Spa flex plumbing question
- Thread starter ac7av
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IPisces
Well-known member
Could you post a pic of it?
I may need to do something like it and to see it would be helpful.
thanks
Krish
RF STAFF
It's about time I do something useful around here! :lol:. The cheapest fix on the planet lol.
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ac7av
Bring on the FISH!
Okay, hopefully the pictures all come out in the correct order.
First picture is the overflow box. As you can see I use a T with two down turned 90s. There is a hole with a tube in the center top of the T for the air inlet control.
Second picture is where the tube leaves the overflow box out the side of the tank.
Third is a wider angle of the outlet tube from the overflow box to the new spaflex tubing. I aloud for a natural curve of the new flex to reduce any stress on the connections.
As a note this was almost exactly how the pvc pipe was fitted. I used 45s in the original pvc tubing to make the bends to try and reduce back pressure.
Forth is where you can see on the very far right the connection from flex back to pvc and then running at a slight angle down to the left.
Fifth is half way to the sump in the horizontal section under the tank. I just added in this valve to try to help with the flushing but it did nothing at all no matter how I closed it except make a loud hissing noise with the more back pressure I put into the system.
Sixth is where it drops into the sump. I am suspect of the 90 that drops the water into the sump is my issue but I cant seem to figure out a way to make a quick 90 with out using a 90.
Seventh is the sump outlet. As you can see a already have a T with tubes out each side to slow it up a bit into the sump. The sump is only 12 inches wide so not a lot of room to do much else here that I think would make a big difference.
So what my real change in the system is if you look back at previous pictures of before and after you can see how I removed the UV filters and when straight from the sump pump to the tank. This has increased the water flow by my guess 25%. Im sure the increased water flow may be what has also helped to bring on this new problem. So you can see its like a domino effect. Fix one problem only to create another.
For the record the plumbing for the return is all 1 1/4 inch.
First picture is the overflow box. As you can see I use a T with two down turned 90s. There is a hole with a tube in the center top of the T for the air inlet control.
Second picture is where the tube leaves the overflow box out the side of the tank.
Third is a wider angle of the outlet tube from the overflow box to the new spaflex tubing. I aloud for a natural curve of the new flex to reduce any stress on the connections.
As a note this was almost exactly how the pvc pipe was fitted. I used 45s in the original pvc tubing to make the bends to try and reduce back pressure.
Forth is where you can see on the very far right the connection from flex back to pvc and then running at a slight angle down to the left.
Fifth is half way to the sump in the horizontal section under the tank. I just added in this valve to try to help with the flushing but it did nothing at all no matter how I closed it except make a loud hissing noise with the more back pressure I put into the system.
Sixth is where it drops into the sump. I am suspect of the 90 that drops the water into the sump is my issue but I cant seem to figure out a way to make a quick 90 with out using a 90.
Seventh is the sump outlet. As you can see a already have a T with tubes out each side to slow it up a bit into the sump. The sump is only 12 inches wide so not a lot of room to do much else here that I think would make a big difference.
So what my real change in the system is if you look back at previous pictures of before and after you can see how I removed the UV filters and when straight from the sump pump to the tank. This has increased the water flow by my guess 25%. Im sure the increased water flow may be what has also helped to bring on this new problem. So you can see its like a domino effect. Fix one problem only to create another.
For the record the plumbing for the return is all 1 1/4 inch.
Glad it is fixed. It is probably that elbo where the drain enters the sump that was causing the flushing (with the improved flow in the rest of the system). The flow restriction from that elbo eventually backed up the water in the drain line, until there was enough pressure to "flush", and get back to a partially-filled drain line.
Concerning that valve in the drain line. Now that you have it, you can use it to stop dripping when you have the return pump off, and you are doing sump cleaning.
Otherwise I would suggest leaving it wide open. Valves in drain lines can easily cause floods.
Concerning that valve in the drain line. Now that you have it, you can use it to stop dripping when you have the return pump off, and you are doing sump cleaning.
Otherwise I would suggest leaving it wide open. Valves in drain lines can easily cause floods.
riemannp
spike
(Forgive if already covered above but ....) There is indeed a special pvc cement for flexible pvc piping.
Weld-On® Specialty Cements: Flex PVC Cements | IPS Corporation
Sounds like some have had success with the regular pvc pipe, but just know there is a special grade of this cement designed specifically for the special grade of flexible pvc. You will find it at your local spa / pool / hottub place. Also, be sure to tap your local spa folks for all they can offer as they are licensed plumbers and know the material inside and out.
Weld-On® Specialty Cements: Flex PVC Cements | IPS Corporation
Sounds like some have had success with the regular pvc pipe, but just know there is a special grade of this cement designed specifically for the special grade of flexible pvc. You will find it at your local spa / pool / hottub place. Also, be sure to tap your local spa folks for all they can offer as they are licensed plumbers and know the material inside and out.
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