rafal07013
Well-known member
- Joined
- May 5, 2009
- Messages
- 186
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Pacific Sun LED Pricing/Ordering Instructions
- Thread starter barrierreefcf
- Start date
Help Support Reef Aquarium & Tank Building Forum:
Shane and John
father and son
Rafal...Thanks so much for the help...Simple solution when you know how to to do it!!
Quality customer service.......even at 10:00 at night on the east coast..You Rock!!
Quality customer service.......even at 10:00 at night on the east coast..You Rock!!
FreakinReefin
Insert idiot comment
Okay I am having some major problems... They are similar to what John was experiencing. I set my settings and then switch to the other lamp and as soon as I disconnect, the lamp dims from 18k to 22-23k. As I'm switching, the lamps start to flicker and do all kinds of weird stuff. If I actually get the lamps set at the same settings and then leave them for a bit, both lamps will eventually dim to pretty much just blue. I have tried erasing the memory...twice just like you have in the above instructions to John and I still get the same results.
rafal07013
Well-known member
- Joined
- May 5, 2009
- Messages
- 186
call me and I will walk you through the process.
Shane and John
father and son
Freekin...did ya get it all fixed up?I found that once i set my settings,if I closed the blootooth right away,they didnt save....So I finally picked my settings,and left it connected for about an hr...then closed out...They held...Today I mounted my power sullpies...So I had to unplug them...They held all their settings after I plugged em back in!!maybe that will help!
gothunder3022
Well-known member
Wow...these lights are insane! Setup was quick and easy. Here's a couple pic's of my 160W Black Pythons in action. I need to shoot a video...the intensity and shimmer is amazing!!
100%, 18K
50%, 18K...can't say the picture does it justice, but the PAR definitely cut nearly in half.
And what was all the fuss about installation??? The 2x4 kit was a breeze!
100%, 18K
50%, 18K...can't say the picture does it justice, but the PAR definitely cut nearly in half.
And what was all the fuss about installation??? The 2x4 kit was a breeze!
barrierreefcf
Sponsor
Wow...these lights are insane! Setup was quick and easy. Here's a couple pic's of my 160W Black Pythons in action. I need to shoot a video...the intensity and shimmer is amazing!!
100%, 18K
50%, 18K...can't say the picture does it justice, but the PAR definitely cut nearly in half.
And what was all the fuss about installation??? The 2x4 kit was a breeze!
Lol....finally this thread provides a good laugh. Thanks
roscoe
Well-known member
Is that your 180 Thor?
gothunder3022
Well-known member
No...it's my 120. You see in the pics where I have that probe sitting? It's maybe 3-4 inches from the front...I was getting 250 PAR at 100%! Pretty sure I could fry an egg near the top!
gothunder3022
Well-known member
Well...except there's barely any heat transfer!
roscoe
Well-known member
Nice!!! Is that a standard 120 48x24x24? It looks taller than a standard one. If so that is some great PAR numbrs for the bottom of the tank!!! I can't wait to get my fixture next week for testing!
FreakinReefin
Insert idiot comment
Is this unit the DIY unit you have been talking about? Or are you getting a Pac Sun unit?
roscoe
Well-known member
I thought about building one then decided against it as i barely havee enough time to do other things LOL. It is another fixture with cree LED.
gothunder3022
Well-known member
Yeah, standard 120. The probe happens to be 24" from the bottom of the fixture. We'll have to experiment with how high we can set them before optics are needed. I haven't decided on a mounting solution yet...but as long as it's something I can raise and lower, I'm inclined to keep the lights closer to the tank so I can run them at a lower power setting to save energy and perhaps "bulb" life.
I'll tell you what I was thinking. Ive since spoke with Cy and Rafal. I guess the hanging kit is a concern not because it would fail, but that whatever it's hanging from.
The way my canopy was built it that I have four doors on the front, and the top is on a hinge, and folds in half. I will post pics.
My though it that I can drill four points on the canopy. Press some type of sleeve into the wood. This was the lights will hang inside the canopy but not attached inside the canopy.
My stand is tall, my tank is tall, and the hood is tall. You can't really see anything above the tank.
I would attach the hanging cables as were designed to be used. I will thread the four cables through the sleeved holes in the top of the canopy. My plan
is to either using hooks, suspend the fixture so that when I lift the clam shell top of the canopy, it would in theory lift and tilt back slightly for better access.
The other idea was to drill and sleeve the canopy as stated above. Thread the cables through so that the light hangs. Instead, using cable clamps to loop the opposite end the cables. I would have eight sturdy hooks above the canopy. Four hooks that I would hang the loops on during normal use, then a set of four hooks spaced further out. This would require more cable to reach the hook so, if done in all four corners will lift the light so that I can access the tank through the front doors.
The alternative is to cut 2 2X4s and frame the edges so that the light won't slide off the wood. I would rather not do it this way. I will have to remove the canopy and lights if I wish to access the tank, plus this light now retails for 4k. This light deserves more than to be thrown on a pile of lumber.
The way my canopy was built it that I have four doors on the front, and the top is on a hinge, and folds in half. I will post pics.
My though it that I can drill four points on the canopy. Press some type of sleeve into the wood. This was the lights will hang inside the canopy but not attached inside the canopy.
My stand is tall, my tank is tall, and the hood is tall. You can't really see anything above the tank.
I would attach the hanging cables as were designed to be used. I will thread the four cables through the sleeved holes in the top of the canopy. My plan
is to either using hooks, suspend the fixture so that when I lift the clam shell top of the canopy, it would in theory lift and tilt back slightly for better access.
The other idea was to drill and sleeve the canopy as stated above. Thread the cables through so that the light hangs. Instead, using cable clamps to loop the opposite end the cables. I would have eight sturdy hooks above the canopy. Four hooks that I would hang the loops on during normal use, then a set of four hooks spaced further out. This would require more cable to reach the hook so, if done in all four corners will lift the light so that I can access the tank through the front doors.
The alternative is to cut 2 2X4s and frame the edges so that the light won't slide off the wood. I would rather not do it this way. I will have to remove the canopy and lights if I wish to access the tank, plus this light now retails for 4k. This light deserves more than to be thrown on a pile of lumber.
gothunder3022
Well-known member
It's been a while since I looked at your tank thread...but I'm wondering, do you even need the canopy? The fixture is nice looking, plus it seems like the cable through the canopy idea will make it hard or impossible to use the clam shell feature...and yeah, I just saw the latest retail prices last night...you got a great deal!
Yeah I gotta keep it for a few reasons.
One is I've got the tank in the theater. I want to avoid spilling any additional light into the room. I know the tank glows when the lights are on, but I've got vaulted celings and I'm afraid it will bounce light all over. It does when I lift the half clam shell right now with the halides.
The bigger problem is my wife hates it, I tried telling her we could set the light to dim to like 10 or 20% during movie time. No luck.
Also, I really should keep it on there. It's a matching stand and canopy. It's a nice piece of furniture and it matches the rest of the room well. Plus it seems to help conceal the noise from the overflows.
One is I've got the tank in the theater. I want to avoid spilling any additional light into the room. I know the tank glows when the lights are on, but I've got vaulted celings and I'm afraid it will bounce light all over. It does when I lift the half clam shell right now with the halides.
The bigger problem is my wife hates it, I tried telling her we could set the light to dim to like 10 or 20% during movie time. No luck.
Also, I really should keep it on there. It's a matching stand and canopy. It's a nice piece of furniture and it matches the rest of the room well. Plus it seems to help conceal the noise from the overflows.
apollothesun
Well-known member
are they working on a version for cloud simulation? any firmware releases they're working on?
it would be nice if they can assign a static ip address so we dont have to power off multiple I/O units in order to program the unit.
how much water resistance are the glass covers for the unit? i notice i get salt spray by the end of the day on the glass surface. is it possible for the salt spray to stain the glass if a day passes by?
do we need to register our units to cover the warranty?
do you have a link to our warranty?
rafal07013
Well-known member
- Joined
- May 5, 2009
- Messages
- 186
1) Cloud simulation - please take a look at PAR Table settings and possibilities of cloud simulation.
2) I am not aware of any firmware update for IO/BP at the present time. Phobos/Deimos will have some upgrade this week.
3) They are aware of it and may revisit the issue. In order to overcome differences between different operating units plus different bluetooth - I think PacSun will offer their own bluetooth device that will work with the operating system of the buyer.
4) water and spray stains - regular maitnance is suggested. I mean I would clean the light once a week.
5) warranty - proof of purchase is enough.
2) I am not aware of any firmware update for IO/BP at the present time. Phobos/Deimos will have some upgrade this week.
3) They are aware of it and may revisit the issue. In order to overcome differences between different operating units plus different bluetooth - I think PacSun will offer their own bluetooth device that will work with the operating system of the buyer.
4) water and spray stains - regular maitnance is suggested. I mean I would clean the light once a week.
5) warranty - proof of purchase is enough.
