to drill holes through the floor joists to accomodate some sort of pipe/pole/dowel to mount the canopy on. I just dont know how safe that is...

Could I possibly get away with drilling 3/4 to 1 inch holes in the floor joists above the tank? They are 2x10's...I'm not talking multiple holes in the same joist...just series of holes through several joists, to allow a pipe to slide through for raising/lowering the lights.

Nick
 
Nick, I drilled my rocks & used all plastic Tye-wraps to build rocks that are open & stable, really worked out better than I thought, I was going to try the rods but I'm a tightwad myself:D
 
The rods are inexpensive....something like $5 for a 6 foot section of rod. In fact, if I hadnt lost them when we moved to our house from the apartment, I wouldnt have to buy more rods...I still had a bunch left over from the first $20 I spent buying them for the 58 gallon.

Nick
 
03-26-07

Got the acrylic rod today and made two good size rocks into one larger more stable rock.

Here are the two rocks I started with.

Two_rocks1.JPG


And here's what it looks like now.

Two_rocks2.JPG


I shot this with the flash which caused the acrylic rod to shine like that....wont do it in the tank.
Here are two back to back shots at about the same angle....one w/ flash, one w/o

Two_rocks3.JPG


Two_rocks4_front_.JPG


Right side...you can see where the rod was inserted

Two_rocks5_right_side_.JPG


Rear

Two_rocks6_rear_.JPG


Left side
Two_rocks7_left_.JPG


Top
Two_rocks8_top_.JPG


The rods all but disappear when inside the tank and any sort of algae starts to grow. I just used regular masonry drill bits and drilled through the rock. This is pretty porous and IMO, soft rock. I have some nice pieces of rock that are denser and harder, and they dont drill as well....in fact, they have a tendancy to shatter and break when drilled. From what I've been able to determine by screwing around with some less attractive/less usable pieces, is that drilling holes partially through the dense rock is doable, but as soon as the drill bit begins to pass through the back side of the rock, it shatters.
I also have a Lava rock that is almost impossible to drill through....so for these pieces, I'm waiting for the Thorite to make the racks...

Gonna measure out the canopy and try to get the frame built tonight.

Nick
 
Nice work Nick, did I miss it on how you attach the Rods? DO you epoxy them together or just cram them together? Again nice work!
 
Thanks guys.

Scott,
No epoxy, just drilled and inserted the rods. I drilled the holes through a couple of different angles to help give it strength, and prevent wobbling. They're anchored pretty solid.

Elmo, thats the rock the H.mag is going to be transplanted to. Got it set up in an area with high random flow, and no where near anything else to climb on and wander around. BTW, Divers Den (LiveAquaria) has a purple S.gigantea for sale right now...looks decent from the photo's...might want to check it out if your still looking for one..
http://www.liveaquaria.com/diversden/ItemDisplay.cfm?ddid=18295&siteid=20 if the link doesnt work, its been sold...

Nick
 
All I kept saying to myself when you showed the Pic was "Just Drill it, yeah baby" LOL couldnt help myself.


LOL...I was a little nervous about drilling this out this time for some reason....even though I've done it before w/ no worries. I guess its cause these two fit perfectly and looked good when they were together....

Still waiting on the Thorite...when it comes, I'll have more rock stuff together and working...I've got another idea for some rock's I have that wont drill.

Nick
 

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