Eric & Becca's 180 build

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Dave I didn't know what your last post meant before....now I am completely confused.:confused: I know big stretch of the imagination....
 
So it is nearing the end of the weekend, we are sure there are some who are expecting an update on the plumbing. Well not to disappoint, we present the plumbing build.

Let us revisit "the master plan". You all need to forget what you saw on the previous master plan. The current plan, which resides in the dark cavernous mind of Eric, we will describe below.

Let us begin with the pump. As you all remember we had to elevate it approx. 14" to accommodate the 2" true union ball valve (aka the master ball valve)

plumbing002.jpg


After the pump (return line) we installed an 1 1/2" combo check valve/true union ball valve

plumbing005.jpg


The pump sitting inside the cabinet(a standard post office box is standing in for a shelve, ingenious....we know)

plumbing011.jpg


The reeflo dart will push all that water up to the manifold(and here there is more revisions), as you will notice there are no seaswirls. They have been eliminated because of space issues and plumbing technicalities. And for those interested they are for sale on the classifieds. The manifold will have 4 sets of 3/4" dual nozzle lock lines each controlled by a ball valve so we can dial back that beast of a pump. This coupled with a MP40 should provide sufficient water movement.

plumbing010.jpg


To accommodate all that water flowing into the sump, we have 2 1" megaflow durso drains that flow into 1" pvc pipes (we have not installed the flex line)

plumbing014.jpg


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So it would seem that we have addressed all the technical issues that plagued this plumbing build and now we can assemble it for real (glue) and test it...IN THE HOUSE....YIKES

It looks like we are within the time frame that was previously mentioned....

Dave you good with all this?????

We always appreciate feedback and if someone sees any flaws with all this, PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE let us know BEFORE we glue(in a few days).
 
Mike your confusion is not unfounded. We listened intently to what Todd had to say, that information swam in our minds(whats left of it at least), had multiple discussions about what Todd said, then did the complete opposite. The results are what you see above.
 
I have no problem as long as you have summited the proper triplicate paper work for the Post office box "shelf"

Looks good, Let us know if the shop vac is put into service during your leak test. lol
 
We did submit it to ourselves. We sent it, reviewed it and approved it all in a matter of minutes.

We were actually going to wait until you were available for the water leak test just so we have an extra set of hands on deck when the moment of truth arrives.
 
I would be honored to be present to witness your dinnigroom chairs floating out the garage door. LOL

As long as the paper work is stamped, all is in order by me.
 
Gonna be soon. Now I find myself not wanting to take it all apart to glue it though. It looks finished just as it is so isn't that good enough?
 
I can tell it is not finished, there is no purple seeping from those joints.

BTW Did I cut the cord access in a bad spot or what?
 
We actually use the clear PVC primer so you don't see all the purple mess. I think the cord access will be fine. Once they are threaded through the you don't mess with them too much anyway. Maybe a powerhead or two for cleaning but that won't even be the case once we go to the MP40. We were thinking end of the week or the weekend anyway. No need to rush. It's already been 9 months as it is. What's a few more days?
 
You are so right a couple more days is no big deal.

ARE YOU KIDDING. That is exactly the attitude Todd is wanting to hear. If you keep that up buster Todd will be feeding fish in his new tank, and you'll be at the plumbing store buying a T to prime your monster pump. lol
 
I think the difference in your return section water height is due to the pipe length the water has to travel. The one on the left has a lot further to travel.
Just a thought
 
I think you might be right Dave. The one with further to travel is running beautifully too. The short one is running with a lot more air and when we extend the drain pipes underwater it creates back pressure and leaks at the point where the drain pipe is pressed into the bulkhead at the top of the sump. It only take a minute or so to have a big puddle on top of the sump drain down the outside. Not good. The only way I have found to stop the back pressure so far is having no discharge pipe under the bulkhead at all and that is a 6"+ fall to the water in the sump with lots of noise and splashing.
 
You could glue it to the bulkhead at that point. Or you can fabricate a ramp that sits right under the discharge pipes and extends below the water line. Not sure how that would work it would be easy to test.
 
Sorry Duplicate post. I tried the ramp and there is way too much flow for that. Not sure what to do at this point.
 
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