Achilles Tang

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I was away from work so in that much it was a + but thanks for the welcome back :cool:

Salifert's kit test both ammonia and ammonium so your good there. It is very odd as Lee pointed out to have a fish like this show an adverse reaction to a ½ dose of Cupramine. Even slightly above a full dose should not have prompted this reaction. The only thing in that regard that would make sense would be the Cupramine has degraded/bad batch or something else was breaking the amine bond making the copper freely available.

I would leave the salinity at 1.016 or so for the time being to be sure it does not show any signs of other parasites/maladies. Hyposalinity does not treat many things effectively except Crypt and it can be very challenging and dangerous to mix with other treatments/meds. Once your sure the fish if not afflicted by something else, then go ahead and perform the prophylactic treatment. pH will definitely be more challenging but try to maintain the alk closer to 3-3.5 and be sure both the tank and tank room breathe easily.
 
Leave it about 1.016 it will be for now. :)

As of right now, the Achilles shows no signs of anything, other than that place on his right side that is probably a "net" type damage. That spot isn't getting any larger, and it is slightly (could only be my wishful thinking) less pronounced now also. I never did look into any type of Stress-Coat, and I'm sure doing that much wouldn't hurt.

As for the tank & room breathing easily... since my setup is all out in my garage (no cars), it gets very good ventilation.
 
Pro Tech Marine by Kent or Stress Guard by Seachem are your best options for wound management/slime coat protection. Both contain a polymer that will help the fish heal faster. The lowered salinity will address the rest. Don't hesitate to treat with a gram positive antibiotic like Maracyn II at the first sign of redness at the damaged site.

If copper becomes necessary for any reason, just remember those additives/conditioners may linger in the tank.
 
Thanks Steve!

I'll keep you posted on my Tang's furthered QT, and hopefully life in my display after. :)

btw: No redness at all on his side, but my LFS has Maracyn II available (I've been there to ensure), so know exactly where to go if needed.
 
Okay... managed to get 1 picture that didn't turn out all blurry tonight, because I wanted to compair that place on his side. It is actually looking MUCH better than it was, so I guess it wasn't just wishful thinking at all! :D

Of course, this happened to be the 2nd picture out of 18 that I took tonight, and was before I realized it would be a much nicer picture if I cleaned the glass 1st. Ohhhh well, at least it shows him, even through the film on the glass.
 
i think i just heard your tang say "Ron, come get me"!!!:D

Wake-Up Ron... Wake-Up!!! I think you're having a nightmare... or at least I know you're dreaming! :D

He is a very nice looking Achilles, I will admit. Still very early in a QT, but I'm very hopeful all works well because I really want him in my display! :) *proud father look*
 
Nice looking fish. It's eating and active so that's really a positive. Keep the water quality as high as possible, the stress as low as possible and the diet as nutritious as possible. I know in typing that I might make it sound easy but it's not always a simple task. It takes hard work and I'm sure your up to it. I look forward to seeing this fish in your display tank.
 
He is very active, enjoying the 4" ABS 90 & "T" to swim through, along with the current of the SEIO 1500. I think he is becoming a piggy instead of a fish... really enjoying the Nori & Spiralina... but only semi-picks at the Broccoli.
 
That will take time for the tang to adjust to. Keep at it though even if small amounts. It's a great food for tangs and would definitely benefit this species.

I know it has been discussed many times before, please forgive the repeated question, but...how do you prepare the broccoli?
 
I know it has been discussed many times before, please forgive the repeated question, but...how do you prepare the broccoli?

I have purchased the frozen broccoli nubblets, and keep these in the freezer. Feeding time, I take a piece from the freezer, thaw in RO/DI water, then place on a letuce clip.
 
As Ed indicated, frozen is the easiest. Be sure it's mainly florets though. It's very important the broccoli is either prefrozen for several weeks or blanched prior to feeding. The fibers in the broccoli must be broken down before feeding. That goes for any similar types foods as well.
 
Steve,

Just an update here on my Achilles;

I have kept my tank S.G. at 1.016 per your recommendation since the 10th of January. Doing 5 gallon water changes every other day. No Ammonia or Nitrite... with slight buildup of Nitrate (as is expected). My Nitrate level is about 10 prior to doing my water changes... then down to about 7.5ish after. This looks good to me.

Fish still eating great, very active... appears happy. He still only semi-picks at the broccoli, but I still do this every morning before work, so thats all he gets in there until I get home from work, when I swap it out for some Nori.

The spot above the teardrop on his right side is still there, if I REALLY look for it, not getting any worse, and still slightly better every day I would guess.

To date, I still haven't noticed ANY signs of Crypt what so ever. :D

Should I continue holding at the 1.016 until his scales have totally healed up before dropping down to 1.009 for my prophylactic treatment of Ick... or start that now since I have noticed no redness or spreading what so ever with those spots?

I have had him now for a month, and with the exception of his reaction to the Cupramine treatment, I've had no problems with him at all. Being the type of fish that he is, I would rather go slowly with his QT, than try to rush anything... so figured I would see what direction you suggest at this time.
 
Are the scales you refer to the "tear drop" mark or different? If so are they standing on end/jagged or missing/faded?

I would say it's safe to go ahead with the hypo treatment if that's your goal. There would appear to be no concern for other parasites so far and antibiotics will not be a concern if needed.
 
Steve,

If you go back to my 1st post here, the picture I included there was the best shot of the discoloration/damage (?) I could get with my poor camera. They don't appear to be jagged or missing scales, just discoloration... if that makes any since??? The reason I keep mentioning the "tear drop", is because this spot is just above the tear drop on his right side... so I'm using the "tear drop" as a reference point, the damage isn't on that tear drop... sorry for being confusing.

Okay... kewl. Start lowering the S.G. down to 1.009, watch the pH... and start the Hypo treatment. As long as I don't see any signs of Crypt, then in about 4-weeks I'll be able to slowly start raising the S.G. again, prior to his introduction to the main display. :D

Thank you once again for all of your help!!!
 
No worries, go ahead with the hypo! :cool:

Just keep a close eye on the faded scale area for redness. If it's simple depigmentation is will continue to "fade" as the normal pigmentation returns. If it remains/gets larger or spreads becoming red, Vibriosis or Uronema may be a concern but it's not a common issues with this species.
 
Update

Well, the faded scale area on the side of my Achilles has totally faded away now. :) He is looking VERY happy still, and I'm getting excited for the day he gets to be moved into my main display tank! :p

Here is a picture of him.
 
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