How long have you had these lights and are the VHO daylight (kelvin?) or actinic?
I changed my bulbs one moth ago.
2 Metal Halide Bulbs 175w / 6500K
2 VHO Fluorescent Tubes (Blue – True actinic phosphor peaks at 420nm) 36â€/95w
How far off the water are the lights raised?
The distance between my favia and Frog Coral from the MHB is 18†--- Do you think is enough distance? Unfortunately I Don’t have very much space in the bottom of my tank.. I changed the favia location five minute ago. I put it near to the bottom.
I read that favia suffer from recession and jelly-type infections….So proper feeding and water flow limits these problems
If the bleaching is mainly the favia and turbinaria only, I would suspect they are getting too much light. Commonly these types of species do not need high light and are better placed on the substrate/shaded if using high output lights like MH. They will also not appreciate the intense flow the Hydnophora or Monti's would so be sure you account for that as well.
Unfortunately "normal" doesn't help here. NSW values are anywhere between 1.5-3 mEq/l so it could be anywhere in that range. Ideally you want it upwards of the 3.0 mEq/l range for healthy pH and to prevent dramatic swings/drops at night. I would upgrade the test kit at the next opportunity.
I normally buy my dry staffs in marine depot. Do you know others cheaper places via internet???
How much (ml's) of the ESV?
probably 5 ml of each part A-B every day How are you preparing/dripping the kalkwasser?
I mix 1 tea spoon of Lime with 1.5 gallons of RO water in close conteiner. I am looking for easy way to to put Ca in my tank, probably a Kalwasser reactor... But it is very expensive and I don't understand how work a calcium reactor so far. Sometime I would like to follow the instruction of some expert the same of an automata
I find it odd with so few scleractinians (size depending) that you would have that much of a demand. Something amiss there.
I have to test mine, I use Kent as well but heard on a different board there may be something off with their alk levels as of late. The Ca should still be in the higher range. They no longer use IO to produce their salt which now comes in a bag liner within the pail. If you still have the old product (no liner), the alk should be 4.25 mEq/l with a Ca of about 435-440 ppm if mixed to 35 ppt.
At any rate, doing a few extra water changes over the next few weeks should restore your chemstry and aid in increasing the salinity. Just be sure you mix up the saltwater a day ahead and mix with a powerhead and heated to the same as the display tank. Try not to use newly mixed (within hours) saltwater. Be cautious and also test the chemistry of the newly prepared salt to be sure it is not part of the issue.
Excellent, hopefully 24/7 changed weekly.
IO = Instant Ocean saltmix
35 ppt = a salinity measurement when using a refractometer. If you where using a hydrometer, you would report the value in SG or specific gravity. Given the notorious history for inaccuracey with hydrometers, you really should target a higher SG if so. 1.023 SG is not optimum, 1.025 SG si a better goal.
How 'bout my question on that last pic?
Sorry to "disect" your post, with the many points to discuss it makes it easier to follow.
Cheers
Steve