I am in a position to purchase a nice system for a really great price.....
as a newbie, I dont know all the pro's n con's of these larger systems when speaking in terms of plumbing, closed loop vs. not, and larger Acrylic Tanks and being drilled on Bottm for closed loop.
I know Opinions Vary...but is there anything that really stands out to make note of?
is a bottom drilled tank a big red flag? I know closed loops are favored by some but not by others. same as Acrylic vs. Glass
what I am looking at is a 260G 84x24x30 with WELL built stand and canopy, 2 Reef flo darts and a coralife turbo-sea included
2 low profile overflows that plumb to a 2 sump system
the bottom has 2 drains, and 2 returns of closed loop to provide flow to bottom and rock, and 2 returns that enter at top that Y off to 2 loc lines.
System is without Skimmer and calc reactor (sold) and I am opting out from the LONG 3X MH T-5 , LED combo unit, for probably LED's
I wont mention price here, but a fool would pass on this deal, the pumps and sumps alone cost as much new, as I can acquire this system LOL
Any HUGE disadvantages to the above described system that would alter my opinion?
Couple of thoughts....
Bigger systems are more stable, but do cost more to maintain.
As you can see by the cost of the system you're looking to buy...the resale value of this is hobby significantly lower than buying new.
I've been in this hobby for quite awhile and have designed a few systems, and everyone if done, I've realized things on everyone of them could be improved upon.
A friend of mine here locally has a 1000 gallon system that currently costs him $600 month in electrical use, and we have some of the cheapest electricity in the US here in StL. He's revamping his system to reduce that.
I dont think LED's are quite at the point where you can adequately light a 30 inch deep aquarium and keep SPS and clams at the bottom yet. I do think that T-5's are there however.
For your system, I would strongly suggest you look at a T5 set up for your system. The electrical usage will be less than a comparable MH system. However, look into what its going to cost you to replace bulbs. You will be replacing more bulbs at one time than with MH's, however, the bulbs are less expensive and last longer.
Pumps....Reeflo pumps tend to be among the least costly pumps to run, however, if your system requires two pumps to run, find out what you'll need to run on just one pump. Then buy two of those, (one for instant back up).
My friend here hass just finished a new plumbing manifold to run his system off of one larger pump...skimmer, reactor(s), returns, etc...with that, he's been able to take a few smaller feed pumps off line, thereby reducing his electrical usage.
I would not make any plumbing beyond what you already have drilled, permanent...meaning, dont buy a new sump and drill holes in it. If you ever decide to upgrade or downgrade your plumbing for whatever reason, you're stuck with what you've drilled holes in. Instead go over the top for sump returns and intakes...this way, if you change pumps, all you need to do is re-do that part, not the entire system.
For plumbing, go at least 1/4 inch larger on ball valves & unions than the holes drilled into your tank. for example, if you have 1 inch holes, buy 1.25 inch ball valves and unions and reduce them down to 1 inch. The internals of the ball valves and unions is 1.4 inch smaller than their rated size this causes back pressure and will reduce flow through your plumbing. back pressure and reduced flow means increased pump electrical usage and less flow.
For flow inside the tank, I would strongly reccomend going with some sort of low wattage powerhead, (Tunze stream or MP40 etc) and have extra's on hand for replacement for cleaning and or any maintenance issues.
Think modularity and the ability to change things out as fast as possible as easy as possible. Murphy's Law of reefing...things will go wrong and will require your undivided attention when you can least afford the time or money.
Nick
