Water chemistry advice please

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badger126

Zoanthid Addict
Joined
Dec 10, 2009
Messages
128
Location
Idaho Falls, Idaho
So I've been a freshwater guy for a long time and I recently inherited a bunch of saltwater equipment - live rock, lights, skimmer, filter, fish, even the water!
So I took everything and threw it in my 29 gallon tank. The live rock came with a complete covering of green hair algae, which I partially scrubbed and for the rest I have inundated with a plethora of snail of various species and a tuxedo urchin. I've had it for bit more than a week and the algae is mostly gone, my water tests read 0 ammonias, 0 nitrites, 40 nitrates.
I believe that the water that I got from the original tank was high in nitrates originally because the owner had stopped taking care of it. I'm sure that the dying/digested algae is also a contributor. I did one 25% water change a couple of days after I got everything set up so that I could remove some of the algae/nitrates. I know that you aren't supposed to do as many water changes on salt water tanks, but am I ok doing another change in order to reduce the nitrate levels until I get a 'fuge set up?
 
I believe as long as the water is mixed, airated and brought up to temperature there is no harm in doing another water change. I personally have never heard the advice that you are not supposed to do as many water changes in salt water tanks. In fact with smaller salt water tanks I feel like frequent, weekly, water changes are a necessity.
 
Everyone I've talked to tells me that I shouldn't be doing water changes in a tank that I set up a week ago. And they say even when it's cycled no more than like 20% every 2 weeks.....I don't understand it. Freshwater tells me that the more fresh water in your system the better.
 
When first cycling a tank many people do not do water changes but since you have livestock in there already it would be beneficial for the livestock to do water changes to maintain better water conditions.

I believe just like you learned with freshwater regular water changes are key. I see no harm in changing the water again, many people do daily water changes when attempting to recover from tank mishaps.
 
You are fine doing another change I did a 10% change every week on my 40g and i do about a gallon every 4 days on my 11g sometimes less. Just make sure the temps up on the water your using as well as the salinity being the same. Also make sure you mix your salt with ro/di water to maintain purity.
 
Thanks very much for the input. As soon as my nitrates are lower how soon would you guys suggest putting in some corals or anemones? I have a coralife 2x55w PC light is this enough for LPS or SPS corals?
 
I would wait at least 6 months before trying any anemones. You want a stable and aged system for that. You could probably start with some softies within 1-2 months after your cycle is complete. Zoanthids, mushrooms, maybe a leather coral.
You may want to switch to a T5 fixture or a halide if you eventually want to have SPS or even the anemone. I had mine under PC bulbs for some time but until I moved it to the new tank with halide lighting, the color was just not that vibrant. It has since colored up nicely.
 
I haven't really had a cycle though since I used all my water/rock/filter/etc from an established aquarium - right? I mean my water is clear except for nitrates, what else am I looking for to signal readyness?
 
The high nitrates is the begining of the end of a cycle. I would say get your nitrates below 5 and you are probably ready. Undetectable would be ideal especially if you want to try the anemone.
Did you reuse the sand that came with the tank? That my be a source of your high nitrates.
 
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How many watts per gallon am I looking at for SPS or LPS? There's the setup that I have now, but I'm thinking of moving the saltwater to my 55gallon with 4/96w PCs. Lots more light, but I wanna know what I need to have to keep at least LPS corals.
 
You don't need to use live sand, that is a gimmick if you are talking about the stuff that is in the bags at the LFS. Your sand will become live eventually anyway. PC lights are not very good lights for coral. As stated above you would be better off going with Metal Halide or T5 HO lights. A 55 with 4x96W PC's will probably support softies and some LPS if they are placed high enough in the tank. If you want to try SPS with PC of ANY type you will not be happy with the color of the coral. A six bulb T5HO fixture or a fixture with 250 Watt halides would be great on your 55.
 
ya I wish.....trying to do things on a budget right now but in the future maybe I can upgrade. I bet a retrofit kit would work well in that light I have
 
...PC lights are not very good lights for coral. As stated above you would be better off going with Metal Halide or T5 HO lights. A 55 with 4x96W PC's will probably support softies and some LPS if they are placed high enough in the tank. If you want to try SPS with PC of ANY type you will not be happy with the color of the coral...

Granted... there are better sources of light for coral than PC, but depending on what you want to keep (even including some types of SPS), they can support a nice little reef. Here's 2x 96W over a 46g...

DSC_2162-1.jpg


Yeah... you're limited in what you can keep with PC, but you can still have a nice reef with them.
 
Granted... there are better sources of light for coral than PC, but depending on what you want to keep (even including some types of SPS), they can support a nice little reef. Here's 2x 96W over a 46g...

DSC_2162-1.jpg


Yeah... you're limited in what you can keep with PC, but you can still have a nice reef with them.

Good looking reef Kurt. Did you get a new camera? I don't think I've ever seen you post pics before. What is that coral at the top with the clearner shrimp under it?

Jason
 
Haha glad to be here. Like I said I've had freshwater for a long time. I own the 50 gallon, but I put my freshwater fish on craigslist and a lady called me wanting to trade her 75 gallon for my fish. yay!
 
Here's another chemistry question...my alkalinity is off the charts. I might have ran the test wrong, but I'm almost positive its upwards above 15 dKH. is this gonna be a bad thing?
 

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