Curtswearing
Mantisfreak
I don't think you're arguing with me. It's just a discussion and I could be wrong. I'll throw out my initial thoughts when reading their web page. We can discuss any of the points, this is just my initial reaction.
BINGO!!! But you also need to make sure that you are using RO/DI water, need to not use flake food or other food additives. Only feed blender mush and soak all ingredients prior to making the mush in RO/DI water for a couple of hours to absorb all of the polyphosphates off of the surface and out of the tissues of the seafood. Keep your protein skimmer in tip top condition at all times.
I suspect the Carbon is a low Phosphate variety. That is important always. See this thread
The Potassium Iodide is no different than Lugol's solution. Iodine and the Reef Tank If you use this product, please make sure you buy a test kit. Willy-nilly dosing of Iodine can nuke a tank.
I have no idea what the Zeospur is.
Get rid of the power filter. Instead, I would buy 1 One Micron Filter Bag FB1 for $5.75 and three FB5's for $5.55 each. Leave the FB5s on for a 2 or 3 days, then switch them out for a clean one. Rinse off the filter bags and reuse them. Once per week, put the 1 micron bag on for 24 hours. Spend those savings on livestock and $35 on a Phosban Reactor for the Rowaphos.
Phosphates naturally adsorb onto Iron. They are adding Iron, letting it get covered with Phosphates (and organics) and then skimming it out. Salifert also makes a liquid Phosphate remover. The Phosban reactor will do the same thing.
Phosguard is an aluminuasilicate based zeolite. Nitrate Sponge is a also a zeolite. Kitty litter is a clay based zeolite. There are lots on natural ones and a bunch of man-made ones.They operate on viscous entrainment and Van der Waals forces just like Granular Activated Carbon. The major difference is that zeolites can also act as a molecular sieve, ie the pore and channel sizes are uniform allowing molecules to be sieved according to size. GAC has randomly shaped pores and sizes. Viscous Entrainment and Van der Waals forces are described on this thread.
This is JMO. I think they took a couple of zeolites that we know work in our tanks, albeit slowly, put them together and then developed a "system" that is unneeded. Don't put Phosphates in your tank and remove them as much as possible with proven methods. Don't overfeed your fish so the nitrates stay low. Skim the water well to remove nutrients and detritus before it breaks down. Don't use Phosphate laden commercial fish foods or coral foods. Soak the P out with RO/DI water. Use filter bags to remove detritus too. Again, this is JMO.
If you give it a go, make sure you check back with us to tell us your results.
BINGO!!! But you also need to make sure that you are using RO/DI water, need to not use flake food or other food additives. Only feed blender mush and soak all ingredients prior to making the mush in RO/DI water for a couple of hours to absorb all of the polyphosphates off of the surface and out of the tissues of the seafood. Keep your protein skimmer in tip top condition at all times.
If this product is really accelerating the cycle, then it is nothing more than bottled nitrifying bacteria. There are lots of other brands of this too. However, I think they are a waste. We get airborn bacteria for free. The lifespans of most Nitrifying bacteria is less than 24 hours. How do they keep this bacteria alive in a bottle unless there is some food source of some sort in the bottle too? Buy a shrimp at the grocery store for 35 cents to kick off the bacteria growth.
Yet more bacteria. Yawn. If you have cycled your tank, you have plenty of bacteria coating every surface in your tank and many species are motile and live in the water column. There's plenty there for the coral. However, that's not that big of a deal to me either. They get most of their food from photosynthesis of the zoox that live in them.
If this provides food for bacteria, then it is a nutrient of some sort. Keeping nutrients out of a tank is what our goal is. The bacteria population is always in flux. If you provide excess food temporarily, all you will have is bacteria starvation in the next 24 hours.
I suspect the Carbon is a low Phosphate variety. That is important always. See this thread
The Potassium Iodide is no different than Lugol's solution. Iodine and the Reef Tank If you use this product, please make sure you buy a test kit. Willy-nilly dosing of Iodine can nuke a tank.
I have no idea what the Zeospur is.
Get rid of the power filter. Instead, I would buy 1 One Micron Filter Bag FB1 for $5.75 and three FB5's for $5.55 each. Leave the FB5s on for a 2 or 3 days, then switch them out for a clean one. Rinse off the filter bags and reuse them. Once per week, put the 1 micron bag on for 24 hours. Spend those savings on livestock and $35 on a Phosban Reactor for the Rowaphos.
Phosphates naturally adsorb onto Iron. They are adding Iron, letting it get covered with Phosphates (and organics) and then skimming it out. Salifert also makes a liquid Phosphate remover. The Phosban reactor will do the same thing.
Phosguard is an aluminuasilicate based zeolite. Nitrate Sponge is a also a zeolite. Kitty litter is a clay based zeolite. There are lots on natural ones and a bunch of man-made ones.They operate on viscous entrainment and Van der Waals forces just like Granular Activated Carbon. The major difference is that zeolites can also act as a molecular sieve, ie the pore and channel sizes are uniform allowing molecules to be sieved according to size. GAC has randomly shaped pores and sizes. Viscous Entrainment and Van der Waals forces are described on this thread.
This is JMO. I think they took a couple of zeolites that we know work in our tanks, albeit slowly, put them together and then developed a "system" that is unneeded. Don't put Phosphates in your tank and remove them as much as possible with proven methods. Don't overfeed your fish so the nitrates stay low. Skim the water well to remove nutrients and detritus before it breaks down. Don't use Phosphate laden commercial fish foods or coral foods. Soak the P out with RO/DI water. Use filter bags to remove detritus too. Again, this is JMO.
If you give it a go, make sure you check back with us to tell us your results.
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