building a C2C?

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It's not as difficult as you may think, just build an acrylic box and match up a few holes with an extra bulkhead gasket! I've got a 360 gallon acrylic tank that I bought undrilled with no overflow of any sort (it has a very similar top brace). I added a quasi-coast-to-coast (half of the 8' tank length), and it only took one Saturday and some random tools to build / install it. I also incorporated a drain style from another site (Beananimal overflow). Some photos below, I've had it up and running for about a year and a half now without any problems at all; shoot me a message if you have any questions!


Sketchup design of overflow box
Overflow.jpg


Sketchup design (tank + overflow position)
360g%20Reef%20%28overflow%29.jpg


Overflow built
PICT0521.JPG


Overflow box installed, prior to outdoors wet test
PICT0566.JPG


Drain plumbing
PICT0562.JPG


Final plumbing connected
PICT0640.JPG


Box is barely noticeable after a while
2010-03-31%2018.12.31.jpg


2010-03-31%2018.12.04.jpg
 
Forgot to mention: This type of overflow is completely removable. I haven't had to yet thankfully, but if I need to take it out for some reason I just need to drain the water below the bulkhead line, take off the bulkheads, and the box can lift right out the top for cleaning, repair, etc. I've had to net a couple fish out of there in the last year, but aside from some required hand / eye coordination it's not too difficult.
 
I've built alot of both internal CTC and external ones over the years. Retrofitting into an already built take is a bit more challenging but not impossible.
If you don't want to cut off the top of the tank to cut teeth in the back, you can route out slots and then put a face plate over them. Then build your external boxes and weld them to the back of the tank. You can cut out the current overflow with a demo saw and belt sand the nubs left over.

For internal CTC you just need to make rail boxes with teeth cut in them and notch out your current overflow to drain into.
 
the coast to coast does not have to be the full length of the tank as for the Bowing in the tank if it is not bowed now you should be OK as it is a used tank I would imagine it was full of water Acrylic is not all that forgiving it will still show signs of bow when empty also. I would go external as for prime space in the tank and if you have a 7ft tank I would only go 2-3 ft on one side and you can always place the power heads to the other side for flow pushing toward the box.

and Tom you are correct a euro Brace is solid around the tank with out the center brace in the middle.

adding acrylic to a tank will not degrade the integrity of it. if anything it would help as it is being welded to the top on the seams and adding more support.

how thick is the tank?
 
One thing about a C2C is the more flow through it the better it skims the surface, only issue is most people like slower flow through the sump. If this isn't part of your plan then the two overflow boxes you have is all you need, the difference at slower rates isn't worth it. If this was a new tank then I'd say yea!
 
the surface skimming is one of the main benefits I like, along with , I hear its quieter.

as far as speed of flow in sump...Im still not sure if I am doing a single or dual sump system yet, so that opens up options to control flow in one sump vs the other ie. faster flow thru Skimming sump, with slower flow in refugium.
if I do a single larger volume sump, Ill do a center return chamber with independent overflows to both ends of sump. and again be able to dial the flows to my liking.
 
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