60 gallon frag system build

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Well, I'm not so concerned about the traditional turn over rate. I am not using return water for flow what so ever. What I do get will be used for surface agitation.

I am more concerned about skimmer contact time with raw water from the overflow. So I am going to have matching sump flow and skimmer flow. This will allow me to process the majority of the raw water.
 
I ran 2 quiet One's on my 38 gal for the closed loop (can't remember the model number, but they were rated at like 1508 gph each) and those things got REALLY HOT!!! :flame:. These ones I had were blue pumps. Never imagined a pump could get so hot. Actually scolded my skin so be careful. Hopefully these aren't the same series pumps. It was a few years ago so they probably have better pumps out now. :)

Strange. There known for being cool and quiet. I have always had good results with them and don't think the hobbyist ever gave them proper recognition.

The quiet one 6000 pushes 1500 gph and was designed for pond usage.
 
Strange. There known for being cool and quiet. I have always had good results with them and don't think the hobbyist ever gave them proper recognition.

The quiet one 6000 pushes 1500 gph and was designed for pond usage.

Yea, mine was quiet and worked well, but heat...It was crazy. The chiller I had on a 75 gal cut in more on a smaller 38 gal because of those pumps. Didn't understand where the heat was coming from until I took down the pumps to clean them. I had true union ball valves. I disconnected them and when I released the valve to let out the water, it scolded my skin. I should have know that would be the case because the pump itself was hot to the touch. I'll look back on my old thread to see if I can find which pump it was I had exactly. :)
 
Strange that they heated up Krish. Even the pond ones should not get that hot. I am not to sure if the pond grade pumps can be ran external like the ones I use. I think there is a difference in the designs.

Yesterday I went to use an old mag 7 to drain the sump after a leak test, (one small one in the corner ) and the pump did not start. This morning I opened it up to find the housing inside had a hole eaten through it and rust came pouring out. Go figure. I never did like the Mag's anyhow because of the stainless steel screws they use to bolt the impeller housing on.

Just was surprised to see a hole down in there like that!?
 
Yea, magdrives have their issues, but for the price, alot of the time you can't beat them. On the Quiet One 6000's, I ran both externally. They said they could be used that way so maybe I was just the lucky shopper to buy two of the faulty ones :p
 
Strange that they heated up Krish. Even the pond ones should not get that hot. I am not to sure if the pond grade pumps can be ran external like the ones I use. I think there is a difference in the designs.

Yesterday I went to use an old mag 7 to drain the sump after a leak test, (one small one in the corner ) and the pump did not start. This morning I opened it up to find the housing inside had a hole eaten through it and rust came pouring out. Go figure. I never did like the Mag's anyhow because of the stainless steel screws they use to bolt the impeller housing on.

Just was surprised to see a hole down in there like that!?

The Gen X are like that too. I was finally able to get the impeller out of the Gen X 4100 and it was split down the center vertically and rusted. The lady I talked with at Gen X said the impeller should be removed every 3 weeks for cleaning.

Oh, by the way, your Betta looks pretty cool swimming around your tank. It's nice to see something in there. :)
 
so say your skimmer pumps 800gph then you will hve your return pump dialed into 800gph....roughly....why i ask is because im am running a 1262 with 4' head to a 75 gal-to sump...then a 1260 to a 40b then flow to 55gal-then sump i went with those pumps because how dependable they are... but i was thinking i might want to dial them down some to match my skimmer?---the flow is cruising trough my skimmer section.


Well, I'm not so concerned about the traditional turn over rate. I am not using return water for flow what so ever. What I do get will be used for surface agitation.

I am more concerned about skimmer contact time with raw water from the overflow. So I am going to have matching sump flow and skimmer flow. This will allow me to process the majority of the raw water.
 
Thanks for popping in justforfun. Sorry to be off line so much this week. Very busy at work right now.

Yeah, if your not dependant on the return water for flow, then I woud dial your sump "through rate" so you can skim more of the raw water being sent through. If your running other types of filteration down there also like a refugium, or cryptic zone, the slower current will improve contact time. Same with the use of passive flow carbon in mesh bags. Much better this way then a carbon reactor that will pack and channel. I prefer mesh bags in the flow path kneaded daily.
 
Time for an update.

Work has been pretty steady so the tank build is going a lot slower. But the build is most of the fun for me, so no rush.

I have been working on the plumbing recently.

My daughter finally got interested in the build after she saw the orange acrylic under the 20k lighting. She suggested doing glass doors on the sump and making it a part of the display. Great idea I thought!

So we have been working on colors for all the plumbing and fittings. So far were doing very well. Everything is schedule 40 PVC. We are looking for a less plumbing look and more creativity in the flow of the plumbing. Basically were trying to eliminate as much fittings as possible and bending the PVC.

We took sand and heated it up to 525 degrees. Then packed it into the piping and capped it off. This prevents any kinks from happening in the bending and heats evenly. After about 30 seconds the piping become like a wiggle stick, and is able to be twisted or shaped into any shape necessary. Let it cool in place and shazam! custom piping.

All the piping is getting painted and clear coated in a durable non toxic chemical resistant gloss finish. There is an oil based primer applied first, paint and 5 coats of gloss.

Here are a few shots of what we have so far:

Outside drying
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Overflow 1 1/2" pipe in place

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Doing the math for length and shape has been interesting. I am waiting for a special true Y to come in and then I can finish the overflow. Today I worked on the return line and will start the painting process for that this week. The ball valve is for servicing the pump and controlling the return flow. I went with Asahi Valve for accuracy. Looks like pink and orange and light blue will be coming up next. I can't believe I will be doing pink but for the kids~ :D

Thanks for looking everyone,

Frank
 
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You are out doing yourself. That is very very creative!!! How did you know how to shape your pvc? The painting and top coat is icing on the cake!! This is one of the most out of the box builds to date. The time and detail you have invested in this is very very rare.
Great job!!!!!
 
WAY COOL Frankie!!!! I'd be curious about the paint your using. Is it a paint that is used for painting swimming pools? That's about the only paint I could think of at the moment that would be non toxic and have a nice gloss to it. And I think it probably still comes in a variaety of colors. Of course the mind is on auto shut-off at thee moment so I will have to apologize and call it a night and wish you an awesome monday.

Cheers,
Alex
 
That is just plain ol Awesome Frankie! When you get the kids involved you get their imaginations going and at the same time teaching them, this is just Awesome! Lucky Kids! :D Maybe you should have them finger paint the inside of the stand after creating a design on paper then seal it up to preserve it!
 
Maybe you should have them finger paint the inside of the stand after creating a design on paper then seal it up to preserve it!

Ditto on the finger painting. That is an awesome idea and not something you'd see everyday. :D

Cheers,
Alex
 
Not too sure about the finger painting! I have a teen now :)

Thanks for the nice comments everyone :)
Here are some updates.


Lee decided the return line needed to have a slight twist to it :):
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To bend PVC, secure the pipe first
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Make a funnel that you can dump the sand into quickly so you don't loose to much heat. I finally found a good use for that Nautilus skimmer cup! LOL :)
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First fill the tube to be bent and then dump it into your pan. Be sure to have gloves and everything ready prior to heating the sand.
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Dump the sand in and cap off the other end to hold the sand. be sure to tap the tube several times to pack it good. You want it packed tight and full to the top.


hold the bend until it cools or the pipe will go straight again. Once cool let it sit for half an hour or so.


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Here's a dry fit
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I had to use a heat gun to tweak it into the correct position, next come the primer
042-3.jpg

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I'll follow up on finishing tonight after work.


Frank
 
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