Jiddy's 220g MASTERPIECE!

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I think you just HiJack'd my thread Krish, pretty upset about that *cry*

Anyways, i scrubbed my tank today to get that slime off, its not growing back like it did initially. Few questions:

1. How much water should i change out
2. How long should i let my uncirculated NSW sit before adding it to the tank
 
I would do a 20-25% change initially, and see how things look. Let the ASW (artificial salt water - NSW is natural salt water) mix for 24 hours prior to using. Do you have a spare powerhead to stick in there just to help with circulation? You can also occasionally go in there and stir it up by hand. Be sure it is mixed well, and the salinity and temperature match that of the tank.
 
I think you just HiJack'd my thread Krish, pretty upset about that *cry*
Click to expand...

I learned from the best Jiddy...Your the master LOL. No, I was just answering your question about Breezes. I had a reason this time.
 
You can also use an airstone and a small air pump for 24 hours prior to adding into your tank. It creates circulation to mix the salt plus it helps scrub out excess CO2 that builds up in standing water.

Clayton
 
Hey Jid, check this out. I am going to build this for the covered patio, to go on the wall that my tank sits on inside. It will be for the ro/di make up water, with a 1/4" line coming from the ro/di to the tank with a float valve, and a 1/4" line going from this tank to my sump with a float valve for topoff, and when I want to do a wter change I add salt to the outside tank, let it mix, then switch a couple of valves, hook a pipe to the one sticking out the side and run it to the sump to pump the new water in. Here is a pic of the stand I'm going to build for the outside, without the front doors pictured.

Outside%20Tank.jpg
 
Ken, its gettin close to your bedtime. Im not sure how a floatvalve works really, i know it blocks the water from comin throu the line once it floats to the level you want, but does your ROunit keep runnin then? I would like to have a contraption like that once i get a fishroom, you will have to take a video of you workin it thou because i cant follow that throu text! Looks good thou and i think they are a must to have

I found my LMB today
 
I will get you an updated drawing when I finish it. The ro/di will stop producing when the float valve blocks the water outlet from it, the backpressure shuts off a valve in it if it is set up for it.
 
Keep in mind that your RO must have an automatic shut-off valve in order to work. That's what triggers the unit to turn off when the float valve closes.

Clayton
 
I bought the $86 Aquasafe one Ken, do you have that one?

Clayton, how does it work, see right now mine is hooked up to the hose and is in the garage
 
I bought mine over 18 months ago, you want me to remember off the top of my head what model it was. Tomorrow I will take a look at mine and see if yours is set up for it.
 
Geezzz Jiddy, I found this in the description of the link ya gave me:

Automatic-shut-off valve is included, so when storage tank is full, the system shuts off to prevent wastage of water going to the drain.

Float valve works the same way to shut off unit. It is the same brand as mine, you have good taste. Your good to go!!
 
See i didnt get all the bells an whistle that one came with, just the unit, no tank and faucet thing, so im sure it would work if i paid for the valve then? It has been a great unit and when my cheap TDS meter worked, it was 0 TDS
 
Yea I didn't pay for the tank or faucet either, but the unit is set up for shuttin off. The float valve will stop the production of the water...
 
They're pretty simple, everything works by pressure. When the float valve closes the connection on the pure water line pressure builds up; which causes the shut-off valve to close the connection from the tap water. There's normally a piston inside the valve that does this.

Clayton
 
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