TJL
copod
Congrats! I'm sure you will love the OBD LED's, outstanding light fixtures for the $'s
Cheers, Todd
Cheers, Todd
210 Gallon In Wall Build
- Thread starter Jerrow
- Start date
Help Support Reef Aquarium & Tank Building Forum:
Hi Jerrow - Wow! Super nice build & thread to go with it, I can see some things I'd like to change on my set-up. Thanks for the re-direct there! Happy Reefing!
Minor update to share... I saw these wireless LED under cabinet lights at Costco and thought they would be pretty cool under the counter top of the fish room since it is kind of dark under there (even with the lights on).
<img src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-ONoR0XN_eXg/UPSu4ja3DpI/AAAAAAAAIL8/wlMZNq7X8gM/s800/IMG_4008.JPG" width="800" />
Here they are installed. They turned out pretty darn cool. With the overhead lights on it is enough extra light to be able to see under the counters to work on something if need be and without the overhead lights on it is a very low pleasant light that is enough to see to not stub a toe after the tank lights are off.
<img src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-8TZ2zlAgESo/UPSu4BdfyhI/AAAAAAAAILw/k1XUBpegRco/s800/IMG_4010.JPG" width="800" />
<img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-owaMh9Buc-k/UPSu31iredI/AAAAAAAAILs/oZuojjNC61I/s800/IMG_4009.JPG" width="800" />
<img src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-ONoR0XN_eXg/UPSu4ja3DpI/AAAAAAAAIL8/wlMZNq7X8gM/s800/IMG_4008.JPG" width="800" />
Here they are installed. They turned out pretty darn cool. With the overhead lights on it is enough extra light to be able to see under the counters to work on something if need be and without the overhead lights on it is a very low pleasant light that is enough to see to not stub a toe after the tank lights are off.
<img src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-8TZ2zlAgESo/UPSu4BdfyhI/AAAAAAAAILw/k1XUBpegRco/s800/IMG_4010.JPG" width="800" />
<img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-owaMh9Buc-k/UPSu31iredI/AAAAAAAAILs/oZuojjNC61I/s800/IMG_4009.JPG" width="800" />
DevonM
Mantis Shrimp
- Joined
- Apr 1, 2010
- Messages
- 643
Indeed, nice build thread. I can't wait to have a room to sink my tank into (and all of the equipment
). I hope to have a side and end viewable. Got to love large tanks. I look forward to seeing your progress!
Peppie
Well-known member
Nice touch. As you well know the small details make a huge difference
Let me guess...... CLAP ON.... CLAP OFF... ??????
myindoorocean
Well-known member
I really like this thread! That's a great looking tank/fish room setup!
I'm just a little behind you, though mine isn't nearly as elaborate as yours. I've ordered a custom rimless tank, stand, lights, and sump from OBD. I've already got the sump and I'm picking up the rest of it this weekend.
I'm in Spokane also, and I was wondering if you want me to bring back your lights with me? I'm renting a mini-van, I'm pretty sure I'll have plenty of room.
Let me know, I'm going on Friday, back on Saturday.
Matt
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
I'm just a little behind you, though mine isn't nearly as elaborate as yours. I've ordered a custom rimless tank, stand, lights, and sump from OBD. I've already got the sump and I'm picking up the rest of it this weekend.
I'm in Spokane also, and I was wondering if you want me to bring back your lights with me? I'm renting a mini-van, I'm pretty sure I'll have plenty of room.
Let me know, I'm going on Friday, back on Saturday.
Matt
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
Matt - thanks for the offer, but I don't think Mike will be done with the wiring for my Apex by then. Said it would take him a couple of weeks...
myindoorocean
Well-known member
You might ask him. I talked to him today and he said they'd be ready and that Rebecca was going to give you a call. If they are, I'd be more than happy to bring them back if you want me to.
Matt - drive safe on your way to Seattle. Thanks again for bringing my lights back for me from OBD and saving me the trip/shipping.
pandora32
Well-known member
Really diggn the counter lights. Nice rouch.
My Lighting "Frankenstien" Idea...
So I thought I would share the creation that is in my mind for my light rack (ie Frankenrack). In case you missed it, I will be lighting the tank with three 180w OBD Helios LED fixtures.
These will be suspended (or attached) to a light rack made from aluminum "EZ Tube" or something similar. That whole assembly will be attached to a pulley assembly on the ceiling that is connected to a linear actuator. The actuator will be controlled via software on the fish room PC thanks to the linear actuator control board by Firgelli. So basically what this will allow me to do is adjust the height of the lights within a 24" range for either acclimations, tank maintenance or good 'ol S&G's. The reason why I am going the extra step with the PC control is one because I am a bit of a geek to begin with and it sounds cool but more realistically it will allow me to move the lights to a certain position easily. For instance, if I raise the light rack for maintenance I can easily return it to the exact same height because the software allows me to control the exact position of the actuator (ie return it to 12" above water level).
Is it overkill? Ya probably, but it sounds like something fun to build and that's part of the fun in all of this mess right?
If you are curious about the various pieces I'm thinking about here are some links...
EZ Tube extruded aluminum tube and extruded tubing for boltless construction system.
http://www.firgelli.com/Uploads/LAC_Advanced_Configuration.pdf
Linear Actuator with Potentiometer (Stroke Size 24", Force 150 lbs)
So I thought I would share the creation that is in my mind for my light rack (ie Frankenrack). In case you missed it, I will be lighting the tank with three 180w OBD Helios LED fixtures.
These will be suspended (or attached) to a light rack made from aluminum "EZ Tube" or something similar. That whole assembly will be attached to a pulley assembly on the ceiling that is connected to a linear actuator. The actuator will be controlled via software on the fish room PC thanks to the linear actuator control board by Firgelli. So basically what this will allow me to do is adjust the height of the lights within a 24" range for either acclimations, tank maintenance or good 'ol S&G's. The reason why I am going the extra step with the PC control is one because I am a bit of a geek to begin with and it sounds cool but more realistically it will allow me to move the lights to a certain position easily. For instance, if I raise the light rack for maintenance I can easily return it to the exact same height because the software allows me to control the exact position of the actuator (ie return it to 12" above water level).
Is it overkill? Ya probably, but it sounds like something fun to build and that's part of the fun in all of this mess right?
If you are curious about the various pieces I'm thinking about here are some links...
EZ Tube extruded aluminum tube and extruded tubing for boltless construction system.
http://www.firgelli.com/Uploads/LAC_Advanced_Configuration.pdf
Linear Actuator with Potentiometer (Stroke Size 24", Force 150 lbs)
pandora32
Well-known member
Sounds great. Im no computer, program this, program that kinda person, but it sounds pretty cool.
myindoorocean
Well-known member
I'm here, now to pick it up and make it home. You should have your lights by dinner time, hopefully!
OBD Helios with Apex Controller
First, the LED lights from OBD are pretty darn cool. There are a few things to know about them in general but more specifically how to connect them to an Apex controller. Special thanks to Mike (Mojoreef) over at OBD for the explanations. I am documenting the conversation here as it may be useful to others...
First the fixtures:
<img src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-vR0ZFWSGjh0/UPxvMXEzqQI/AAAAAAAAIMc/tXBxKqh3v2U/s800/IMG_4015.JPG" width="800" />
The two little knobs you can kind of see at the top are the two rheostats that control the intensity of the white & blue channels under a normal installation. For our purposes with the Apex, these no longer control the intensity however they must at least be ON.
<img src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-yreE3VNUs30/UPxvM-sodeI/AAAAAAAAIMk/0dUeqF7xfDk/s800/IMG_4018.JPG" width="800" />
The two power connections (top and bottom next to the two red on/off switches) are where the two supplied power cords connect. The two odd looking plugs in between are actually outlets that will allow you to daisy chain the power cords from up to 9 other Helios (did not know this prior to talking with Mike). You also will notice the four gold posts that are the suspension points for the fixture. OBD includes a basic hanging kit with each fixture by the way.
Now to the specifics regarding the Apex. As OBD states on their website, for a very reasonable fee they will change the internal wiring to bypass the rheostat control and add an RJ45 (standard network jack) to both sides of the fixture. This allows for two things; first the fixtures can now be daisy chained with the supplied network cables so that the control signals from the Apex are passed to each fixture. Second the blue and white channels can now be controlled by the VDM outputs of the Apex. For those of you don't know how the VDM outlets work, they basically are supplying a variable voltage signal ranging from 0 to 10v. This variable signal is what tells the Helio fixture what intensity the channel should be. One VERY IMPORTANT note, the Apex uses a range of 0-10v while the drivers of the Helio use 0-5v. This means that an intensity of 50% in the Apex configuration is actually 100% at the fixture. One final note before get to the wiring, there is a minimum voltage required before the fixtures will turn on. Typically this is about 18% intensity (or 9% in the Apex). So if you set your ramp up programming to start at 0%, there will be a period of time (between 0% and 9%) in which the fixture will not turn on.
Now on to the wiring/connection to the Apex...
First, if you have the VDM cable from Neptune you can just have OBD terminate the ends for you when they convert the fixtures from rheostat to Apex control. If you either don't have this cable or don't have it with you when you purchase the lights (as was the case for me) then you will need to understand the difference between the pins that Apex uses in the RJ45 jack and the pins that OBD uses. From this we can then terminate the ends of the network cable properly. A regular network cable will NOT work.
The Neptune cable is pictured below, by default Neptune only terminate the end that plugs into the Apex VDM outlet and leaves the other end unterminated so that we can connect it to a variety of dimmer drivers, pumps, etc.
<img src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-_9MMcUecmwg/UPx-StyjVnI/AAAAAAAAIOo/a5Cx85qLCvc/s800/IMG_4032.JPG" width="800" />
As a point of reference, the image below shows the pin numbering of an RJ45 jack. Ignore the wire colors for now.
<img src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-HC679CXcmJ8/UPyF1aCfnCI/AAAAAAAAIPU/GZ1-vVMocpU/s800/rj45-wires-order.jpg" width="300" />
The Apex VDM uses pins 1/2 and 5/6; each is a variable output (remember each VDM RJ45 jack contains 2 channels). If you look again at the Neptune cable picture above, you will see that there is a black/red pair in pins 1/2 and 5/6. The Helios use pins 1/2 and 3/4. So what this means is that we need to move pins 5/6 from the Apex jack to pins 3/4 on Helios jack. In looking at the picture below, the RJ45 jack on the left is the standard termination on the Neptune cable while the RJ45 jack on the right is how the other end would need to be terminated (this end plugs into the Helios). The two green/yellow pairs don't really need to be terminated as they serve no purpose, but might as well keep things clean.
<img src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-42Fdmwbfe8w/UPxvQDXwnyI/AAAAAAAAINY/18jhX5aKf0s/s800/IMG_4028.JPG" width="800" />
Now if you don't have the Neptune VDM cable and want to just use a standard network cable we can do that, however we MUST cut off one end and re-terminate in order to move pins 5/6 to 3/4. While it doesn't matter which end you are terminating (Apex or Helios), for the purposes of the explanation below we are going to assume that we are terminating the end that will plug into the Apex VDM output. If you look back at the RJ45 jack reference image above, you will see that green/white & blue are on pin 3/4. We will need to move these two wire to pins 5/6 on our newly terminated end.
The first picture below shows what the typical termination is for an RJ45 jack with only the 4 pins we care about terminated. The second picture shows moving the green/white & blue pair over to pins 5/6. Again the other four wires could be cut off and not terminated or you can terminate them into pins 3/4 and 7/8.
<img src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/--FfgYY-BqFY/UPyJBlGzk3I/AAAAAAAAIPs/rXVfGclKNOE/s800/IMG_4034.JPG" width="800" />
<img src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-ZloAmI4l3N4/UPyJA1xRYjI/AAAAAAAAIP0/wCiuJ5fA2rs/s800/IMG_4035.JPG" width="800" />
And with that we can now plug our "custom" network cable into the VDM output and the first Helios in our chain. Assuming we did everything correctly, we should have some really bright lights! Just a hint: change the default programming of the VDM outputs before plugging your lights in. Otherwise you end up with pulsing lights since the default programming is for these outlets to turn on/off every couple of seconds...
I'll get into the actual Apex programming in a later post after I've had some time to play with the lights a bit...
First, the LED lights from OBD are pretty darn cool. There are a few things to know about them in general but more specifically how to connect them to an Apex controller. Special thanks to Mike (Mojoreef) over at OBD for the explanations. I am documenting the conversation here as it may be useful to others...
First the fixtures:
<img src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-vR0ZFWSGjh0/UPxvMXEzqQI/AAAAAAAAIMc/tXBxKqh3v2U/s800/IMG_4015.JPG" width="800" />
The two little knobs you can kind of see at the top are the two rheostats that control the intensity of the white & blue channels under a normal installation. For our purposes with the Apex, these no longer control the intensity however they must at least be ON.
<img src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-yreE3VNUs30/UPxvM-sodeI/AAAAAAAAIMk/0dUeqF7xfDk/s800/IMG_4018.JPG" width="800" />
The two power connections (top and bottom next to the two red on/off switches) are where the two supplied power cords connect. The two odd looking plugs in between are actually outlets that will allow you to daisy chain the power cords from up to 9 other Helios (did not know this prior to talking with Mike). You also will notice the four gold posts that are the suspension points for the fixture. OBD includes a basic hanging kit with each fixture by the way.
Now to the specifics regarding the Apex. As OBD states on their website, for a very reasonable fee they will change the internal wiring to bypass the rheostat control and add an RJ45 (standard network jack) to both sides of the fixture. This allows for two things; first the fixtures can now be daisy chained with the supplied network cables so that the control signals from the Apex are passed to each fixture. Second the blue and white channels can now be controlled by the VDM outputs of the Apex. For those of you don't know how the VDM outlets work, they basically are supplying a variable voltage signal ranging from 0 to 10v. This variable signal is what tells the Helio fixture what intensity the channel should be. One VERY IMPORTANT note, the Apex uses a range of 0-10v while the drivers of the Helio use 0-5v. This means that an intensity of 50% in the Apex configuration is actually 100% at the fixture. One final note before get to the wiring, there is a minimum voltage required before the fixtures will turn on. Typically this is about 18% intensity (or 9% in the Apex). So if you set your ramp up programming to start at 0%, there will be a period of time (between 0% and 9%) in which the fixture will not turn on.
Now on to the wiring/connection to the Apex...
First, if you have the VDM cable from Neptune you can just have OBD terminate the ends for you when they convert the fixtures from rheostat to Apex control. If you either don't have this cable or don't have it with you when you purchase the lights (as was the case for me) then you will need to understand the difference between the pins that Apex uses in the RJ45 jack and the pins that OBD uses. From this we can then terminate the ends of the network cable properly. A regular network cable will NOT work.
The Neptune cable is pictured below, by default Neptune only terminate the end that plugs into the Apex VDM outlet and leaves the other end unterminated so that we can connect it to a variety of dimmer drivers, pumps, etc.
<img src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-_9MMcUecmwg/UPx-StyjVnI/AAAAAAAAIOo/a5Cx85qLCvc/s800/IMG_4032.JPG" width="800" />
As a point of reference, the image below shows the pin numbering of an RJ45 jack. Ignore the wire colors for now.
<img src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-HC679CXcmJ8/UPyF1aCfnCI/AAAAAAAAIPU/GZ1-vVMocpU/s800/rj45-wires-order.jpg" width="300" />
The Apex VDM uses pins 1/2 and 5/6; each is a variable output (remember each VDM RJ45 jack contains 2 channels). If you look again at the Neptune cable picture above, you will see that there is a black/red pair in pins 1/2 and 5/6. The Helios use pins 1/2 and 3/4. So what this means is that we need to move pins 5/6 from the Apex jack to pins 3/4 on Helios jack. In looking at the picture below, the RJ45 jack on the left is the standard termination on the Neptune cable while the RJ45 jack on the right is how the other end would need to be terminated (this end plugs into the Helios). The two green/yellow pairs don't really need to be terminated as they serve no purpose, but might as well keep things clean.
<img src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-42Fdmwbfe8w/UPxvQDXwnyI/AAAAAAAAINY/18jhX5aKf0s/s800/IMG_4028.JPG" width="800" />
Now if you don't have the Neptune VDM cable and want to just use a standard network cable we can do that, however we MUST cut off one end and re-terminate in order to move pins 5/6 to 3/4. While it doesn't matter which end you are terminating (Apex or Helios), for the purposes of the explanation below we are going to assume that we are terminating the end that will plug into the Apex VDM output. If you look back at the RJ45 jack reference image above, you will see that green/white & blue are on pin 3/4. We will need to move these two wire to pins 5/6 on our newly terminated end.
The first picture below shows what the typical termination is for an RJ45 jack with only the 4 pins we care about terminated. The second picture shows moving the green/white & blue pair over to pins 5/6. Again the other four wires could be cut off and not terminated or you can terminate them into pins 3/4 and 7/8.
<img src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/--FfgYY-BqFY/UPyJBlGzk3I/AAAAAAAAIPs/rXVfGclKNOE/s800/IMG_4034.JPG" width="800" />
<img src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-ZloAmI4l3N4/UPyJA1xRYjI/AAAAAAAAIP0/wCiuJ5fA2rs/s800/IMG_4035.JPG" width="800" />
And with that we can now plug our "custom" network cable into the VDM output and the first Helios in our chain. Assuming we did everything correctly, we should have some really bright lights! Just a hint: change the default programming of the VDM outputs before plugging your lights in. Otherwise you end up with pulsing lights since the default programming is for these outlets to turn on/off every couple of seconds...
I'll get into the actual Apex programming in a later post after I've had some time to play with the lights a bit...
myindoorocean
Well-known member
Hey Michael, how's the project coming? Get any water in that bad boy yet?
mcdonaldjosh7
Coral!!!!
...I wish I understood what you did to those lights.
Great build, tagging along to watch it progress.
Great build, tagging along to watch it progress.
I bought a box of rocks...
Finally have some activity to report. I bought a box of rocks... I don't think there are many other forums that that statement would actually be worth posting about.
100 pounds of dry Pukani from BRS. Consists of three rocks which will be the base to the aquascape (style still undetermined).
<img src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-hCiwkslMEVI/UWNlPhzuvoI/AAAAAAAAIYM/sjyYBrsax3w/s800/IMG_4038.JPG" height="600" />
<img src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-t93i2xl0snU/UWNlPkI-AcI/AAAAAAAAIYQ/-I9mnz2JX3M/s800/IMG_4046.JPG" height="600" />
One of my helpers asking why there are rocks in there...
<img src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-_Y3XPtbaC3Q/UWNlPir_SBI/AAAAAAAAIYU/EeeaL1E5_OA/s800/IMG_4039.JPG" height="600" />
Also bought the stuff I needed to bring my RO/DI unit back online (tip don't leave it in the garage over the winter in northern climates, ice expands).
Finally, Mike O'Brien from over at OBD sent me an email this morning letting me know my lights were being shipped back out in the next day or two. For those of you that haven't seen the thread over in the OBD forum, we ran across an issue in which the signal from the Apex unit didn't want to play nice with the LED drivers. Without getting to technical, it came down to an analog vs digital control signal issue. The folks over at OBD came up with a great solution in the form of a converter that will ensure no further signal communication issues happen between the Apex and lights. So... once the lights show up I'll get to work on the light rack and actuator height control.
There just might be water in this thing by summer... maybe... well we'll see... this has to be the slowest build in RF history... :mmph:
Finally have some activity to report. I bought a box of rocks... I don't think there are many other forums that that statement would actually be worth posting about.
100 pounds of dry Pukani from BRS. Consists of three rocks which will be the base to the aquascape (style still undetermined).
<img src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-hCiwkslMEVI/UWNlPhzuvoI/AAAAAAAAIYM/sjyYBrsax3w/s800/IMG_4038.JPG" height="600" />
<img src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-t93i2xl0snU/UWNlPkI-AcI/AAAAAAAAIYQ/-I9mnz2JX3M/s800/IMG_4046.JPG" height="600" />
One of my helpers asking why there are rocks in there...
<img src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-_Y3XPtbaC3Q/UWNlPir_SBI/AAAAAAAAIYU/EeeaL1E5_OA/s800/IMG_4039.JPG" height="600" />
Also bought the stuff I needed to bring my RO/DI unit back online (tip don't leave it in the garage over the winter in northern climates, ice expands).
Finally, Mike O'Brien from over at OBD sent me an email this morning letting me know my lights were being shipped back out in the next day or two. For those of you that haven't seen the thread over in the OBD forum, we ran across an issue in which the signal from the Apex unit didn't want to play nice with the LED drivers. Without getting to technical, it came down to an analog vs digital control signal issue. The folks over at OBD came up with a great solution in the form of a converter that will ensure no further signal communication issues happen between the Apex and lights. So... once the lights show up I'll get to work on the light rack and actuator height control.
There just might be water in this thing by summer... maybe... well we'll see... this has to be the slowest build in RF history... :mmph:
