Amphiprionidae (Clownfish) Workshop

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Gabby, From what I have gathered from these posts, is. With the exception of the Premnas (Maroons) That pair will keep no other social relationships with Juvinulles. Where Amphiprion species will pair, if there are Juvinelles present, you may likely see one Adult Pair with 3-5 juvenelles shareing the same anemone as a social group. So unless your tank is big enough to support 2 pairs without territorial tresspassing, you won't see more than one pair in your tank. And its unlikely that even if you have a big enough tank you will get more than one pair.

I hope I got this right, lol. I have been trying to follow this thread closely. As I want to add a couple more to my tank. Just waiting for the outcome of this thread before I do :)

By the way, Thanks Ilham for the topic. Your doing great! I can understand everything so far.
 
Detri said:
Gabby, From what I have gathered from these posts, is. With the exception of the Premnas (Maroons) That pair will keep no other social relationships with Juvinulles. Where Amphiprion species will pair, if there are Juvinelles present, you may likely see one Adult Pair with 3-5 juvenelles shareing the same anemone as a social group. So unless your tank is big enough to support 2 pairs without territorial tresspassing, you won't see more than one pair in your tank. And its unlikely that even if you have a big enough tank you will get more than one pair.

Exactly!

Best,

Ilham
 
ELMO so if I add say 3 adolescent Ocellaris Clownfish with my mated pair would the new addition stay adolescent for a long period of time?
Would they get along and all host in my toadstool together with no harrasment from the existing clowns?
Or does it vary from fish to fish?
Right now I have a tank is a 90 gallon reef, but I was over at another member of RF's house and she had a beautiful 8' tank. Well I know that I will not be happy now till I have one. I will be putting in a 180 reef to replace my 90 soon, but I will eventally have a 8' tank of 300 gallons or more.
 
PHYSICAL DIFFERENCES BETWEEN MALE AND FEMALE CLOWNFISHES

It is very encouraging for hobbyists and breeders to know that clownfishes are very easily distinguishable sex-wise. There are always 'specific cases', where they may be similar.

The first most obvious difference between a male and female clownfish is size. I will talk about the genus Premnas first because an adult pair can have the largest difference in size out of all the clownfish species. The female of this genus can reach upwards of 5-6" tail/total length (TL), whereas the male may stay at upwards of about ~2" total length. I have no proof of why the males stay so small, compared to the ratio of the male size in comparison to the respective female. Sizes do vary, however, because a lone male can grow by itself until greater than 2" in size. However, when a female is placed with it, it tends to stop growing. Again, this proves that the social environment controls hormones (i.e. growth hormones) within clownfishes.

Here is a photo showing the size difference. Both pairs are in my tanks:

sizediff.jpg


The above photo also shows a pair of adult Amphiprion clarkii. Notice in the 'terrible' photo that both male and female are about the same size. It is hardly noticeable. One day to me, the actual female looks bigger, and the next day, the actual male looks bigger. In such cases, there are other ways to help determine which one is which sex. In Joyce Wilkerson's "Clownfishes" book, she says that tail colors can be used to tell to help sex adult Clarkii clowns. However, I think she's got awesome eyes, unlike me...who can't tell apart to this day, whether the tail colors are all whitish, more yellowish, or whichever. What I rely on then, is their interaction. If you see they are fighting and chasing each other for more than 1-2 months, it is most likely you have a female-female pair. It is time to return one, and get a smaller one. I will discuss this later in the pairing section.

In discussing adult clownfishes, color variations are probably due to age rather than sex. As fishes from the genus Premnas age, they turn a darker color and slowly lose their striping/barring.

So the most important part here is that when looking for male or female, use size as your friend. Do not get fooled by thinking that 'since a fish is small, means the fish is young'. I will discuss that further in the pairing section. If you have any questions so far, don't hesitate to ask.

Best,

Ilham

(post 4)
 
Thanks so much Ilham.
doood i can't believe how small the male can stay and how big the female can get too.. woouu.
Great info dood :).
 
I just wanted to take the ime to thank Ilham for the sharing of his knowledge.
This is what these forums are all about. Information sharing, etc.
I havee learned a lot already I am excited for his next posts. :)
 
SeattleIT said:
I just wanted to take the ime to thank Ilham for the sharing of his knowledge.
This is what these forums are all about. Information sharing, etc.
I havee learned a lot already I am excited for his next posts. :)

I appreciate your kind words. I am glad the information here is helpful. I think it is what helps to drive me to increase my knowledge on these fishes. I know there are a lot more things to learn, and I myself am learning new things everyday.

Best,

Ilham
 
I agree Ilham. For one, I have decided to make my tank Clown only. For fish anyway. I am in the proccess of looking for a new Ocellaris mate to replace the one I recently lost. I have so many questions I want to ask about my Ocellaris but I know you are going to end up answering them eventually anyway. I am getting impatient LOL The thirst for knowledge is killing me hahaha.

Thanks for taking the time to build this thread. I know I am enjoying every word of it.
 
Detri ... dood now we are thinking the same :D .
I'm gonna be turning my tank into a school of clowns tank and since it's a small tank, they are gonna be the only ones in there hehe.
I am enjoying a lot this workshop Ilham and thanks so much for sharing all your knowledge :) .
 
SECTION 3: Purchasing/Buying Clownfish(es)

SECTION 3: PURCHASING/BUYING CLOWNFISH(ES)

Okay, so you've got a reef tank, or you are starting a tank and have been reading and practicing how to keep the salinity constant...temperature constant...pH at correct range levels...etc. Now you decide you want to purchase a clownfish or two to begin with. In the other spectrum, you're an experienced 'reefer'...and are keeping a reef tank or several reef tanks, and would like to add a clownfish or two.

What are your options? There are many species that are easily attainable from the local fish store, local breeder, or online retailers. I will give some information on what to look for in each situation.

Buying from Local Fish Store

I cannot stress this enough, but they are the most obvious choices to get your clownfishes. I would suggest to support your LFS or breeder, as like other specialty stores, none would be around if we do not support them. You've got your mind on a certain species of clownfish--which you decided upon from your tank size (i.e. a Gold Stripe Maroon adult pair should not be in a 10 gallon tank, etc). More specifically, if you have a predator tank, it is just obvious to not place a clown in there, unless it is large and not in the presence of 'clown-eaters' (i.e. lionfish, large eels, etc).

What do I look for?

Many times, local fish stores (LFS, from now) will just stock recent arrivals directly into their display tanks, and while I cringe at their methods, I will tell you now to be patient when picking your clownfishes. The first question I would pose is, "How long has this clownfish/these clownfishes been here?" Shipping is stressful for all animals, and you do NOT want to purchase one that has just been emptied from a shipping bag, into a store's tank water, and then have it packed again for you to put it in totally different water back home. My rule is at least 2 weeks++ before even taking one home from a local fish store. I will discuss tank-raised/captive-bred clownfishes later, but you may ask why wait such a long time if you decide to purchase tank-raised/captive-bred (TR and CB from now on, I will use these two terms interchangeably). The reason is that depending on your LFS, they may stock TR/CB fish together with Wild-Caught (WC from now on) specimens. This means that whilst the TR/CB specimens did not have parasites/diseases upon arrival, they may have, and probably are prone to diseases brought in by WC fishes. Patience is number 1. Better to take home a specimen or specimens that will live rather than die the next day or two.​

Next look for physical problems. I am very picky on this, and would suggest you scrutinize your clownfishes before purchasing them (although hopefully...not to the extent that I do.....:lol: ). Physical problems that are obvious are shredded fins (dorsals, pelvic, etc), including the caudal fin (i.e. tail fin). Shredded fins are signs of deteriorating water quality--high in nitrates, ammonia, and can also mean they have been attacked by another specimen or another fish species, and furthermore they are probably malnourished. Either way, clownfishes with missing parts are more prone to succumb to diseases and especially during the critical period of adjusting to your home tank. Then look at the gill flaps. Are they much more extended, as if they are respirating(breathing) rapidly. Again, deteriorating water quality and clownfishes at this stage are prone to diseases, and while they may not show signs, it may still harbor them. Look for lesions on the surface of their body, cloudy eyes, enlarged eye (one larger than the other). Avoid those with the previous descriptions. Doing your work at the store keeps less work and stress for you at home. Lastly, look for obvious diseases, such as ich, and any distracting surface coloration as it may be signs of disease such as brooklynella (which will be covered in a later section).​

The last thing that people often avoid doing is actually asking the LFS associate/helper to actually feed the fishes before buying. Healthy clowns, even when full, will take a bite of food morsels. If it is full, it will spit it out, which is obvious. Otherwise, they will take it in. I would advise you to avoid clownfishes that do not attempt to grasp food when available. Again, this may carry over to fishes that recently have come in, which will not feed or may not feed until a couple days later of being in the store tank.​

....let's now look at another option...buying from an online-retailer.

Best,

Ilham

(post 5)
 
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wwouu thanks Elmo !
you know you are totally right i never ask the lfs dealer to feed the fish that i'm buying :doubt: .
Anyways, i can't wait to read your next post on on line stores :)
 
Great thread Elmo! You are doing a great job here. I have been going back and forth between threads trying to get this one covered and I have, so I'm up to date. I have two small percs that have the same white bands, but the orange color betwen the two are different. The orange on one of them has a yellowish tint to it compared to the other ones, whose orange looks redder. Would it be a "hybrid" strain of the percula or a totally different percula all together? Sorry if it is not question time yet, but if so, here is the best picture I have so far of the two...

 
krish75 said:
I have two small percs that have the same white bands, but the orange color betwen the two are different. The orange on one of them has a yellowish tint to it compared to the other ones, whose orange looks redder. Would it be a "hybrid" strain of the percula or a totally different percula all together?


HI Krish. I will answer this in a broader term and clarify more later on.

Within this species, especially with tank raised specimens, it is possible that they are many generations old, meaning the parents of your clowns may be brother/sisters, one may have some genes that are related (i.e. may have the same grandparents, etc). Either way, this may change how your ocellaris look. So in one instance, genes can play a role in this. This is where we get into a term i like to call "selective breeding", whereby not certainly hybrids since we are taking two specimens of the same species, but that we 'select' which traits we want to keep and attempt to express that in the future offsprings (i.e. recessive gene). For example, we wanted to make all 'tangerine' colored ocellaris. There is probably a greater chance if both parents are of the 'tangerine' variety. It is a tough call to say whether they are 'color variations', because genes play only part of the role. I am not sure if yours are tank-raised (unless you know), but as I will talk about in a later section, tank-raised ocellaris are no different than wild-caught ocellaris.

I will talk about this later, but diet will affect your clown's coloration as well. IN fact, I think it is the one attribute I relate changing coloration to, more so than genetics.

The other variable is water quality, and condition.

I hope that answered your question. What you can do, is possible change the type of food you feed, or rotate, or try a mixture and see if that will change coloration. Just do not expect a one day, or even a week of their color changing. It does take time.

Best,

Ilham
 
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