Roscoe's 270g build

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Hey thanks again for the kind words everyone! I'm wondering if the whole bottom glass can be replaced? I'm looking at the plastic brace around the tank and it looks like seperate pieces cut to size and then glued togther. Does anyone know where to get the material for the bracing? I think i know where to get a new glass panel.
 
Go to the PSAS board and ask Luke (Liveforphysics). He would know exactly what to do and how to replace and brace that panel.
 
Go to the PSAS board and ask Luke (Liveforphysics). He would know exactly what to do and how to replace and brace that panel.

Thanks Susie! He is going to be at the PSAS frag swap right? I'll PM him on PSAS and talk to him if he is goin gto the meeting.
 
Thanks Susie! He is going to be at the PSAS frag swap right? I'll PM him on PSAS and talk to him if he is goin gto the meeting.

In his heart he is going, but he works nights and waking up for a midday meeting can be a problem for him. The last two meetings he's made have only been because I was pounding on his door and picked him up... might have to do it again for this one.
 
In his heart he is going, but he works nights and waking up for a midday meeting can be a problem for him. The last two meetings he's made have only been because I was pounding on his door and picked him up... might have to do it again for this one.


Oh Ok I thought he posted on PSAS that he was going to be there.
 
I have repaired tank bottoms and found the only way to be safe is to glue a second piece of glass on top of the cracked one, inside the tank. Be sure to clean all the silicone away first to ensure a smooth fit. Works perfect. The cracked first layer just acts as support for the one on top which holds the water. Has to be 100% dry and clean to work well. Do not be afraid of having a nice bead of silicone in the bottom joints.
 
I have repaired tank bottoms and found the only way to be safe is to glue a second piece of glass on top of the cracked one, inside the tank. Be sure to clean all the silicone away first to ensure a smooth fit. Works perfect. The cracked first layer just acts as support for the one on top which holds the water. Has to be 100% dry and clean to work well. Do not be afraid of having a nice bead of silicone in the bottom joints.

That was what I was thinking about too. Would you have to remove all the silicone in all the joints of the original glass? It seems easy enough to do. Just a little labor.How thick would the new glass need to be? I can get a 1/2'' thick panel for $200
 
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Oh Ok I thought he posted on PSAS that he was going to be there.


Like I said, in his heart he is planning to come. Waking up and getting there is a different story. I do know that he totally WANTS to come though. I'll be in Kent that morning for my daughter's soccer game, so I'll probably swing by and get him.
 
That was what I was thinking about too. Would you have to remove all the silicone in all the joints of the original glass? It seems easy enough to do. Just a little labor.How thick would the new glass need to be? I can get a 1/2'' thick panel for $200

I have used as thin as 1/4 on a large tank. Theoretically, you could use 1/8" if the bottom was supported well enough. 1/2" would be a wonderful repair. The silicone in the old joints is fine but make sure there is none holding the layers of glass apart. You want the new second layer to lay completely flat and sealed to the existing one and to the sides to prevent any stress. If thin glass is used for the repair, best to never move the tank when it isn't supported by some plywood.
 
I have used as thin as 1/4 on a large tank. Theoretically, you could use 1/8" if the bottom was supported well enough. 1/2" would be a wonderful repair. The silicone in the old joints is fine but make sure there is none holding the layers of glass apart. You want the new second layer to lay completely flat and sealed to the existing one and to the sides to prevent any stress. If thin glass is used for the repair, best to never move the tank when it isn't supported by some plywood.

Would two 1/4'' panels work better one on top and one on bottom than one 1/2'' panel just on top.
 
Would two 1/4'' panels work better one on top and one on bottom than one 1/2'' panel just on top.

The added glass accomplishes two purposes. One is to hold the water in the tank while supported. The second is to support the bottom glass when moving or under pressure if open on a stand.

The 1/4" layor added under the bottom wouldn't accomplish all that much, less than plywood would. The one on top is what seals the tank. The water pressure makes the seals tighter on the added glass inside the tank. If it failed due to poor cementing, the bottom one would probably fail due to water pressure pushing it away. Either use 1/4 inch glass inside with the tank sitting on plywood, or use the 1/2" piece well cemented to the bottom of the tank.
 
The added glass accomplishes two purposes. One is to hold the water in the tank while supported. The second is to support the bottom glass when moving or under pressure if open on a stand.

The 1/4" layor added under the bottom wouldn't accomplish all that much, less than plywood would. The one on top is what seals the tank. The water pressure makes the seals tighter on the added glass inside the tank. If it failed due to poor cementing, the bottom one would probably fail due to water pressure pushing it away. Either use 1/4 inch glass inside with the tank sitting on plywood, or use the 1/2" piece well cemented to the bottom of the tank.

The stand that it is on is a solid top. This sounds and looks like to be a easy fix. It is just the thought in the back of my mind of having 400g of water on the house floor. Its $1900 to replace the tank with a new one or $200-$300 to patch it up. I sure don't have $1900 right now LOL.
 
Be sure to LIGHTLY sandpaper the edges off if they come still sharp or handling the heavy sheet can create some nasty cuts even with leather gloves. Also use aquarium rated silicone, many here can suggest brands.
 
If I do decide to patch it with another piece of glass. I will get the glass edge flat polished so it won't be sharp or should I not do that?
 
Depends on price. Polishing not needed, just make sure no raw edges when handling. Those suction cups are awesome. Danno has some sets, bet he would be willing to loan them for a frag
 
Depends on price. Polishing not needed, just make sure no raw edges when handling. Those suction cups are awesome. Danno has some sets, bet he would be willing to loan them for a frag

I got a quote from sunrise glass which is by far the cheapest place as I contacted 20+ differnt glass shop they are any where from 25% to 60% cheaper than all the other place I called. Any how for a 1/2'' polished edge is $214 and unpolished $175 and the 1/4'' is $119 polished edge and $81 bucks out the door.
 
OK I think I'm going to glue another sheet of 3/8'' ($150 out the door)thick glass Mike. I don't know exactly what type of silicone I would use for that. I know I use GE 1 or 2 to glue on the baffles and it holds pretty strong. I'm not sure if I can use that same type of silicone to glue the new glass. I figured I'd empty the tank take off the OFB clean and dry the tank up real nice. After all nice and dry slap on the silicone on top of the tank bottom and slide the new glass sheet over it and silicone the seams and joints gererously and spread the silicone tapered out about an ince on the back wall and surface of the new glass sheet. So this way I think the new glass sheet is now bonded and part of the bottom pane of the tank and I think this will strenthen the integrity of the tank maybe? What does everyone think?
 
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