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The sump would be a breeze. If you have a drawing or even an idea with some numbers to go with it I can build it. As for the skimmer I have not yet built one. I have thought about it. The concept is simple but the milling of some of the parts is very detailed. I wouldnt feel comfortable saying I could do it.
What size sump are you thinking?
 
something around 60 to 80 gallons. I would like it to be like 30 to 34 inches long and at least 24 wide. Multiple baffles while still having room for skimmers and such. Also I would like to go from high flow to a slower rate if possible. My return pulls like 3600 gph but I do want a slow section....maybe I would have to have it split or something....I dunno.
 
With that size 34 x24 x18'' tall would be 63 gal. If you went to 22'' tall would be 77 gal. That seems pretty deep for a sump. I think most are around 16'' tall. So 16 x 28 x38 would be 73 gal. Is there a certain spot it has to fit? As for slowing down the flow you would have to split the return line and add acouple ball valves.
 
I would like the return flow to be a full power....just want a slow moving section of the sump. As for the dimensions....I can't go over 35 inches as my stand is exactly 35. That is why I was thinking 34. I would like it to be wider than normal sumps as I was hoping to divide it into sump on one side and fuge on the other. My stand is 35x35x39 or something to that affect.
 
We should discuss this via PM so we aren't detouring your thread here.
 
I got side tracked with Reeflogic, but now I'm ready to post more pics. My plan B for the top center brce is to cut it out and put a brace on each side of the skimmer area.
<a href="http://s888.photobucket.com/albums/ac86/peppie53/New%20Tank/?action=view&current=110_2147.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i888.photobucket.com/albums/ac86/peppie53/New%20Tank/110_2147.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
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As you can see that center brace was right in the way.
 
I got started this morning with an overflow chamber. The intake for the filter chamber is only 8'' wide and centered in the tank. I didnt think that would be wide enough to clear the top of the water of all the skim. I made the overflow box 21'' long x 1 1/2 x 1 1/2. That should help clear the skim better that a 8'' opening.
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I marked out the front and set up a jig in the drillpress.
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Then it was over to the bandsaw to cut the slots
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This system works pretty and you dont have to make a jig for the router
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The small bridge type pieces in the middle will help glue it to the face of the back of the tank.I notched them to let the water flow thru
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Next I have to fit the black plastic to the face of the filter box. I had to buy it from the scrap bin at the local plastic store, so I had to get three pieces
 
I had to do some notching around all of the bracing
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I used the jointer to get the mating pieces to fit without any gaps
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I cut in the overflow notch to the skimmer chamber without any teeth. I want to be sure there will be plenty of flow for only 8'' of opening.
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Sorry this pic is a little blurry but you can see the void behind the black plastic were the return will be. I will run a 1/2'' x 1/2'' strip from top to bottom to support the black plastic, that will also help me ge a good glue joint .
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I clamped the over flow in place so you could see how it is supposed to work with the toothless skimmer notch.
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This is were the bulkheads will be located. A pump on the right and a pump on the left. You can see the open bridge under the filter box to keep the return area all one unit.
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That is all I have for now. I need to line the tank with glue strips for the false wall next.
 
I pulled the canopy for the tank out of the attic today to be sure it would be tall enough for a HOB / in sump skimmer. That isnt going to be a problem. But I made a sliding door to get into the canopy, I didnt want want to lift the lights or reach over an additional 9'' of hood to feed or move a rock around. The sliding door slid from left to right. I need 30+'' to the right of the tank to open the slider. Yep you guessed it the right side of the tank sits against the wall. Time for another plan -B-.
I'll post some pics on that later.
 
Following along and see how this comes about.

FWIW I would try and use a router with a flush trim bit to route out the teeth next time. I've done it that way a few times and never had any broken teeth in the baffle.
 
I have used that method in the past and it did a very good job. In the time it took to build the jig for the router I could have had a set of these done. You would have to look really close to is the difference in the two methods.
 
To day I started on the bracing/glue strips for the false wall. The blocks of wood keep the strip the same distance from the back the same from top to bottom.
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Her is the filter box being glued to the back of the tank. I used the vertical sticks to keep pressure down on the box until the glue dries. I put some black plastic strips on the face of the filter box to correct a brain fart. When I glued the bracing/glue strips to the side of the tank (first pic) I had a 1/4'' difference. Easy fix.
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I set the skimmer in the chamber to be sure the height will be OK. I will have two of the in the chamber. They are rated for 25gal each. They will have to do untill I can upgrade. The show part of the tank is 55gal. So I figure something is better tan nothing. The tank will have two maybe three fish untill I upgrade the skimmer
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Ive been looking at skimmers on line. I'm thinking about the Reef Oct.2000 HOB, or the AquaC Ram. HOB. Better yet I might build my own. LOL Maybe not. By the time I buy the pump,plastic,fittings,glue,tubing. I could pick up a good used one for the same price and not have to deal with a for sure mistake.
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The eggcrate on the left and right will hold the pumps up off the bottom. I wont have to get wet up to my sholder to get them out for cleaning.
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Next I will get the false wall glued in place, then do a flow test. I think I may have to adjust the height on the skimmer chamber outlet teeth.
 
Acrylic snow.
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I tried a shield some time back and it got covered pretty quick and I couldnt see. As you can see I got the bottom of the tank cut flush today.
 
Well my goal today was to get the false wall installed and the face of the tank trimmed out. Take a look.
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Oops doubled up. That is two out of three. One to go. The seams turn out good exept that one piece was a different thickness. Thats what you get whene you buy from the scrap bin. The coraline will cover it shortly. The difference is very small. About the thickness of two pieces of writing paper.
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There, one false wall. I installed the overflow box as well.
The trim pieces are 1 1/4'' x 1/4''stock. I glued a 22''x 6'' piece on the side to cover the filter section on the left side only. The right side will be against the wall.
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After cutting the trim on the table saw the edges need to be smoothed and a small champfer on the corners. This is the tool that works for me.
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Its a card scraper, just a piece of steel with a wire burr rolled over on the edges. Its quick and and not near as loud as a router.
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This is the edge right from the tablesaw.
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This is after the card scraper. It took me less than a min to dress both edges of one piece of trim
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Here are the shavings it produces.
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This is a better pic. You can see the overflow better.
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Lefthand viewing side
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Righthand non viewing side. It will be aginst a wall.
Thats all for today. Next is the flow test
 
Peppie, YOU THE MAN ! What an awsome project for you to continually amaze us with your craftsman skills.

Cheers, Todd
 
Thanks Todd
I just hope this tank works as good as the last two. The think it is going to be a bare bottom. The less crap I have laying on the bottom the better the small filter area will keep things clean. I know I will have to pack it full of rock to help make up for the loss of the substrate. I can get a bunch in the return area behind the false wall. Does the live rock need light to do its job right?
I started working on the hood today. It was built a year ago, I just have to make my lights fit. I'll post some pics later.
 
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