Scooterman
Well-known member
I have two 1 1/2" suctions that convert into a 2" supply to the small pump, I need to make one of these also, need some black, that sounds like it would do you better than 4.
Here we go! 336 gal acrylic tank with CL-Suggestions Plse
- Thread starter LCATTIN
- Start date
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LCATTIN
Just a Rookie
Yes, and less plumbing to buy.
LCATTIN
Just a Rookie
We now have holes. This 3/4" acrylic is tough stuff. I broke 2 pilot drills on my hole saw getting those holes in. The 1 3/8" holes weren't bad but the 2 3/8" holes really put the drill to work. I think it was easier drilling glass. Anyhow, here's the photo.
Scooterman
Well-known member
Looking good think the loc-line will cost a small fortune but well worth it!
Congrats, your locked in now!
Congrats, your locked in now!
Reefdaddy1
Reef Geek Jedi
Nice job Les, looks real good man.
Just curious - if you were going to put holes in the back of the tank for the closed loop, why didn't you run the overflow drains out the back as well? That way you could have used shallow overflow boxes and not have those big boxes in the tank.
LCATTIN
Just a Rookie
I bought the tank used and the overflows were already there.
Krish
RF STAFF
Looks great man!!!! I'm jealous
LCATTIN
Just a Rookie
Thanks for all the kind words. I am going to start working on the plumbing tonight if I can as it is supposed to be warm for a few days and I want to get it plumbed and leak tested so that part is finished.
I am still trying to decide if I want to run my sump returns up alongside the Durso's in the overflow or just run it up the back. I prefer my sump return water to enter the tank towards the front to help with that skimming action back towards the overflows.
Les
I am still trying to decide if I want to run my sump returns up alongside the Durso's in the overflow or just run it up the back. I prefer my sump return water to enter the tank towards the front to help with that skimming action back towards the overflows.
Les
Scooterman
Well-known member
I went through the top on my returns but that is more a personal choice, I think leaving room inside the overflows is a good idea, my old ones were tight.
Makes sense.
You might want to think about how much of the future motorized ball valve plumbing you can put in now. Perhaps using a T from the pump, connected with three true-unions to the pump and two sets of closed-loop returns. That way you can swap the motorized ball valve in fairly easily later.
(perhaps use some sections of spa-flex instead of rigid pvc for the sections going to the three unions, so that replacing the T with a motorized ball valve is a bit more forgiving in terms of exact pipe length measurements.)
LCATTIN
Just a Rookie
Don -- That is what I am thinking on the MBV. That's why I am going even simpler for now, though it may cut flow down a bit. I going to use the manifold that came with the pump and hose barb ells on the bulkheads and hose it on for now. Then when I am ready for the MBV it will be easy to remove the fittings and hose and I will have a blank slate to plumb in the valve.
Les
Les
LCATTIN
Just a Rookie
The tank is now plumbed and running with tap water on the patio. One small drip to fix yet and it will be ready to go. The flow is great all the dirt that was in the tank is in suspension and moving around well.
Here's the latest.
Les
Here's the latest.
Les
Krish
RF STAFF
Neat!!! I've never seen outputs done like that before! What size were the outputs again?
LCATTIN
Just a Rookie
3/4" outlets and 2 -1.5" inputs fed into 2" pipe to the pump
Krish
RF STAFF
Very cool man...
LCATTIN
Just a Rookie
Thanks for the comments. I will pump it out tomorrow before it gets cold again. Got do some work in the house now to get ready for it to be put in place. Sure glad my house is on a slab foundation though.
LCATTIN
Just a Rookie
Anyone want to come over and help me rearrange the furniture so I can get this tank inside?? Any takers??
Just to make sure I understand - you are going to replace that white plastic piece with all the hose barbs coming out with the motorized ball valve (with appropriate hose barbs)?
How close to the wall will the tank be? Unless you drain the tank to move it for installing the MBV, you are going to be swearing at yourself later. Your arms won't be long enough to come in from the sides, and the 2x4 supports look like they will prevent you from coming in from the bottom. So from the top it will be! And pulling tubing off a hose barb can be a real b%@$# after the tubing has "formed" to the shape of the hose barb.
At a bare minimum, I would separate those hose barbs into two separate manifolds, and bring large-diameter tubing from those manifolds down into the stand. Join then together with a Y (or a T) in the stand, and then go into your pump with the single tube. That way, later, you can replace the Y with the MBV in the less confined space of the inside of your stand.
