very frustrated with my new 2 true percs

[joker577]

Darn LFS guy..he told me the FW dip was a hypo treatment because there's no salinity at all and it will cause the ick to die very quickly

 

[leebca]

The pH may be part of their 'uncomfortableness.' If you review the proposed procedure for FW dip, the pH match is the most important water quality parameter in the FW dip.

 

[joker577]

I'll use some marine buffer next time...no matter how much you add it will only bring it up to 8.3

 

[joker577]

For right now they seem content in the QT so i'll just use that medication
(Easy-dissolve tablets treat bacterial, fungal, viral, and external parasitic disease in saltwater aquarium fish. Revolutionary non-antibiotic tablets rely on powerful oxidizing action to attack and destroy a wide range of disease-causing microorganisms. Treats infectious ailments such as ich, oodinium, fungus, milky or shedding slime, bacterial gill disease, mouth and fin rot, clamped or torn fins, and ulcers. Simply place tablets in floating dispenser to allow medication to dissolve and distribute evenly throughout the aquarium. Treat fish that display clinical signs of disease or new arrivals to prevent unwanted or unexpected infection. For saltwater aquariums. ) and after a few more days see how they're doing

 

[MAGDRL Mom]

Also - your display needs to be fallow (fishless) for 4-6 weeks to end the ich cycle in your tank. Copper is the only thing that will eliminate ich on fish

http://forum.marinedepot.com/Topic31173-10-1.aspx

 

[joker577]

I think it's only the fish because my damsel in there now has been fine the whole time

 

[MAGDRL Mom]

I think it's only the fish because my damsel in there now has been fine the whole time

But now the tank is contaminated.

Please read about ich - then you will understand. Kelly Jedlicki is, in my opinion, is an excellent reference in regards to all fish diseases.

 

[joker577]

if it was completely contaminated wouldnt it show signs of it? not trying to be rude or anything here don't take it the wrong way...just trying to ask as many questions as i can

 

[Herefishyfishy]

Ich can be active but not noticed in a tank for years. The fish develop a sort of partial immunity. They are still infected and are carriers and the tank still is infested. Similar to poor water, just because you can't see it doesn't mean everything is OK.

Besides copper treatment per the book, a proper course of hypo-salinity will CURE marine ich. As stated, the tank will need to remain fallow for 5-6 weeks or the fish will just get the disease again when re-introduced.

 

[MAGDRL Mom]

if it was completely contaminated wouldnt it show signs of it? not trying to be rude or anything here don't take it the wrong way...just trying to ask as many questions as i can

Not necessarily. You really do need to research ich so you have a complete understanding of the parasite. It can be kept in check by a fish with a health immune system, and you may only see signs of it if the fish gets stressed then it "disappears". Also note, when YOU see it, it is already in the gills.

Bottom line, is that if you are going to accept the responsibility of the life of a fish, organism, whatever, you need to understand how to care for them. Check out the link I posted before. Kelly is the ich queen.

 

[joker577]

Went and did a 5 minute FW dip again today...adjusted ph and temperature to the right scale

 

[Herefishyfishy]

Respectfully Joker, if you don't want to follow advise, how come you ask for it? Good on fixing the FW dip, but it will not cure any disease, just elevate some symptoms. Read the links please!

 

[joker577]

I did read up and I think tomorrow i'm gonna go out and buy some formalin

 

[MAGDRL Mom]

I did read up and I think tomorrow i'm gonna go out and buy some formalin

copper copper copper

 

[joker577]

My only worry is the infertility

 

[MAGDRL Mom]

dead is infertile


The treatment for brooklynella is formalin baths daily for 3 to 5 days.

The treatment for amyloodinium ocellatum (velvet) is copper.

The treatment for cryptocaryon irritans (ich) is copper or hyposalinity.

Hyposalinity will not treat velvet.

I would treat the qt with copper to cover both the ich and the velvet. I would recommend Seachem Cupramine - follow the directions on the bottle. Monitor water parameters and copper level daily. Must use either the SeaChem or Salifert copper test kit. Make sure the QT does not have live rock or substrate or carbon in it.

Make sure to leave the display tank fallow - no fish for this 8 weeks as well. Do not add anything - rock, inverts, corals, etc to this tank during this time period and then make sure everything is quarantined (rock, inverts, fish, corals, algae, etc).

 

[joker577]

idk what to do with my damsel...he's so aggresive and i don't want to put him in the QT tank with the clowns but i have no other tank. how much is cupramine?

 

[joker577]

I feel like a horrible person...i'm sorry for all the trouble i've been causing you guys..just been very stressed!! i mean jeeze im just a young teen first puberty now this! lol but yeah if you would just help me out this time right here i would be soooo appreciative. Would you please tell me the best/least expensive way to get rid of this ick. I have a 10 gal quarantine with the 2 clowns in there and 1 have the damsel in the main tank with no where to put it...my QT has CC as a substrate sadly. Tomorrow i shall go on a shopping spree to get my products so if you could tell me now then i'll get them tomorrow.
Sorry again for all the trouble i've caused you guys
Brandon-

 

[Jan]

the cheapest way would be to get a divider for your current QT tank and put the clowns in half and the damself in half. It's not much room though. If you got a 20 gallon tank used, you could put a divider in that and keep the fish in more space. Check Craig's list etc.

 

[joker577]

i'll see what i can do about that ...but i was meaning treatments moreso as the solution to my no $$ problem