Thinking of Running Ozone

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how about a workshop on properly setting up Ozone, along with an outline of risks and benefits? Our two learned elders (mojo and Boomer) with their combined decades of ozone experience, should be fine canidates to lead said workshop.... :D

MikeS
 
Ahh Boomer has forgotten more then I know. What say you Boomer???? got some time for a quickie workshop??


Mike
 
mojoreef said:
Ahh cool, I was thinking the same thing. I would hate to see those puppies take another hit. Good luck

Mike

ROTFLMAO
That's what happens when you trade Spinach for Oliveoil.. At least I still have me good tobackey ;)
 
A couple of other questions:

1. Do you need an air pump to supply air to the ozonizer? If so, how do you size what air pump you need for this application?

2. Can you use a brass tee to tee in the ozone with the skimmer air inlet? Would brass be harmful? If so, where can I get a durable tee fitting for this application?

Thanks
 
For me I used an Enlay Ozone unit.. Extremely cheap but they seem to create a lot of Electrical noise... The one I got has a built in pump on it so it was quite easy...

AS for the Tee I read that jon Guest fittings were pretty tollerent so I got one of them for my tee and used the hose supplied with the unit...

http://www.enaly.com/

or

http://www.ozone.enaly.com/

But I am still all new to ozone myself... But thanks to this thread it sparked my interest enough to actually go out and get one LOL

James
 
Here's a crazy question. Why are certain plastics ozone safe, and some aren't? I'm just thinking about the comment on making sure your skimmer is safe to use with ozone.
 
So what are the REAL benifets for a ozone generator?

-Cleaner water (Im sure the SPS will enjoy that) - but does that mean better polyp extention?

-better oxygen exchange

-less DOCs

-more active skimmer

-anything else?

how does one size the 03 to the tank size? I have 250 gallons of water which unit should i be looking at?

Im all sorts of confused
 
MDM & Nikki

1. Do you need an air pump to supply air to the ozonizer? If so, how do you size what air pump you need for this application?


Well, I advise to use one. The only other way is venturi action from venturi action skimmers. The issue here is you do not have a clue what the flow rate is. But allot of people do it this way which is fine. The pump size depends on the size of the ozone unit. Go to the Sander's link I posted above, they give ozone unit size base on net water volume and pumps size in l / hr required for each ozone unit they make. I would suggest getting a pump with a control dial on it if you go pump.

2. Can you use a brass tee to tee in the ozone with the skimmer air inlet? Would brass be harmful? If so, where can I get a durable tee fitting for this application?

Yes you can but it is not the greatest thing. I just addressed this on our chem forum and Grim threw some things in. I also posted some links on what zone affects. This is the thread in short.

My ozone gen melted my last plastic tee (which was sold as ozone safe) and until I can find some better ones I have used a brass tee and brass hose barb. Will the ozone / air mix flowing thru the brass cause a copper problem ?
Thanks
Carson

I am assuming you are using a Tee to sidestream feed your existing skimmer air intake with pumped ozone (not sucked).

Get oversized tees, they need to be large enough to fit your ozone tubing (teflon, neoprene, tygon, etc) *INSIDE* the tee snug. What you do is slip the ozone feed into the perpendicular leg of the tee, slip the airline feed for the skimmer into one of the other legs, the airline feed of the skimmer should also be made of ozone resistant tubing. Be sure when you fit the tubing inside the Tee you don't block off any other end of the tee.

Also, standard Nylon tees should last relatively long when used with ozone, are you using some kind of aquarium airline tee?
Grim

After reading that article from Boomer, it is a wonder that there is anything left that is not melted. I printed the list of ozone compatibility and will try to find some fittings that should be ok.

Grim in your reply you mentioned that the ozone supply was pumped not sucked. The way I have it now is the hose from the Venturi goes in the bottom of the tee with the ozone being sucked in the side fitting of the tee and an needle valve on the top. With the air free flowing thru the ozone gen I still have control of the fresh air going thru the needle valve. This configuration seems to be working (should it not ?)
Also the way I read your idea is that the tubing is to go inside the tee and not on the outside of the tee where the barbs are. Is this correct, I would assume that this would reduce the area of the tee exposed to the ozone ??
The plastic tees that melted were sold to me as polycarbonate which should be good as per the chart from Boomer but I have no way to know if it actually was that material.
Thanks for the help
Carson



Boomer

Here is more on the reaction of ozone with various materials. As far as the corrosion of brass goes and entering the aquarium it may depend on air flow and can small pieces maybe "blown" into the water through the air line. A post brass fitting air filter should stop this

Materials affected by ozone
http://palimpsest.stanford.edu/waac/wn/wn07/wn07-3/wn07-302.html


A list of ozone materials and their rating. PLEASE check all the links on this website there is lots there on ozone, ie., air flow, diffusers, venturi, ozone chemistry, etc, etc,. ;)
http://www.ozoneapplications.com/info/ozone_compatible_materials.htm

Nickle plated metals are also inactive to Ozone. There are lots of ozone companies that use brass fittings but it is all not that good


Spood

-Cleaner water (Im sure the SPS will enjoy that) - but does that mean better polyp extention?

YES, WHICH GIVES BETTER LIGHT PENETRATION

-better oxygen exchange

NO, NO REALLY. O3 DOES NOT EFFECT THE O2 ALL THAT MUCH

-less DOCs

YES BUT GAG CAN DO THAT ALSO, SAME FOR CLEARED WATER

-more active skimmer

YES TO A SLIGHT DEGREE BUT IF THE OZONE IS CRANKED UP TO MUCH IT WILL BE LESS AS THE SURFACE TENSION WILL CHANGE

-anything else?

how does one size the 03 to the tank size? I have 250 gallons of water which unit should i be looking at?

GO TO THE Sanders LINK I POSTED UP THE THREAD IT IS ALL THERE.

All of you should think about a ORP controller. Make sure you use an air dryer and post treat all water with GAG. Make sure all fittings leaving the ozonizer can not be knocked off and are protected from you, kids, dogs, cat etc.. Use the right materials, start slow with the unit. Inspect all connections once a month. Ozonizers also have to be cleaned. Sanders units come with such cleaning equipment. Make sure there is a GAG cup on the skimmer air vent.


Here is the Sander's link again :D

http://www.aqua-sander.de/index.en.html

A note;

Ozone dial settings are based on net gals. The range of that is .2- .5 mg / gal Ozone. Meaning if you have 90 net gals, then .2 x 90 t0 . 5 x 90 or the dial should be set from 18mg - 45 mg. But remember that temp, moisture and air flow are at ideal so usually the level is bumped up at tad. Reason for a controller , so YOU KNOW WHAT YOU ARE DOING :D You do not want to EXCEED 450 mV ORP
 
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I’ve been struggling with the O3 subject for months now. I have done a lot of reading and now I have my own unit to install.
I just hooked up a RedSea 200mg/hr unit with controller. I have a few questions that have me scratching my head. My tank has a total volume of about 110-120G. The unit is not pumped but venturi driven.
I followed the directions and set the unit to dose 40mg/hr.
My dilemma is when I first connected the unit the ORP probe was reading 88mV.
I recall reading even though this is an old chart…

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Very little will be alive : below 100 millivolt
Very Bad : below 140 millivolt
Bad : 140 to 180 millivolt
Poor : 180 to 200 millivolt
Too Low : 200 to 220 millivolt
New salt water : 220 to 240 millivolt
Low : 220 to 270 millivolt
Medium : 270 to 310 millivolt
Good : 310 to 340 millivolt
Better : 340 to 360 millivolt
Best : 360 to 390 millivolt
High : 390 to 450 millivolt
Too high : over 450 millivolt
Dangerous : over 525 millivolt
Very dangerous : over 575 millivolt
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~


Ok so is the probe way off? Could my tank be that low? I have been very busy and that means lazy about maintenance but the corals look fine???
Any thought suggestions?
I ran it for just s few hours and the ORP went to 99. Because it was so low I just set the cut off point to 125. I didn’t want to shock the system by raising it to fast.
So another question is how fast can I safely raise it?
TIA
S
 
I see you have beeen to my old buddies website ;) Some probes require a break in period before they read right. Did you read Randy's artilce on ORP

ORP and the Reef Aquarium
http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2003-12/rhf/feature/index.htm

No your tank is not that low, things would be dead.

Who's meter and probe do you have. Is it running on batteries or AC. If batteries change them, if AC go to battery mode, which kills RF interference.. Fresh IO runs about 275 mV.

Do you have any calibration solutions or check it solutions ? Try celaning the probe in pH 4 calibration solution or a water/vinegar solution with pH about 4, then rinse with distilled water or RO/DI. Get some topical H2O2, hydrogen peroxide, 2 % . Fill a glass with tap water and put the probe in and add a drop of the H2O2, the reading should go up. Have the probe in the middle of the glass with the probe tip 1 " off the bottom. Also try a glass of tank water.

Also where is the probe sitting ? Any trapped air or bubbles there ? High currents ? Re-check connections

Read all of Randy's article :D
 
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I read the article and I’m still trying to get my head around it. I suck at chemistry. I know what the levels should be and generally how to correct them but the actual chemical reactions always throws me for w loop.

The meter and probe are brand new from Red Sea. Seen here…
http://www.marinedepot.com/md_viewItem.asp?idproduct=RS3655

It is running on AC and there is no battery option that I saw in the manual.
I will order the calibration solution ASAP and try the hydrogen peroxide on Sunday if I can. Till then I will leave it off.

The probe is in the overflow box so yes I’m sure there is some air but I put it down low so it isn’t in the middle of visible bubbles. Now that I think of it I just sunk it in there. Maybe there is a bubble stuck in there. I never inverted it so I will try that in the morning.
Thanks for the info.
I will now go and red the article again for the umpteenth time.
S
 
The probe is in the overflow box

Not a good place at all, to much current air pockets and bubbles. Hang it in the tank in a low flow area. Some sumps, like MTC, have built in probe boxes that get their own water from the overflow box, all nice and contolled ;)
 
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When I first hooked up my Red Sea 200 mg ozone generator and probe, the ORP of my 60 gal seahorse tank + 22 gal refugium registered only 65. Everything was happy and healthy. It took about 4-5 days to reach 300, and now struggles to stay above 290 with all the mysis shrimp the seahorses miss.
 
I have no experince with ozone in aquarium. I do however have experince with it in the home. Had a house fire, not to bad but enough to smoke damage everything. The cleanup company brought in a industrial ozone machine and closed up the house and ran it for one week. They of course told me to stay out of the house. LOL I am super stupid and hard headed. I wanted something, so I went home and opened the front door and went inside, I have to say it was a enlighting experince. My first breath was not that bad, just a little tingle, then it got much worse. My nose, throat, lungs, eyes sinuses and anything that could make mucas started making lots and lots of it. It was just insane. It was worse than tear gas day in bootcamp. Ozone is not cool to breath. I can not imagine that it would be cool for fish to try to breath in water, and corals I dont think they would be too keen on it either. I would say from my experince that carbon would be a necessity. Steve
 
Oscapus said:
It took about 4-5 days to reach 300, and now struggles to stay above 290 with all the mysis shrimp the seahorses miss.

Do you mean it took 4-5 days to reach 300 without O3 pumping?
It just took that long to break in?
I shut it down and will just leave it monitoring for now. If it climbs over the course of the next day or two I will have to assume it needed to be broken in.
But I just checked and the O3 has been off for hours now and the ORP is now at 140.
I am working all day tomorrow and tuna fishing all day Sunday.
I will have the calibration solutions by Tuesday so if nothing happens I will try that.


Boomer,
I checked again and there is little to no bubbles in the overflow. The probe is at the bottom of the tank. Yes there is more flow in there then in the tank but it's worse in my sump. And I didn't want to keep it in the tank if I don't have to. The manual even suggests putting it in the overflow. I will move it around to see what happens.

Thanks guys
 
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It may be just a probe break in thing like I mentioned, it is quite common but I never had that problem but my probes where $250 a pop. Probe break in time is quite common in the aquarium literature " aging the probe". The best probes are double junction Platinum. Yours is Platinum but I doubt it is a double junction. I guarantee you your ORP is not 99 mV. I HOPE you removed the protective cap from the end of the probe. Most well run reef tanks run in the 300 mV range without ozone.

When the controller is operational, it is critical that the tip (bottom 1-inch) of the electrode be immersed in the system at all times. If the water level falls below the lower pink band of the electrode, the ORP probe will not read properly. This for PinPoint probes, the one you have according to Red Sea.

Also, it is critical that one pay special attention to the placement of the ORP probe in the system. From those that make your probe..... kinda. I do not think for a second that PinPoint makes their own stuff. They are probably relabeled Bradley-James probes.

The overflow is fine if it is not to violent, me I still choose to put it elsewhere. I hope you do not have the probe to far in the water. It should only be 1/2 - 2/3 submerged. May probes have a small pin hole near the top ( can't be getting water in there) or a line for max submergence.
 
Ding, Ding, Ding...
We have a winner :D

Well it was all the way under the water. There was no min/max water mark on the probe. So now I have it in a slow flow area of the sump. I blew out the hole on the top as best I could. It now reads 202.

I ordered the solution to calibrate it but what damage was done since water got in that hole? Will it need to be replaced? I am still just monitoring until I can calibrate and test the probe.
Thanks for the help,
S
 
Well it was all the way under the water

I was afraid of that when you said it was just lying on the bottom. 99 % of tem are NOT water proof

Will it need to be replaced? I am still just monitoring until I can calibrate and test the probe.

More than likley but lets not rush into it yet :D
 
I took the plunge.. Well the cheap plunge :) I purchased a 200-300mg unit from Enaly for 60.00 shipped via Ebay. I recieved the unit 3 business days later.

I put a T in my venturi and plugged the Enaly unit into a timer turning it on twice a day for 2.5hrs. I will eventually get an ORP controller but for now I will watch what happens.

I know better than to make miracle claims but aftr running for 3hrs last night I swore the corals were reflecting more light... They just looked very illuminated.
 
Are you running an air dryer on yours John? Or are you just plugging the output into your skimmer and running it that way?

Keep us posted. I was looking at those as a cheap solution, but just wasn't sure.
 

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