bryosis
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DonW
R.I.P.
mal1099
Well-known member
Well I had bryosis last year. I started using bio pellets and it turned white and never been seen since. Before that i trade tech m , animals and manual removal and nothing seemed to work. Good luck on your fight
jrgilles
Well-known member
Hey guys, dealing with a bryopsis issue right now.
I have been dosing Kent Tech M now for 4.5 days, raising my Mg 100 ppm per day (50 ppm twice a day.) I am around 1600-1650 ppm Mg now.
A bit confused on what to do now. Do I just hold it at around 1650 for a week and the bryopsis melts? Or am I supposed to do water changes and keep redosing it up? I just bought a gallon of Tech M, which is good for getting me to 1650-1700 once with a bit to spare (total volume around 110 gallons.)
Bryposis isn't looking near as happy as it was. some dead matter, etc., but it is still pretty thick. Any advice from you people who have done this would be great. Sounds like I might need to get another gallon or 2 of tech M?
rob
I have been dosing Kent Tech M now for 4.5 days, raising my Mg 100 ppm per day (50 ppm twice a day.) I am around 1600-1650 ppm Mg now.
A bit confused on what to do now. Do I just hold it at around 1650 for a week and the bryopsis melts? Or am I supposed to do water changes and keep redosing it up? I just bought a gallon of Tech M, which is good for getting me to 1650-1700 once with a bit to spare (total volume around 110 gallons.)
Bryposis isn't looking near as happy as it was. some dead matter, etc., but it is still pretty thick. Any advice from you people who have done this would be great. Sounds like I might need to get another gallon or 2 of tech M?
rob
jrgilles
Well-known member
OK, cool. I was reading earlier in this thread about doing water changes and cranking it back up. Is that just to accommodate normal water change schedule then? Before I started, I did a large water change, so probably good for 3 weeks without any problems.
About removing bryopsis...... that is how this problem started, I picked it and now it is everywhere. So you are saying, now that the mag is up, I should start pulling it? Some of it is deep in some textured rocks so not easy to remove, but I could definately start pulling clumps out if it isn't going to facilitate more spreading.....
About removing bryopsis...... that is how this problem started, I picked it and now it is everywhere. So you are saying, now that the mag is up, I should start pulling it? Some of it is deep in some textured rocks so not easy to remove, but I could definately start pulling clumps out if it isn't going to facilitate more spreading.....
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The high level of mag should start melting the Br. it should be starting to turn yellow. I can not see the benefit of allowing it to completely reduce in the tank wate as it will give you a bit of a nutrient bounce. So picking out the material that has started to turn already cant hurt. I dought the algae will spawn out while it is in a death spiral and even if it did it wont settle out as the mag will be more harmful to newer shoots.
Not sure what the reduce and then recrank thing is though.
Mojo
Not sure what the reduce and then recrank thing is though.
Mojo
jrgilles
Well-known member
Great, thanks. Also not sure about the reduce and recrank. Hadn't heard of it in my research until I saw it here on this thread (although I have read this thread several times.)
I guess it makes some kind of sense, if it is an impurity in Tech M, it would get them Mg down and allow you to add more impurity without getting the mag to insane levels.
I will just hold it at 1700 and pick out dead stuff, and hope this evil beast goes away
I guess it makes some kind of sense, if it is an impurity in Tech M, it would get them Mg down and allow you to add more impurity without getting the mag to insane levels.
I will just hold it at 1700 and pick out dead stuff, and hope this evil beast goes away
E
eww
Guest
Hey Rob... Long time no see on here. We did it with keeping the level at 1700 with Tech M for about 2 weeks and everything melted before we got around to pulling any dead material out. It just disappeared and we haven't had it since. We did this twice. First in the main tank in the house and then the garage "holding tank" and it worked the same both times. Kirk (NC2WA) has lots of experience with this so maybe buzz him to see if he has anything else to add.
jrgilles
Well-known member
Hey eric. Been busy and not on forums as much. Tank has been pretty much on auto pilot.
Thatstly my plan, thanks for confirming it works. Can't wait to get it cleared out
Once you reached 1700 did you have to keep dosing to maintain it? Have a calcium reactor with some dolomite in it which usually maintains my mg level for me, but not add in more of the tech m impurity. Could shut the reactor off tho if you found yourself putting in a decent amount more to maintain the level
Rob
Thatstly my plan, thanks for confirming it works. Can't wait to get it cleared out
Once you reached 1700 did you have to keep dosing to maintain it? Have a calcium reactor with some dolomite in it which usually maintains my mg level for me, but not add in more of the tech m impurity. Could shut the reactor off tho if you found yourself putting in a decent amount more to maintain the level
Rob
NC2WA
Well-known member
Rob,
The idea is to hold Mg level at 1700ppm for at least 2-3 wks without doing a water change. Once you see Br change to yellow or grey color, you can do a water change sucking up the dead stuff..If the algae is not completely gone, you dose again to 1700ppm and hold at that level for another 2-3 wks...
As you prolly have found out, Br is very invasive and hard to remove. It takes stubbornness and perservance on the part of the reefer to follow thru AND let time do its thing.
In my case, I did two treatments of Tech M, then I remove all LR and used my power washer to remove all algae..since that point in time, I have been algae free for 3.5yrs.
In all it took 6 months for the Br to complete be gone from my tank.
This is NOT an over night process (again, you prolly know that by now)
The idea is to hold Mg level at 1700ppm for at least 2-3 wks without doing a water change. Once you see Br change to yellow or grey color, you can do a water change sucking up the dead stuff..If the algae is not completely gone, you dose again to 1700ppm and hold at that level for another 2-3 wks...
As you prolly have found out, Br is very invasive and hard to remove. It takes stubbornness and perservance on the part of the reefer to follow thru AND let time do its thing.
In my case, I did two treatments of Tech M, then I remove all LR and used my power washer to remove all algae..since that point in time, I have been algae free for 3.5yrs.
In all it took 6 months for the Br to complete be gone from my tank.
This is NOT an over night process (again, you prolly know that by now)
jrgilles
Well-known member
Repost, first one went into the thread with bryopsis spelled right. haha, not this one, (bryosis.) But here is what is going on:
To update my situation:
Raised Mg from 1250 to 1700 or thereabouts over 5 days (100 ppm per day in 2 doses of 50 ppm morning and evening)
It has now been at 1700 for about 4 days. Bryopsis biomass is maybe 10-20% of what it was. Many patches appear gone. What is left is shriveled and whitish looking.
By the time I got the Mg to 1700 bryopsis pinnata (sp) was looking a bit slimy and not healthy green to yellow green color. (started as a very healthy plant, green with some blue highlights, very pretty actually). Stayed that way for a couple of days then it almost overnight died way back and started turning white.
Corals all look ok. Some nuclear greens I have have turned yellowish in the center disk instead of green and there is a bit of bleaching on an encrusting coral. Also, the encrusted section of a tricolor acro has bleached, but the branching part looks fine. One of my candycanes (maroon and green) isn't too happy and appears to be dying off, but it has never been very happy and hasn't divided at all in the last year and a half. My other candycane, a fluorescent green one, is doing just fine (has gone from 2 heads to 40+ in the last year and a half, so a very healthy specimin.)
I should test Mg again, as I might actually be a bit above 1700. 1725 or so. But haven't cuz that is where it is and seems to be working great with little damage to the rest of the tank.
I will probably let it rest for another 10 days or so, and do a big water change in about 10 days, and return to normal water change schedule as the mg can slowely come back down.
rob
To update my situation:
Raised Mg from 1250 to 1700 or thereabouts over 5 days (100 ppm per day in 2 doses of 50 ppm morning and evening)
It has now been at 1700 for about 4 days. Bryopsis biomass is maybe 10-20% of what it was. Many patches appear gone. What is left is shriveled and whitish looking.
By the time I got the Mg to 1700 bryopsis pinnata (sp) was looking a bit slimy and not healthy green to yellow green color. (started as a very healthy plant, green with some blue highlights, very pretty actually). Stayed that way for a couple of days then it almost overnight died way back and started turning white.
Corals all look ok. Some nuclear greens I have have turned yellowish in the center disk instead of green and there is a bit of bleaching on an encrusting coral. Also, the encrusted section of a tricolor acro has bleached, but the branching part looks fine. One of my candycanes (maroon and green) isn't too happy and appears to be dying off, but it has never been very happy and hasn't divided at all in the last year and a half. My other candycane, a fluorescent green one, is doing just fine (has gone from 2 heads to 40+ in the last year and a half, so a very healthy specimin.)
I should test Mg again, as I might actually be a bit above 1700. 1725 or so. But haven't cuz that is where it is and seems to be working great with little damage to the rest of the tank.
I will probably let it rest for another 10 days or so, and do a big water change in about 10 days, and return to normal water change schedule as the mg can slowely come back down.
rob
jrgilles
Well-known member
So, to follow up on this:
Raised Mg to about 1700-1725 (from 1250), there abouts over 5 days. Held it at 1700 for about 2 weeks
After about 4-5 days at 1700 bryopsis started to gray out and lost most of its biomass. By 7 days, no bryopsis to be seen.
Where the bryopsis was hair algae started popping up (consuming nutrients left behind by fried bryopsis, which I didn't remove, as it kind of just shrank away to nothing.)
Held it there for a week after no bryopsis was seen. About halfway through that week I did some serious weeding, pulling out all the hair algae that popped up an using a turkey baster to blow out the sedement there (incase any bryopsis bits were trying to take shelter in the detritus where they were growing.)
Did my first water change today. About 20%, have another batch of water that will be ready tomorrow, another 20% change. Then I will take a Mg measurement and do another water change in a week or so, depending on the effect of these last two water changes.
Anyway, looks to be totally nuked. Amazing how well that worked. Tank looks awesome.
I will continue to watch for it, and if I see any, I will NOT pick it this time, as that is what started this mess. Probably just remove the rock from my system. I will treat again if it becomes systemic.
rob
P.S. as a side note, if it is an impurity that does this, it seems that maybe what is important to remember when treating is the total change in Mg, not the level it is at (although maybe high mg is also necessary for the impurity to be active against bryopsis?)
For example:
If my Mg is high, say 1500 and I dose Tech M to 1650. Probably not going to do too much.
Lets say it is low, 1000 and I raise it to 1500. Lot of Tech M going into the system, lots of the mysterious bryopsis killing impurity, even though it isn't at 1600+
Maybe the 1700 is just a good benchmark, based on what people normally have their Mg at (1200-1300), but what is really important is how much Tech M you are actually adding to your system (net change in Mg conc.)
Thought I would throw that out there, since I haven't heard any discussion mentioning that.
Raised Mg to about 1700-1725 (from 1250), there abouts over 5 days. Held it at 1700 for about 2 weeks
After about 4-5 days at 1700 bryopsis started to gray out and lost most of its biomass. By 7 days, no bryopsis to be seen.
Where the bryopsis was hair algae started popping up (consuming nutrients left behind by fried bryopsis, which I didn't remove, as it kind of just shrank away to nothing.)
Held it there for a week after no bryopsis was seen. About halfway through that week I did some serious weeding, pulling out all the hair algae that popped up an using a turkey baster to blow out the sedement there (incase any bryopsis bits were trying to take shelter in the detritus where they were growing.)
Did my first water change today. About 20%, have another batch of water that will be ready tomorrow, another 20% change. Then I will take a Mg measurement and do another water change in a week or so, depending on the effect of these last two water changes.
Anyway, looks to be totally nuked. Amazing how well that worked. Tank looks awesome.
I will continue to watch for it, and if I see any, I will NOT pick it this time, as that is what started this mess. Probably just remove the rock from my system. I will treat again if it becomes systemic.
rob
P.S. as a side note, if it is an impurity that does this, it seems that maybe what is important to remember when treating is the total change in Mg, not the level it is at (although maybe high mg is also necessary for the impurity to be active against bryopsis?)
For example:
If my Mg is high, say 1500 and I dose Tech M to 1650. Probably not going to do too much.
Lets say it is low, 1000 and I raise it to 1500. Lot of Tech M going into the system, lots of the mysterious bryopsis killing impurity, even though it isn't at 1600+
Maybe the 1700 is just a good benchmark, based on what people normally have their Mg at (1200-1300), but what is really important is how much Tech M you are actually adding to your system (net change in Mg conc.)
Thought I would throw that out there, since I haven't heard any discussion mentioning that.
