DonW
R.I.P.
Yup, the sump matches the stand so that it looks like it is part of it rather than in it.
Don
Don
Tank stand (woodworking)
- Thread starter DonW
- Start date
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Boomer
Well-known member
Don how soon before it is all done 
You are like that buddy of mine that I go RV'ing with, way to many power tools. Every storage box in the RV is wood power tools. When we went on that fishing trip he found some "Diamond Willow" and that ended fishing
You are like that buddy of mine that I go RV'ing with, way to many power tools. Every storage box in the RV is wood power tools. When we went on that fishing trip he found some "Diamond Willow" and that ended fishing
DonW
R.I.P.
Don how soon before it is all done
Stand and sump should be done in the next couple of evenings. I want to spray on sat if the RH is low enough.
Don
DonW
R.I.P.
This is the switch panel. It will give off and on control to everything, return pump, skimmer, halides....... This gets counter sank into the lower shelf hidden out of view but easily accesible.
DonW
R.I.P.
I got very little done over the weekend, decided to go to the aquarium instead of working.
Here is what I did get done. The sump is recessed into the side of the stand like a big mortise. I need to finish the top.
The bigest reason behind recessing the the sump is to make the sump and the stand "one". I always seem to have spills that run down the sides or back of my sump. With this there will be no way for that to happen, all three sides and bottom of the sump will be bonded to the stand walls with waterproof adhesive. The top veneer layer will be cut in sloping manner so that any spill will run back to the sump openings, much like you would do a concrete floor with a drain.
I finished cutting up all the electrical wires and will start burrying them in the back wall and floor tonight. I'm using 12g for the main power wires on two circuits. The wire will be set in a 3/8 deap dado covered in epoxy then reinlayed with maple to hide everything. The only visible wires will be in the dry section of the sump.
I also made a design change to the doors. I ordered up some distressed glass since the doors will twice as wide as they are tall. In the mean time I'm gong to have a glass blower mix colored glass and then lay it out flat to replace the distressed glass. I can then have that cut down and tempered. Should look real nice.
I also ordered two of the fans pictured below. Since the back of the tank is black all 8 fans will be recessed in to the back blowing right over the water. I'll probably have to repaint them to hide that ugly logo but shouldnt be to difficult. They are 110v and will be powered by the ranco so that when the heat is on they will turn off.
The last set of fans are the ones I ordered to go into the light fixture. They are 110v blow out fans. They will be controlled by a thermostat insided the light fixture.
Here is what I did get done. The sump is recessed into the side of the stand like a big mortise. I need to finish the top.
The bigest reason behind recessing the the sump is to make the sump and the stand "one". I always seem to have spills that run down the sides or back of my sump. With this there will be no way for that to happen, all three sides and bottom of the sump will be bonded to the stand walls with waterproof adhesive. The top veneer layer will be cut in sloping manner so that any spill will run back to the sump openings, much like you would do a concrete floor with a drain.
I finished cutting up all the electrical wires and will start burrying them in the back wall and floor tonight. I'm using 12g for the main power wires on two circuits. The wire will be set in a 3/8 deap dado covered in epoxy then reinlayed with maple to hide everything. The only visible wires will be in the dry section of the sump.
I also made a design change to the doors. I ordered up some distressed glass since the doors will twice as wide as they are tall. In the mean time I'm gong to have a glass blower mix colored glass and then lay it out flat to replace the distressed glass. I can then have that cut down and tempered. Should look real nice.
I also ordered two of the fans pictured below. Since the back of the tank is black all 8 fans will be recessed in to the back blowing right over the water. I'll probably have to repaint them to hide that ugly logo but shouldnt be to difficult. They are 110v and will be powered by the ranco so that when the heat is on they will turn off.
The last set of fans are the ones I ordered to go into the light fixture. They are 110v blow out fans. They will be controlled by a thermostat insided the light fixture.
Scooterman
Well-known member
Nice work, where did you find the fans? Let us know how they work out & how quite/loud they are.
When I made my stand, I sealed it completely, then I siliconed the entire sump to the stand, water won't go under it. I also siliconed the entire stand to the floor which is glued & siliconed in case water would ever spill for some reason, it would drain away toward the outside door, so far it seems to be fine, I hope I don't have to really test it out ever but you know how things happen.
When I made my stand, I sealed it completely, then I siliconed the entire sump to the stand, water won't go under it. I also siliconed the entire stand to the floor which is glued & siliconed in case water would ever spill for some reason, it would drain away toward the outside door, so far it seems to be fine, I hope I don't have to really test it out ever but you know how things happen.
DonW
R.I.P.
The first set of fans are THESE
The second set are THESE
Ive heard both of them running in my brothers sound studio. The ones that go over the tank are more than acceptable in terms of noise. The ones for the fixture have to be mounted as blow out fans or they are loud. They will be silent once in the fixture since its 5/8" thick.
Don
The second set are THESE
Ive heard both of them running in my brothers sound studio. The ones that go over the tank are more than acceptable in terms of noise. The ones for the fixture have to be mounted as blow out fans or they are loud. They will be silent once in the fixture since its 5/8" thick.
Don
DonW
R.I.P.
This is the basic design I'm wanting for the glass doors, of course laid out flat. I'm waiting for this guy to get back to me. My guess is is will take awhile so thats why I ordered the temporary glass.
Scooterman
Well-known member
man I'm starting to be anxious about this tank build, haven't seen anything quite like it for sure.
Damsel13
Well-known member
O.K. This will be very interesting. I'm a hitch hicker on this thread....(as long as you give us some pictures now and then).
DonW
R.I.P.
Time for some wire. This is the back of the stand and 12g wire for the halides and fans.
Scooterman
Well-known member
Don, will you be able to ever access this wire or not really necessary? That sure isn't much compared to most tanks
That is wonderful the way you cover up the wires Don. The sump is incredible!
DonW
R.I.P.
Don, will you be able to ever access this wire or not really necessary? That sure isn't much compared to most tanks
I can access either end if need be. This just eliminates cords hanging all over the place with drip loops. These take the place of two normal cords.
Don
DonW
R.I.P.
Thank you, I like the way its turning out, sure is a shame it has to have plumbing sticking out of it. I'm afraid I may have to find another source for fuge lighting. Once the top is covered the spot light isnt going to do much of anything. I'll power it up and experiment tonight.
Don
DonW
R.I.P.
dual optical ato
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Scooterman
Well-known member
Don how do you mount that & is it for sale? I'm ready for it! What else is required to make it work? That looks epoxy (or something) sealed right?
I'm ready for it! What else is required to make it work? That looks epoxy (or something) sealed right?
Krish
RF STAFF
Still tagging along...Things are looking great Don
DonW
R.I.P.
Don how do you mount that & is it for sale?
Its potted in epoxy so it can go right in the sump. Mounting is easy, The back cover is tapped with two 1/4 20 holes or the cord itself will fit in a jg fitting for hanging and adjusting.
It will directly switch anything low voltage up to 1a. Its going in my sump and the solenoid and power supply are in my laundry room next to the rodi.
These are the ones I designed to use the 9vdc tunze osmolator pump. A simple relay patch cord will let it control a regular powerhead.
I need to do the cycle testing before they go up for sale. The dry testing is done now I'll start the wet. Should have 10k cycles in about a week.
Don
DonW
R.I.P.
I spent yesterday digging the hole for the sewer tap. Today I finish up the elecrtrical and plumbing into the stand and sump so I can get the final assembly done. This is taking me much longer than expected just sitting around pondering ideas about how to avoid plumbing and wiring.
The electrical including ato wires are now integral to the stand and sump, I hook them all up when the time comes. What you see in the pics is the underside of the stand. The dark line in the wood is the channel that the wires are fed through to the sump. Just like the photos of the back posted earlier. The back wires and underside wires all converge in the the half circle under the stand. This is it thats all there is, no cords running all over the place. The bottom of the stand sits about 5" off the floor so I didnt want any visible wires or plumbing.
The electrical including ato wires are now integral to the stand and sump, I hook them all up when the time comes. What you see in the pics is the underside of the stand. The dark line in the wood is the channel that the wires are fed through to the sump. Just like the photos of the back posted earlier. The back wires and underside wires all converge in the the half circle under the stand. This is it thats all there is, no cords running all over the place. The bottom of the stand sits about 5" off the floor so I didnt want any visible wires or plumbing.
