I've been inspired, I'm going back to patrol (my decision) in Wrigleyville, so my creative juices have been stirred by anticipation.maxx said:
Nick
I've been inspired, I'm going back to patrol (my decision) in Wrigleyville, so my creative juices have been stirred by anticipation.maxx said:
Nick
Just bought a multi-colored colony rock of zoo's orange, green and yellowed polyps. Will take a pic and post tomorrow. It's only been in the tank for an hour and only about 40% have opened up. So hopefully tomorrow.spy_i said:wheww!!!
THERE'S A LOT TO DIGEST FROM THAT!!
keep it up men... we are still here following your thread.
Just a point of clarification here. Fish can handle drops in salinity rather easily but increases are rather stressful and can lead to sudden death. True LFS keep lower salinity but it helps with wound management/stress, not parasite control. If using procedure #1, you can easily end up with problems. I don't say this to *** rather from experience but fish (anything wet) should be acclimated to a quarantine before the main display. With fish in particular, the salinity and pH moreso of the QT can be easily and quickly manipulated to match that of the transport/LFS water. It is rather important especially from "on line" sources to get the fish out of the shipping water as soon as possible. By manipulating the QT water parameters you can transfer the fish very quickly and without the stress of chemistry acclimation.4251cpd said:Last important tip: inverts cannot handle osmotic (salinity shifts) shock like fish can. Ask the fish keeper what the sg is in that particular tank before hand as to make the transistion as smooth as possible. Most lfs that do not have corals in that display tank will keep the sg as low as they can get away with it. Cost, parasite reduction etc.
Great points Steve as always but after reading Terry Bartlme's latest article in Advanced Aquarist about acclimation he has this to say about hyposalinity in marine teleost (boney) fish:steve-s said:Just a point of clarification here. Fish can handle drops in salinity rather easily but increases are rather stressful and can lead to sudden death. True LFS keep lower salinity but it helps with wound management/stress, not parasite control. If using procedure #1, you can easily end up with problems. I don't say this to *** rather from experience but fish (anything wet) should be acclimated to a quarantine before the main display. With fish in particular, the salinity and pH moreso of the QT can be easily and quickly manipulated to match that of the transport/LFS water. It is rather important especially from "on line" sources to get the fish out of the shipping water as soon as possible. By manipulating the QT water parameters you can transfer the fish very quickly and without the stress of chemistry acclimation.
Cheers
Steve
As Stevie S described. Since it's becoming a looming issue, I'll discuss my own method of water changes for my nano, and the more traditional way of doing it. That will be sometime before the Cubs play tonight, before 9:05 PM CST. It will be cathartic because I just LOVE holiday get togethers with my extended family.Zen Reeferer said:Speaking of salinity...should I be topping off my tank with fresh water before I do a water change?
The salt doesn't evaporate with the water, does it? I think this was my problem early-on. I kept having salinity swings I was blaming on my salt mix. Seems ok, now that I top off before a water change.
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