In Wall - going for it! - seeking your ideas/feedback/advice

[Dieselbreath]

I could probably offer some welding if someone needs a bit. I have the ability and knownledge along with tools to weld steel, stainless, and aluminum, along with many others that would not be used for a stand. Cool project I will be watchin in envy since this is my dream also ( wall install).

DB

 

[Scooterman]

If you make a steel frame use box of some sort, the materials should be fairly reasonable in comparing to wood, just need to make accurate cuts, through welds & everything must be square, last you should prime & coat with good quality paints. I wish I made my stand of steel of some sort.

 

[NC2WA]

Scooty,

In one of your previous replies, you recommend a chiller. I am doing the same concept as Ben, but on a larger scale (370g). So, I assume the recommendation of a chiller would still apply. I would like to know how large of a chiller do I need for a 370gallon acrylic tank.

thanks
kirk

 

[Scooterman]

Chiller=plan for it, where will it be located, lines going to it, air space & access for cleaning but you can't size it properly until you get everything running under normal operation & the hottest day to know how much pull down you need for however much gallons you actually have to cool.

JMO again.

You got to run your system with everything to see how hot it will get, lots of things to consider before getting or needing a chiller, I should clarify that plan for a chiller If it would be needed. Most probably with larger systems with or without MH you would use a chiller to stabilize the temperature but not in every case is it required. Also in sizing a chiller you have to compare BTU's, some chillers of the same H.P. size may put out more/less BTU's. So you need to know several things...Worst case heat pull down needed to maintain your desired temperature, amount of water being temp. controlled. With this you need to figure out how many BTU's is needed to to this efficiently, too much HP isn't good it will cycle on off too frequently & too small it will always run. That is why I say you should plan for worst case in heat pull down needed to help size a chiller & to do this you almost need to have it all set-up & running with everything.

 

[rocket]

I see people are not trusting the idea of wood. Steel is going to cost more, cause you a lot more work and you need to be very precise so you get things level and a clean joint. Good luck if you ever need to move or dismantle the stand.
I wonder why people don't build structural steel houses if they don't trust wood! The (4) 4x4 wood posts are already overkill! I cant imagine steel columns. But its your design and you need to keep in mind your own peace of mind and wallet.

 

[JPG@CFI]

I must chime in on the steel stand debate. Steel while more costly than wood, is not prone to rot and failure, leaves more room for access, earthquake proof, and if you use the proper material and coatings will be around far longer than us. Ever seen a wood stand get water logged? I have many times! If you will not see it or it is behind the wall on a flush mount tank, then steel makes a good deal of sense. Just my .02.

Jason
Clear Fabrications, Inc.
worldclassaquariums.com

 

[NC2WA]

Scooty,

I am at a disadvantage as I this will be my first summer in the home I am in. I have no idea how hot it will get in the garage. In NC, it can get well over 120 degrees with the garage closed. I most likely will be added livestock slowly until I can get a better idea of hot it will get in the garage.

Kirk

 

[dragoneggs]

Scooty,

I am at a disadvantage as I this will be my first summer in the home I am in. I have no idea how hot it will get in the garage. In NC, it can get well over 120 degrees with the garage closed. I most likely will be added livestock slowly until I can get a better idea of hot it will get in the garage.

Kirk

Kirk,

Usually around here, the garage will probably be the coolest part of your house unless you have a basement. Of course this depends on your particular house design but I usually keep my garage doors closed and the temp does not fluctuate as much as the house. Probably the big cement floor for thermal mass.

 

[NC2WA]

Mark,

I have a tri-level home so hopefully the garage will be the coolest part of the house.

 

[trido]

When we tried to match its O-ring at Home Depot or Lowes we had no luck.

FWIW Mclendons can make any size of O-ring you need it you can bring in the old one.

 

[dragoneggs]

FWIW Mclendons can make any size of O-ring you need it you can bring in the old one.

Wow!!! Great tip.

 

[class clown]

Well.. I thought I had made a decision on the Aqua Euro 400 classic skimmer, but I'm starting to have second thoughts...

http://reefcentral.com/forums/showth...page number=1
I've been watching this thread and it appears mesh mods don't seem to be doing much b/c of a restrictive venturi. I could buy/make new venturis, but after the mods, we're probably at $100 in parts anyway, not to mention time/effort and risk in doing those mods. Then, I've also heard some gripes about it only being a 4" neck -that i can't fix.

It leads me back to the BM250. BM250 would be my best quality and I know I'd be happy, but it's also $400 more expensive (after factor the mods). With this, I'd be over my budget by just under $1400.

Hmmm...

 

[Jan]

Hmmm....so if you don't buy the BM250 you'd only be over budget by $1,000? Might as well go over budget $1,400.

 

[Skimmy]

yeah, just get it over with. lol

 

[NC2WA]

Ben,

I was in your same situation, and ultimately decided to spend an extra $300 on the H&S skimmer I have. Piece of mind was my ultimate decision, not that the BM250 isn't a good skimmer and I wouldn't be happy with it, rather that I knew more about the H&S and know several reefers back in NC who have them and all give them 5 stars.

As I have said before, the skimmer is one of the most intergal and important parts of equipment you are going to make. The BM250 might be alittle much for your tank, but I would overskim than underskim any day of the week.

 

[class clown]

Mark - So if Jan is the "Queen of Enablers", I guess that makes you the king.

I think I may have found a way to shave off a hundred bucks or so. How easy is it to move an acrylic baffle? Pics and more explanation to come.....

 

[class clown]

so check it out.. the footprint of the BM250 is 15" by 9 1/2. My biggest chamber in my existing sump is 14 X 14 1/2.

How easy is it to move one of the baffles?

 

[trido]

Since no one answered Ill say it. Easy enough. Let me know the approximate sizes you need and Ill bring over the dremel, some scrap acrylic, some glue and an applicator. It will be modded in no time flat. We'll have to use your fancy table saw to cut the exact sizes though.

 

[Skimmy]

and actually the bm250 WILL fit in that chamber, they have changed the footprint slightly, it's 14.2 x 9.5

 

[class clown]

and actually the bm250 WILL fit in that chamber, they have changed the footprint slightly, it's 14.2 x 9.5

Whoaaaa... now we're talkin'. Excellent. Now just need them to change that price and we'd really be in business

I just posted some requests on the equipment forum fishing for any slightly used or new gear. I'm hoping my cast turns up worthwhile. We'll soon find out.