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Ok so you take a measure of where the air and water mix (basically the whole skimmer where water, air and both are in), then you turn off the air and see if the column goes down about a 1/4.


That REALLY cuts down the amount of air.

So if the water sits at 1/4" above the ring, and the air water mix is only a 1/4" above that, then the foam head has to rise the rest of the way up the transition which is 2-1/2" and then the 6-1/2" of the neck for a total of 9".
That seem right?
 
I think I didnt make that as clear as I could so let me try that one again. So the skimmer mixing chamber stands 14 inches tall, and the transition sits another 2.5 above that, so a total of 18.5 inches. So if we say that a good starting point (air/water mix) is for around 25% air and 75% water. Translating that to the skimmer would mean that the water only level should be about 4 inches down from the bottom of the neck, or an inch to two inches below the black ring. Then when you turn on the air the water/air mix will go all the way up to the start of the neck at the top of the transition section. (this pertains for all skimmers).

So this is where we like to have a start point and then its just a matter of dialing in the final. Every tank is going to produce differently and at somewhat different times through out the day. After the tank recovers from a lack of light (as in photosysnthesis and its biproducts stop) a skimmer will begin to produce more, Also most things bloom or spawn in the dark person. Also alot have to do with the type of foods that you feed and the contents of that food. So what all that means is that the rules then act as a guide line and the tank dictates the final adjustments.

If you wish feel free to call me at 425-466-9854


MIke
 
Are they set to be the correct mix of air/water if run without anything restricting the water or air flow in? Basically, is that ratio set up right from the factory or does it require input from the end user (i.e. valves on the air and water inlets).
 
One other thing that I was wondering about was the size of the bubbles.
I seem to have more than just a few bubbles in the 1/4" range.
Seems kind of big.
 
You can see all the larger bubbles



r94t.jpg
 
That's pretty much what mine looks like. I've found that I have to have the water level with the air off at least half way up the cone to get much skimming. But I don't have much bio-load.
 
Well any bubble bigger than a pencil dot is too big.

I have the water level above the cone by 3/4" and I am getting almost zero skimate with a moderately packed 240.
When I raise the water level up any higher I push it past the tipping point and the cup fills with weak tea water.
 
I'm wondering if you raised the water level in the cone and cut back on the air? Mojo's comment about the bubbles popping together and dropping the organics has me thinking about that. I've always had mine pretty much running full blast (air).
 
Marty I am having a hard time following, so your saying the water level is 3/4 pas the cone as in up the neck?? or just past the black ring?
 
I'm wondering if you raised the water level in the cone and cut back on the air? Mojo's comment about the bubbles popping together and dropping the organics has me thinking about that. I've always had mine pretty much running full blast (air).



The large bubbles are coming right out of the air stone.
 
Mine is at least 1-1/2" above the black ring. I don't get any skimmate if it's any lower. But maybe my air is too strong. Mike?
 
Marty that looks to be to much air and its driving through the stone to hard. The pore size on the stone is 1 micron and below so thats telling me we need to turn that air pump down a little,
 
Marty that looks to be to much air and its driving through the stone to hard. The pore size on the stone is 1 micron and below so thats telling me we need to turn that air pump down a little,

Even though I did find a needle valve, I'm a little leary of using it very much.
 
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