Newbies guide to the nano reef

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4251cpd said:
Great points Steve as always but after reading Terry Bartlme's latest article in Advanced Aquarist about acclimation he has this to say about hyposalinity in marine teleost (boney) fish:

Hyposalinity assists marine teleost fish in recovery five ways:
Helps control external parasites
Helps fish to recover osmotic balance more quickly
Helps fish that are injured or have lost mucus protection to maintain osmoregulatory balance.
Conserves energy that can be used to recover normal homeostasis and for disease resistance
Helps fish to recover feeding behaviors more quickly

http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2006/3/aafeature1/view?searchterm=hyposalinity

I know that this hypothesis may change in a month, but I'm sticking to my guns on this one.
The info is quite correct and I doubt it will change but I think you take on it might be "off". Hyposaline conditions are in the range of 14-16 ppt (1.011-1.012 SG). Your typical LFS water level will be about 25 ppt (1.019 SG) which will kill absolutely nothing in regards to a parasite. The best that will be achieved at that level (1.019 SG) is some stress reduction/energy conservation as well as helping to reduce the instances of bacterial infections.

I agree w/ you about the BEST way to acclimate is through QT but as I've intimated quite a bit ago, the reasons for having a nano set-up is space, cost and/or location (work). With the upcoming section on fish for the nano I will get into a nano solution for an improvised QT. I appreciate your feedback and hope you enjoy the read. Mike.
I look forward to that part concerning fish but I would also hope you address invert/non fish quarantine as well. I realize the desire for "space saving" in regards to a nano being desirable in the first place but if a fish/coral/snail parasite is introduced directly into the nano display, how do you effectively deal with it or for that matter why would you when the risk can be eliminated?

Cheers
Steve
 
steve-s said:
The info is quite correct and I doubt it will change but I think you take on it might be "off". Hyposaline conditions are in the range of 14-16 ppt (1.011-1.012 SG). Your typical LFS water level will be about 25 ppt (1.019 SG) which will kill absolutely nothing in regards to a parasite. The best that will be achieved at that level (1.019 SG) is some stress reduction/energy conservation as well as helping to reduce the instances of bacterial infections.


I look forward to that part concerning fish but I would also hope you address invert/non fish quarantine as well. I realize the desire for "space saving" in regards to a nano being desirable in the first place but if a fish/coral/snail parasite is introduced directly into the nano display, how do you effectively deal with it or for that matter why would you when the risk can be eliminated?

Cheers
Steve
Steve your 1st point is correct as I should have prefaced my statement with "as part of a strategy" to combat the parasites. Higher temps, lowered sg and a copper or like, treatment in a QT. Well, I use a temporary QT, it's a 5-gallon bucket w/ lighting and heater and pump. Sounds kind of crude but it works. Just will have to break down and get a 10 gallon fragging tank.
Fish QT is easy, not much need for light, barebottom to clean daily small water changes and I keep a pad of filter floss in a corner of the sump in hopes that good bacteria is colonizing on it just for said QT purpose. With fish, I have found positive results of a FW bath prior to putting in a QT.

The point about snails, after the researching I've done, marine snails and their problems seem to be specific to them and not other animals. So I may get put to the stake for this statement but here it goes: QTing snails and crabs would be too overcautious in the fact that the time, money and effort for an animal that reportedly does not carry dangerous pests that effect fish, or coral. Let me ask you a question, when starting your tank did you QT any hitch hiker you found in your tank? If not, why not? So, no I did not QT any snails and have lost one to crab predation.
 
Sidebar: Water Changes and Top Offs

Small and steady wins the race.
....or now I know how to make tequlia.
1. Top Off: Evaporation, we know what it is but can we fully articulate the process in plain Inglush. You are in New Yawk city during the Monday morning rush hour in a metro train. Packed in like sardines, the people in the back still have a while before they hit their stop.They are more relaxed or cooler then the people who are by the doors whose stop is next. There is a lot of bumping and grinding as train transport is not the smoothest ride in the world.
The train comes to a stop and the doors open. You know what happens, a bunch of people get off the train, yet today no one is getting on the train at this particular stop. Leaving the train less full then it was and its occupants cooler as a result. This also explains the cooling process of evaporation. Well when salt water evaporates, only water (the people) vaporizes (gets off) from the tank (the train). Salt stays in solution, but since there now is less water, it's concentration becomes larger. Yes, there is saltcreep, but not enough to keep the balance of the sg in regards to evaporation. What it all means to us is that we need to add fresh water into our tanks to keep our tank's sg to remain stable. I buffer my fresh water. Thats just me, some do some don't. I use only R/O for top off's. It's good enough for gub'nit work. Some use a kalkwasser drip as they're top off during the night to stabilize both their pH and calcium levels. If you never used Kalkwasser I implore you to read up and talk to salty dogs on this particular subject. You could seriously turn your tank into the Frankenstein monster if this process is mismanaged.
How you top off is up to you. If you have a constent amount of evap everyday, You could invest in auto top off system, or DIY one. Kent makes a low-tech doser that looks like a hospital drip bag. Set it up at night with the known amount of FW and go with a slow drip. I have about 16-32 oz's of evap so I take my plastic cup, fill it up and pour it in the sump. If you have a sump, it makes for good husbandry to always do water changes and top offs in there.
2. Water Changes: If I were the supreme ruler of the universe I would have 3 commandments for my meek followers I. Be nice to the police. II. Though shalt not view The View III. Water Change, Water Change and Water Change. Why most excellent one, shall we change water? The nano as stated in this piece quite a few times before is subject to quick disaster, less water volume= less stability. In order for you to err on the side of your marine inhabitants safety it's vital that we take out some of the old and "refresh" the tank with an equal part of new SW. Serves a twofold purpose: Taking out some of the old, we export some of the nutrients that if left to compound would bring about a horrible, suffering and painful death to your critters. By adding the new we replenish essential major, minor and trace elements that are used by your tank mates. Plus you end up diluting nutrients. A cheap example, my uncle espoused healthy eating habits and since he did not have his on kids til later on in life, he chose to torture my sister and I. My favorite chicken soup is Mrs.' Grass. Yeah the one w/the golden egg. Well it has a "chicken flavoring" packet that is basically made up entirely of salt. The directions clearly state boil four cups of water and add egg, noodles and the entire contents of the packet. Well, my uncle in retrospect was right, but only using a half packet was criminal. It tasted like my grandma's borscht. Meaning no taste what so ever. We keep this up and we will lower our NO3 levels over the course of a year. I am of the camp who like a little 'trate in my tank. As of today, it'll be a month ago I bought a xenia frag, single-stalk with 6 polyps. Now it's 6 STALKS w/numerous polyps. Anyone on the NW side of Chicago need xenia????
Our overall goal in the nano tank for amount of water changed in a month is 30% of total water volume. 10 gallon tank, 3 gallons. Unlike the big kahuna tanks that could get away w/a monthly change, the schedule is 10% a week. Wait that would be 40% a month....have courage Willow, better to err on the side of caution. This can be done on say the same day every week knocking out two hours that day. With that amount changed you want the parameters equal to what your tank is. I say, too much work. I'm doing 2% percent daily and taking the weekends off. Once you get into a routine it'll take you less then 10 minutes a day. The best thing is that w/such a smaller volume added, pH and temp are no worries. Yes, according to article by Randy Holmes-Farley, the smaller changes get rid of nitrate just about as well as larger monthly changes. And you are replenshing elements that are used by the critters or taken out of the picture by carbon and/or skimming.
The polish/ukranian or "pukie" method of the jiffy change. A. 5 gallon container of premade sw. shake it up like your having a seizure for a minute, set down. B. Taking your two plastic "beer" cups make sure to do your FW top off if needed. Use the wet cup after the top-off and take out predetermined amount of tank water. In my case 32 ozs. C. Take the unused cup and siphon or pour the new water and dump in da sump. Close up all containers and clean out (rinse only) your cups. Wallah, all done, no stress to the fishies and you do tend to see them with a lil mo' pep in their step.
If you need to change the sg gravity for any reason, the smaller amounts will do it safely. Need to increase it, Use sw as 1/2 of your top off. Need to lower do your top off and with the water change add FW as1/4-1/2 of your new SW. Have fun kiddies, the Cubbies are up 4-1 in the bottom of the 7th. Mike.
 
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hey mike, i really appreciate you doing this thread. i am barely getting into the hobby and i feel a lot more confident doing so with all the tips you've provided. i really can't wait to get started. i just bought a 12 gallon aquapod and i'm still waiting for them to deliver the stand. hopefully by the time its established it will look almost as beautiful as yours and some of the other nano reefs iv seen posted here. again thanks for your help as i will continue to follow this thread intently.
 
johnastig said:
hey mike, i really appreciate you doing this thread. i am barely getting into the hobby and i feel a lot more confident doing so with all the tips you've provided. i really can't wait to get started. i just bought a 12 gallon aquapod and i'm still waiting for them to deliver the stand. hopefully by the time its established it will look almost as beautiful as yours and some of the other nano reefs iv seen posted here. again thanks for your help as i will continue to follow this thread intently.
John thanks for the kind words. Just remember beauty never comes quickly, and patience on your part will be rewarded greatly.
 
Great Thread!!!

There is one comment I would like to make regarding top-offs. (It might be mentioned but I might have missed it due to laughing). It is important to be consistent with top-offs of fresh RO/DI water. Much more so than in larger tanks. The SG will swing much more widely in nano tanks if you wait numerous days and try to do one big "catch-up" top off than if you add a small amount every day.
 
johnastig - Welcome to Reef Frontiers!!!

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Curtswearing said:
Great Thread!!!

There is one comment I would like to make regarding top-offs. (It might be mentioned but I might have missed it due to laughing). It is important to be consistent with top-offs of fresh RO/DI water. Much more so than in larger tanks. The SG will swing much more widely in nano tanks if you wait numerous days and try to do one big "catch-up" top off than if you add a small amount every day.
CSW, great point, I should have been a little more specific about this issue rather then hinting about the amount of evap I have and then how to correct the issue. Glad you're getting enjoyment and catching things I have missed or gloss over is greatly appreciated.
 
Sidebar-Issue of QT

Dedicated to Steve S
QT or quarantine tank is a very good practice to maintain a healthy tank. A 10 gallon or larger with a powerhead and simple mechanical filter along w/a heater, and light source, will suffice. I described a 5 gallon bucket w/the same for QTing livestock. Keeping the tank "clean" and stable water parameters are the most important factors you must pay attention to. Daily small water changes and siphoning out uneaten food and waste is mandatory. Using a filter pad in the sump to hopefully colonize good bacteria for use in the QT to help in filtration. I'm not going to go into whether or not to QT everything you put in the tank. There is a seperate thread in the advanced topic section about that. I implore you to take a look at it. That being said if you detect your fish being sick you can set up the makeshift hospital tank and isolate the animal for: medicating, most of the treatments will kill your inverts. We never medicate the display, nunca, nunca, nunca.
Use only new SW for the QT, make sure it's parameters match your display (if you're doing a M*A*S*H set up), or get it as close to the bag water of your new purchase. Amount of time to QT? Depends, minimum is two weeks before introduction and as long as it takes to get your critter healthy and wait an extra week to just be sure. I will get into disease treatments later on but for now, it's to get you thinking about what we need to do to keep our tanks as healthy and successfull as possible. Happy reefing, Ciao, Mike.
 
Show and tell reduxxx

Pic #1 Asterina(sp)(I think it is) star HH one of three that reside in there.
Pic #2 My out of control Xenia colony, I need to frag this frocker soon.
Pic #3 My rainbow Zoanthus colony.
Pic #4 My gonipora sp colony after feeding on reef roids.

I recieved a sample of the reef roids took a pinch and added 5 ml's of tank water. I target fed my goni's and Fl ricorodia and observed feeding responses from all. I will give it a few more feedings before I give it my shiznit stamp o' approval.
 
Stowaways

I will be address the good, bad and uglies of what stows away on your live rock and live sand. I will do a little section each of what appeared in my tank, general info and an opinion.
showphoto.php

Permission for use given by MojoReef, tanks again.
The common limpet, of the Scutus family. Has been known to be called a chinese or china hat snail. Thank god for film strips in grammar skool. A voracious algae grazer. With an extended mantle that looks like a frilly skirt. It does it's job so well that it strip mined a good portion of coralline algae on one particular rock. Thought to be not so reef safe in many different publications. The kicker on these jerkus eatus uppisis, try taking them out of your tank. Ha ha ha ha ha ha! Get out a hammer and chisel or a jackhammer for these babies. They move slow for a reason, their footing is lock down that there is almost no way of removing them without wounding, possibly killing them, that is their defense mechanism from predation. So if you want them in your tank....I warned you, ya tree hugger. Take care everyone, and I may do another 2nite. Mike.
 
Stowaways cont'd

showphoto.php
thanks to NaH2O.
The cerith snail: you will see the shell on more dwarf hermit crabs then you will actually see the original owner. I guess you can consider them the meek of the snail population. Yes, I know the good book said the meek shall inherit the earth, but I think they were throwing a bone to the masses. For the majority of the time they'll stay in your substrate. You'll see them mowing your glass or back wall. Algae grazers, on the smaller side. Reef safe, so its a good thing to have in your tank. My only enjoyment of this snail is how it turns it's shell at a 90 degree angle, just like Gayle Sayers. I know simple minds=simple pleasures. Hollenback at y'all later. Mike.
 
Stowaways again.

Thanks again to Mojoreef:
http://www.reeffrontiers.com/photos_corals/showphoto.php?photo=524&cat=537

Chiton: Polyplacorpha A not too common of an invert that looks kind of like what would happen if you crossed Madeline Albright with a a pillbug. Not very pleasing to the eyes but is useful for our reefs if taken in as a stowaway. Its a slime and algae grazer. Use caution if you need to remove them as their "foot" holds them down on the surface like the limpet. I've not seen anything written nor I have I observed any strip mining of the coralline as I have w/the limpet. This one is your call but I give it a chance if it were MOI. Happy reefing to all. Mike.
 
maxx said:
Mike,
Your Goni's looking great!

Nick
Tanks, big guy. You can't tell but the largest stalks are about an inch long now. Been using reef-roids 2x's a week and they seemingly enjoy it. Noticed the tissue on the skeleton is starting to grow and a faint color to it.
Beat car Mike starts up Sat., can't wait.
 
Holy cow! (thought you'd like that, since you're a Cubs fan and all.... *Sox rule*). Your Gonio looks great! You need to post a before and after shots as this baby grows. Outstanding!

4251cpd said:
A not too common of an invert that looks kind of like what would happen if you crossed Madeline Albright with a a pillbug.

OMG! ROFL!
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