Powder Brown w/ mouth sore

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ronj

Blue Tang
Joined
Nov 28, 2005
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4,490
Location
Destin,Fl
i bought this pb yesterday at Petco..aka "fish hell"....it has ich..i brought it home and put it in a qt tank..i started to lower the salinity today..the fish has a spot or sore on its' mouth....the top speck is an ich trophont..the lower spot is the sore...i hope these pics help Steve
 
You knowingly bought a sick and injured powder brown? Ron, do you enjoy heartache? Not telling you anything you don't already know, but as long as the stores get softies to pay hard cash for their diseased almost-live-stock, they will keep importing low quality to profit on. Sorry for the preaching and no disrespect whatsoever intended. (Hope it gets well soon)
Mike
 
i know Mike...so many people buy from Petco that it doesn't matter..i'm sure somebody would come along and see it and have no idea that it was sick, or what to treat it with if they did know it was sick..i have an arsenal of people to help me treat them(you guys)..i have a very bad soft spot for tangs:rolleyes: ..i literally see it every week at some of these stores.they don't do anything to stop it...it makes me sick!!!it is on such a large scale that i don't think it will ever stop...if i think i can help a few here and there, i don't mind trying;)
 
well this fish looks bad this morning..it was covered in trophonts yesterday..today i can only see one or two, but its' skin is wierd looking..it looks kind of slimy and shiny...it has clear bubbles that have formed on both of its eyes..it has one bubble on the left eye, and three on the right..one of these bubbles also formed on the tip of its mouth.....the salinity is at 1.009...temp 80..ph 7.9-8.0.....Steve, could i put something in this tank from my hippo qt tank??? i need something with nitrifying bacteria on it....if there is a bacteria or copepod problem in the hippo tank, would it transfer to this tank..i didn't know if it was contageous
 
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it looks kind of slimy and shiny...
Start raising the salinity (a little faster than normal) and switch to copper, the tang most likely has A. ocellatum. Don't wait for the salinity to get back to the normal level, begin the copper treatment now but be very very sure that pH stay above 8.0. Check it three times a day if necessary and adjust carefully.


it has clear bubbles that have formed on both of its eyes..it has one bubble on the left eye, and three on the right..one of these bubbles also formed on the tip of its mouth.....
Are the bubbles actually on the eye or just beneath the cornea in front of the iris?

Steve, could i put something in this tank from my hippo qt tank??? i need something with nitrifying bacteria on it....if there is a bacteria or copepod problem in the hippo tank, would it transfer to this tank..i didn't know if it was contageous
Definately not, never transfer anything from one QT to another. Especially one known to be infested. You also need to stop using rock in the QT set ups. It really will hamper your efforts no matter what your treating. Be sure the rock comes out before the copper goes in. Water changes are also going to be needed so have plenty of SW at the ready.

Cheers
Steve
 
the bubbles are on the eye.....i will go get Cupramine and a test kit right away..what do you think about the sore on its mouth???
 
I can't make out anything on the pics you've posted but it wouldn't hurt to use the Maracyn I&II to be on the safe side. Being on the mouth, fungal is a possibility and having a fish stop eating would be disasterous at this point. Be sure you use double the dose of each med and add daily for seven days. Make a 25% water change prior to each new dose as well. You should see a marked improvement in 2-3 days if so. Make sure you monitor the Cupramine level properly a few times daily.

Cheers
Steve
 
i'm not sure how fast you want me to raise the salinity, so i will make a guess..i just ordered cupramine and copper test kit from Seachem..they will be here on Wed, i think...i couldn't find a test kit at any of my lfs's..i hope that isn't too late
 
i actually raised it a little more than that...when i started yesyerday, i was at 1.010..i am at 1.015 right now...the fish is doing well..it is swimming around and eating all day
 
I meant how is the appearance in regard to parasite activity?

Slow down on the salinity increase. Too fast and you will severely stress (possibley kill) the fish. Your not going to have the copper at full strength until Friday earliest anyway so you do not need to rush this.
 
ok...the parasite activity is pretty much gone..there are discoloration spots...there is one white dot on its eye..some of its fins are a bit tattered, but they were like this when i got it..its skin is no longer shiny or anything..it looks normal
 
Maracyn 2 is great, you don't have to use the marine one as the freshwater one is the med and marine version is the med plus vitamins. Petco sells tons of it so it's "probably" not expired. If the fish still has any sores, fin erosion, filmy stuff or other skin abnormality I would dose it because it will help prevent bacteria from infecting the spots where the trophonts were. A lot of times (according to a fisheries trained wholesaler friend) it's the secondary infections that kill the fish rather than the ich or brooklynella. He had me treat 3 anthias with brook with maracyn 2 and all 3 recovered. A vet I talked to day before yesterday says either maracyn 2 or oxytetracycline is a great help to fish with skin infections and not as dangerous as some of the other products.
Good luck, I have a soft spot for these guys too. Got a gorgeous powder brown about 6 months ago, it's doing fine. They are stunning fish.
Kate
 
Steve, the salinity is at 1.0019...i raised it a bit faster than i wanted, but the fish seems to be doing fine..he is eating like a pig, and i really mean "a pig"..this fish eats more than any tang i have ever kept...i checked my shipping tracker...the Cupramine and Seachem copper test kit will arrive tomorrow afternoon.....let me know if you think i should do anything before i add the copper
 
Make sure you remove any/all CaCO3 items, carbon or other resin type sorbant materials. I'm pretty sure you don't use a UV but just in case, turn it off as well. Read the instructions carefully before hand. If you don't understand something don't hesitate to ask.

I recommend you have a seperate pail for use in water changes. Use a bold black marker and write COPPER ONLY on it. You can then mark off a fill line and then dose the amount of Cupramine needed to get to the 0.5 ppm. Write the number of drops it took to get there on the side of the pail for easy reference. Should be 4 drops per gallon. You will use ½ that the first two doses to the QT though. It will cut down on contaminating another tank and reduce repetitive testing. You will still need a confirmation test before using though. When you do the water change, you won't have to guess what Cupramine to add back to the QT since the change water will already be there. You will save plenty on the copper testing regent and time.
 

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