DIY Steel Frame Stand

[RandyStacyE]

I will soon be getting a new 180 gal wide glass drilled tank (6' x 24" x 24"). I’m going to build a steel stand and I’m merely in the basic design stage. I saw this thread a while back and loved the idea of having access to all sides under the tank when desired.
Here’s the link: http://reefcentral.com/forums/showt...threadid=737498

Here’s my idea so far for the stand’s frame:

Once the frame is welded up I'll sand blast it and coat it with PermaFlex (from www.sanitred.com). I will likely finish this sand so that the sides and front can be removed individually (possibly with magnets). I'll likely have 4 doors on the front.

I’m curious as to what size of steel tubing should be used.

 

[Scooterman]

I'd dare to say 1.5" or at most 2", by 3/16" thick box would work fine. Nikki had a steel frame made for her tank. http://www.reeffrontiers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2884 I can't tell for sure but It looks like hers is 1.5" box 1/8" thick but you can just shoot her a PM to get the actual size.

 

[RandyStacyE]

Thank you for the link.

 

[Krish]

Here's another link as well to where Don (DonW) uses a steel frame as well. HTH and best of luck

http://www.reeffrontiers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4743

 

[NaH2O]

I replied to your post on my thread, but I'll add it here, too. For my 120 gallon (48X24X24) tank:

A500 Structural Steel - dimension of steel: 3" X 1.5" X 11 Ga (120 wall). The dimensions of the frame itself: 48" X 24" X 36"

The frame was then painted with a marine topside paint.

 

[DonW]

You need to rethink the design a little if your not going to screw the skin. Even with 2x2 1/8 your going to get movement. It will be strong but not rigid.

Don

 

[DonW]

I saw this was kind of moved to Nikki's thread but I'll move back here. What you want to remove is the twist. Nikki's tank is optimum for her stand. No two sides are more than double the length of the shortest side. This is not the case with your tank, being 6ft vs 4ft. Anything over 4ft will have lateral twist with that kind of weight. Either using larger material or using angle gussets will remove the twisting. If the skin was attatched with tabs like Nikki's you would be connecting the oposite corners via the skin plywood.

Don

 

[RandyStacyE]

Thanks for the input DonW. I think I understand. So basically either design below would work with no skin what so ever for a 6 x 2 x 2 tank? For both drawing I eliminated a front vertical support by using a larger beam.

3" x 1.5" steel

1.5" x 1.5" steel

 

[DonW]

Yup. I'd use 1.5 x3 on everything. If you go back and look at my my stand. Even with the angle braces and 1" tube it really was designed to be skinned and mine is smaller than yours.

Don

 

[RandyStacyE]

Cool tank you much. I saw that frame, I like the shelf on the back for your pumps. As much as I like Microsoft Paint I'm sick of drawing. I haven't figured out my CAD yet.

 

[JPG@CFI]

Steel Stand

We use 2" square tubing, .250 wall on most 6' tanks. 1.5" square tubing. .250 wall on smaller tanks. Your layout has everything to do with it's overall strength. I have an engineer spec anything that is too big or really custom. Better safe than ....... All our stands carry a huge saftey factor. They are also impervious to the salt water. I tested a piece of steel for 5 months soaking in a bucket. Give me a shout if you need info.

Jason
CFI
worldclassaquariums.com