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Reef Aquarium & Tank Building Forum

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Kevin remember its not so much the size of the tank as it is the lighted area that you want inside the tank. What we tell folks is to look at what is the area that you want to light on the inside. So in most cases your not going to need very strong lighting 6 inches from either side or from the front or back. From their you look at things like your aquascaping, as in if you have a couple of islands in the tank your going to need strong lighting over those islands and medium lighting everywhere else. Lots of different ways to ways to approach the lighting. Also with the custom made lighting you can do anything you want with them, we can make fixtures out of black acylic like we did for Matt
tankcustomlightup_zps2fb501c6.jpg


With this one it has the legs behind the the tank that are hinged, you could have it loo similar and maybe come off the ceiling with you hoist system?? lots of choices just come on down or shoot us a call and we can plan something out.

mojo
 
They really are incredible lighting on Mike's Reeftank and especially with LED's a must see in person to get the real effect. Even being a Journeyman DIYer will probably end up buying OBD fixtures for upcoming Large Tank build and utilyze my time and skills elsewhere.

Cheers, Todd
 
Thanks. It is def on my mind. got to get it up and flowing and skimming first. then perhaps as I sell off my other systems I can dream LEDS.
 
Since the op has the neptune apex I will ask this question here about the lights. I want to be able to ramp both whites and blue and then transition to eventual night light in the eve, and then dark. I assume not dificult with all units in paralel. but can you hook them up in series to provide a roll across the tank easily?
 
Since the op has the neptune apex I will ask this question here about the lights. I want to be able to ramp both whites and blue and then transition to eventual night light in the eve, and then dark. I assume not dificult with all units in paralel. but can you hook them up in series to provide a roll across the tank easily?

Yes can program to roll, but each individually controlled light would need it's own data cable and controller and this would take extra VDM modules added.
Simpler answer, can be done but relatively expensive option
 
I want to be able to ramp both whites and blue and then transition to eventual night light in the eve, and then dark. I assume not dificult with all units in paralel.

No problemo, you can even keep the K value that you like all the way through that.

but can you hook them up in series to provide a roll across the tank easily?

Actually Mike I think it could be done somewhat no that expensively. Here is the thought. The Apex comes standard with 4 channels for dimming. So we could get a chip that handles 4 channels to convert the signal from analog to digital. You could hook up two light fixtures to 4 channels and control them the way Kip is talking, then on third unit you could just kill the power to it to turn it off??
 
I have to agree with herefishy!!! I have three of the larger OBD LED fixtures above my 135 gallon tank I upgraded to in early December. I am still ramping up the power - now at approx at 30% - started at 10%. Using OBD's controller they offer as a stand alone. My lights are 12" above the top of the tank and the coral have adjusted nicely and getting good growth. Just added some larger acro's a few days ago and they look great. I will have to get some updated pics and post them....
 
Yes can program to roll, but each individually controlled light would need it's own data cable and controller and this would take extra VDM modules added.
Simpler answer, can be done but relatively expensive option

With an Aqua Illumination light you can program to roll if you have the lights in sequence. I've got 2 AI Nanos over my tank controlled by my Apex.
 
I have to agree with herefishy!!! I have three of the larger OBD LED fixtures above my 135 gallon tank I upgraded to in early December. I am still ramping up the power - now at approx at 30% - started at 10%. Using OBD's controller they offer as a stand alone. My lights are 12" above the top of the tank and the coral have adjusted nicely and getting good growth. Just added some larger acro's a few days ago and they look great. I will have to get some updated pics and post them....

unless I have just 3 main islands of rock work, I just don't see how I can get away with less than 4 on a 72x36x27 tank. I will need penetration due to 27 high so will need to mount closer to water. I can see running 4 with front to back orientation and light the back 2 feet of the tank just fine. but I would like to reserve the abilty to move rock work around from time to time especially when adding new fish.
 
You could check with Mike, but I am pretty darn sure you could grow SPS at the bottom of a 30'' tank with these lights.

Kevin I think your tape is broke. The water height in your tank will never be over 23 3/4'' if it gets 3/8'' higher than that you better turn off your pumps. LOL
 
unless I have just 3 main islands of rock work, I just don't see how I can get away with less than 4 on a 72x36x27 tank. I will need penetration due to 27 high so will need to mount closer to water. I can see running 4 with front to back orientation and light the back 2 feet of the tank just fine. but I would like to reserve the abilty to move rock work around from time to time especially when adding new fish.

I started with two fixtures and had a darker spot in the middle so I added a third. Keep in mind I am using three of the 180 fixtures and herefishy is using the 120w fixtures. My tanks is also only 18" wide. Youmay be correct with a 36" wide tank and having to orientate the lights the other direction, but you could try three and see. I have very uniform lighting all the way across the tank and all the coral has acclimated nicely. I have a few monti's that didn't do much before under my T-5's that are showing very good growth now.
 
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You could check with Mike, but I am pretty darn sure you could grow SPS at the bottom of a 30'' tank with these lights.

Kevin I think your tape is broke. The water height in your tank will never be over 23 3/4'' if it gets 3/8'' higher than that you better turn off your pumps. LOL

Dave, I think you have spent too much time behind the measuring tape! lol
 
I started with two fixtures and had a darker spot in the middle so I added a third. Keep in mind I am using three of the 180 fixtures and herefishy is using the 120w fixtures. I have very uniform lighting all the way across the tank and all the coral has acclimated nicely. I have a few monti's that didn't do much before under my T-5's that are showing very good growth now. Three fixtures seem to give great coverage.


What are the dimensions of your tank? mine will be 72x36x27. Consider that ANY of the LED fixtures like the obd's...or even radions only claim to light a 24x24 inch area, and the PAR really drops off on those outer limits of the 24 inch square. so even if your eyes think the tank is lit fully, if there is too much space between units the corals between the fixtures are not getting the same PAR. on my 48x24 tank I have 2x250mh and 440w of vho. going from t-5's to LEDS is a nice step up! I will be trying to light a much larger area.

for any 6 foot tank less 24 inches deep or less, the ideal would be 4 units uniformly spaced.
 
You really need to see them in person. Three lights will handle a 6' tank. The power of the lights determine not just the par downward, but the spread by raising the height. I have mine 12+ above the water. My halides were 5" up. I have always over-lit my tanks and do NOT feel it is currently under-lit with the three small lamps. Three large ones would do the job as you are not setting up a frag tank with maximum par needed at every square inch.
What are the dimensions of your tank? mine will be 72x36x27. Consider that ANY of the LED fixtures like the obd's...or even radions only claim to light a 24x24 inch area, and the PAR really drops off on those outer limits of the 24 inch square. so even if your eyes think the tank is lit fully, if there is too much space between units the corals between the fixtures are not getting the same PAR. on my 48x24 tank I have 2x250mh and 440w of vho. going from t-5's to LEDS is a nice step up! I will be trying to light a much larger area.

for any 6 foot tank less 24 inches deep or less, the ideal would be 4 units uniformly spaced.
 
I have seen them and many other brands including radion in person, and am in no way knocking them....I have said many times and posted on this forum that i bellieve the obd fixture is the "most bang for the buck". am I missing something here? you do understand my tank is 6 feet wide...and 3 foot from front to back?
 
Kevin, as Mike stated, you would be able to lights your tank with three 180 fixtures. These lights have unbelievable penetration and the coverage can be increased with raising them higher. We are lighting two 72" x 48" coral tanks at the store with three lights each and have already seen growth in these tanks including SPS st all locations. Also if you look at Debra's thread (aquanaut) she has three 180's and one 120 over her 250DD aquarium and arguably may have too much light. She has been able to significantly raise her lights and use screens to acclimate her massive colonies and all is doing well art this point. I believe you would be thrilled with three 180's and could add a fourth only if needed. Come on down to the store and we will fire up the PAR meter and show you.

Eric
Oceans by Design
1055 Andover Park E
Tukwila, WA 98188
206-575-5006
 

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