In Wall - going for it! - seeking your ideas/feedback/advice

[class clown]

Paul pointed me to some good example of what the 4 way OM looks like attached to the pump: http://www.oceansmotions.com/plumbingC4.htm

he also shared with me what the bulkheads on the bottom of the tank w/ nozzles could look like (they are 1 inchers). Desregard the electrical motor underneath, just focus on the ball valve w/ attachment coming out. The thrid pic from the top is what I'd probably have for nozzles in the back. The second pic is what I'd have for nozzles in the front. http://www.oceansmotions.com/bb.htm


And here is a drawing that I made to illustrate the barreling effect he suggested.

pretty interesting ehh?

K.. now back to the drawing board for some more details...isn't planning fun? :shock: :shock:

I'm glad I talked with him though.

 

[Scooterman]

I use the Sequence 4200sw series, It puts out more than the Dart with the same motor, the pump is just bigger, consumes only .3 amps more. My tank is 4ft long, if it was 6ft I'd go either two or one bigger, Do the math on power consumption first to decide, having two is a good redundancy. I wouldn't use Sch. 80 ball valves on anything, not worth it. The suctions for the CL should be closer so you can make a nice box for the spread of flow & save on plumbing space, don't go too high because you can cavitate the pump & that is bad, will burn it.

 

[CarlaW]

Ok but if the wide out runs a post instead of a hook I think you would free up the running back for a nice little screen pass

Only if the defense runs a blitz.

 

[class clown]

I use the Sequence 4200sw series, It puts out more than the Dart with the same motor, the pump is just bigger, consumes only .3 amps more. My tank is 4ft long, if it was 6ft I'd go either two or one bigger, Do the math on power consumption first to decide, having two is a good redundancy. I wouldn't use Sch. 80 ball valves on anything, not worth it. The suctions for the CL should be closer so you can make a nice box for the spread of flow & save on plumbing space, don't go too high because you can cavitate the pump & that is bad, will burn it.

Pump cavitation ehh? what the heck is that? and how high is too high?

Here's where I'm at so far.. still need to figure out where the return goes.

 

[class clown]

and this shows the main return at the front top of the tank pushing water towards the back.

Note: I took out the drains/outlets on the back wall for this illustration b/c it got to busy, but they are really still there.

This is what completes the barrel and provides surface agitation so I ge the rippling effect w/ my halides.

 

[class clown]

Lastly - from the side, you'd basically see 3 outlets on either side and a drain

• Against the overflow have 2 1" outlets & 2 1 1/2" drains for the CL
• On the bottom front of the tank, I'll have 2 1" outlets for the CL
• On the top of the tank, I have a 3/4" return pushing water back towards the overflow & creating surface tension (for this I'd probably use locline w/ 2 fans nozzles)

thoughts? comments? suggestions? It just feels light to me, but then again, what do I know. this is my first closed loop.

 

[Scooterman]

Sorry for saying this but how are you going to go through the false wall again? That area will be tight, If you were to change that a little like, make an overflow box right down the middle & the coast to coast up top & the rest would be open, you will skim the same amount of surface area & it wold be easier to plumb, although still tight. This is a very complicated design, LOL no offense I'm just trying to keep up with the changes & yea It isn't clear on how you plan on getting all of the these fittings plumbed. I would just want a through understanding on how this thing is going to work. You can gain more tank room also by saving that wall space, think about how you will clean it also?

Is this a 6ft or 4ft tank, did you confirm that somewhere & I missed it?

 

[class clown]

Dangit Scooty

I know, my drawrings are lame. I've called in for backup from Rocket, we'll see if he can hook me up with some better one's

It's 4 ft x 4 ft x 2ft

I talked to Jason (the builder) who said the continuous overflow would be ~ 4" from the back of the tank. yes, it'll be tight, but I don't think terribly difficult and definatley not inpossible to make it happen. the drains would look like so:

The two CL outputs would look similar, and like so:

 

[Scooterman]

4" should be enough, you may have to thread in the elbow into the BH then tighten it down but it should work, for the 1 1/2" pieces. I see your coming from the bottom so that helps also. 48" long is a ways across so yea you will need enough umph to move the the water across!

 

[class clown]

I'm thinking I may save a couple bucks by just using 1" bulkheads all around instead of the 1 1/2". I'm going redundant drains for the return and redundant drains for the CL anyway, so why not back them down to 1".

 

[Scooterman]

If you don't go with 1 1/2" on the drains & the CL returns you'll be sorry, two 1" drains don't add up to 1 1 1/2" drain!

 

[mattseattle]

Yeah, I'd definitely stick with 1.5" drains and CL intakes. You don't want any chance of your intake on your pump not having enough water.

 

[class clown]

OK.. thx.. no on the CL for sure, but are you sure about the drain lines for the return?

I could probably get away w/ 1" on the return drains right? It's only one single 3/4" leading up to the display from my 3/4" so two 1" that T or Y into a single 1" pipe shoudl be fine. Or am I way off basis there too?

 

[NC2WA]

Ben,

Just curious..what is the price difference between using 1" vs 1 1/2 inch bulkheads?

 

[class clown]

Ben,

Just curious..what is the price difference between using 1" vs 1 1/2 inch bulkheads?

Well.. it's not just the bulkhead.. remember, there are fittings, ballheads, PVC, strainers, etc that go along with it.. all are a couple extra bucks.

1 inch Tank Adapter NEW STYLE (Bulkhead) FPT x FPT schedule 80 Spears = Price = $24.99
1 inch Intake Screen M.P.T = Price $2.99
GF+ true union 1 inch ball valve. Georg Fischer H20 = Price $21.99

Vs.

1 1/2 inch Tank Adapter Bulkhead FPT x FPT = Price $36.99
1-1/2 inch Intake Screen MPT = Price $3.99
+GF+ true union 1-1/2 inch ball valve. Georg Fischer =Price $26.99

it can add up very quickly I've found.

 

[class clown]

Anothe plus for 1" drain on the return is that I can use these little baby's. They are low profile Elbow's so they'll easily fit in the overflow. i couldn't find them in the 1 1/2" size.

 

[trido]

Here are some basic gravity flow ratings for a return pump GPH reference

Stand pipe Size Gravity Flow Rating
3/4" 330 gph
1" 600 gph
1 1/4" 910 gph
1 1/2" 1300 gph
1 3/4" 1800 gph
2" 2350 gph
2 1/4" 2960 gph
2 1/2" 3650 gph
2 3/4" 4450 gph
3" 5280 gph

Of course, these are gravity flow ratings so it isnt critical. Why dont you put all of your bulkheads on the back wall a little higher and just use standard bulkheads and then use pvc pipe painted black to lower the intakes. On a back wall four feet from the front of the display it wont really be that noticable IMO. Also, if you use a recirc skimmer you arent going to want to run 2000GPH through it anyway. About 5-600GPH would probably be plenty. 1" drains for the dursos would likely be just fine.

 

[Scooterman]

http://www.marinedepot.com/md_viewItem.asp?idproduct=FT1147

17.99 1 1/2" BH HD

 

[Scooterman]

That little puppy will reduce your flow rate also, a good bit!

Anothe plus for 1" drain on the return is that I can use these little baby's. They are low profile Elbow's so they'll easily fit in the overflow. i couldn't find them in the 1 1/2" size.

 

[NC2WA]

Quickly adding your numbers, you are roughly saving $120.00 and losing 700gph in flow.**

** Using Trido numbers, 1=600gph; 1 1/2=1300

I don't know if it is worth the savings, IMHO.
I would want the extra flow.