Peninsula 250 Deep Dimension, New build DIY

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Cabinet build done for now...

Doors will have to wait awhile $$$....more important things to do at this point.
It sure helps to dry fit everything in place before placing a tank on. Already I have had to correct some things... my sump makes it kinda tight for access especially since my stand couldn't be taller than the width of my 31" door frame. Cabinet finished at 63x38x30.5" and door accesses are 21x21. Can't trim down sump w/o not knowing true water level yet. Accessing skimmer will be a pain unless I get an external running unit. But I have to lump it with removing one inside brace just to use my BM200 for now. Overall I did pretty well for a 1st DIY.

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ALL A-GLOW NOW...
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STILL WAITING FOR MY TANK TO COME!

Album of complete build:
Tank build Peninsula 250DD pictures by djglenn7601 - Photobucket
 
Tank day has arrived!!!

INSTALLED APRIL 7, 2011 8:30PM

:first:Koudos and many thanks for a job well done by:
The family operated Sierra Pets in Renton, Jonas, and his assistant:high5:!
Also, aiding in the move: a fellow PSAS member Jacob from Tacoma:high5:, my brother and family. After stoking up on pizza and drinks our crew articulated the extraction of the tank from my SUV. Rotated the 60x36x27 girth onto its side and rolled it thru the garage on 3 dollies, down a long 32" wide hall, and where it needed to uprighted and lifted to a 30" cabinet hight.

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Tomorrow....the plumbing. My 9yr old will learn how fun plumbing can be.
 
That tank looks amazing. I just have one question do you plan on having a sheet of plywood under the tank to support the bottom, or is there a center brace that runs along the width of the tank in the center. From the width and the length of the tank do you think that it is necessary to support the middle of the tank. Just wondering.
 
tat2z_21 said:
That tank looks amazing. I just have one question do you plan on having a sheet of plywood under the tank to support the bottom, or is there a center brace that runs along the width of the tank in the center. From the width and the length of the tank do you think that it is necessary to support the middle of the tank. Just wondering.
Click to expand...

From what I understand you don't need any support in the center of a glass tank. All the support is on the outside rim. I think if you look at the bottom of a tank the plastic trim actually holds the bottom glass up about a 1/4". I think it's only Acrylic tanks that need consistent support all across the bottom. Someone please correct me if I'm wrong though as I am getting ready to set up the glass 180 and I'm working on the stand this weekend.

Fantastic looking setup. I really like the dimensions of these tanks.
 
tamarindthai said:
that 's look very nice good job,,i am tangging along here
BTW what you are using for return pump?
Click to expand...

Gold series Super Dart 4300gph! Flow adjustable and can be throttled back in addition to using less wattage in the process. 5 year warranty! Has a 2" inlet and 1.5" outlet.
 
tat2z_21 said:
That tank looks amazing. I just have one question do you plan on having a sheet of plywood under the tank to support the bottom, or is there a center brace that runs along the width of the tank in the center. From the width and the length of the tank do you think that it is necessary to support the middle of the tank. Just wondering.
Click to expand...

Well gang, I hit a snag in this project..."Guess What..." Apparently after the tank has settled on the stand, we are noticing that the stand is not exactly supporting the tank properly. Sure enough, we did the "paper test"-passing a sheet of paper between the tank and where it rests on the frame....and...there is some voids comming to view that would not necessarily be noticed because it is sooo close. But no cigar! This means that no water can be filled till rectified. The 1x4 hemlock top piece was not sturdy enough for preventing the suttle un-eveness of the 2x6 structure. YES...this means that a 5/8" 38x61 ply-sheet will need to be cut/sanded/primed/painted and added. Grrrr... at least its a dooable fix. Just need to round-up 4 volunteers to raise the tank while the new layer is placed, this weekend or so. Aaah well, I can still work on the plumbing. I'm so bumbed.

I never claimed to be an engineer.
 
eww said:
From what I understand you don't need any support in the center of a glass tank. All the support is on the outside rim. I think if you look at the bottom of a tank the plastic trim actually holds the bottom glass up about a 1/4". I think it's only Acrylic tanks that need consistent support all across the bottom. Someone please correct me if I'm wrong though as I am getting ready to set up the glass 180 and I'm working on the stand this weekend.

Fantastic looking setup. I really like the dimensions of these tanks.
Click to expand...

Yes do run cross brace at center or so. Doesn't need to actually support but help draw the long sides together. Look-up on Reef Central and see the design by "Rockett Scientist". This was helpfull in designing my structure. Double check clearances of interior cabinet including the position of the floor where the sump rests and it's working hight and the actual working clearance in respect to the door openings. I easily lost 3" somewhere and now I face possible cutting down the sump hight in my access sections depending upon the resting water level allowances. My other OOPS! On this build, learn from my errors.
 
that's going to be an awesome setup. nice work.

Did you ever consider putting that sump in the closet behind the tank so you don't have to crawl on your hands and knees to get in there?
 
Bummer on the tank not sitting properly on the stand. That sucks, but good thing you caught it before water got in it. Everything looks really nice though. That tank looks huge!!! :eek:. All the best getting the little setbacks ironed out and getting some water in the tank. :)
 
Well, I have direct sump access on the closet wall where I had the forsight to include a 1" bulkhead and union valve for adding inline equipment. I have'nt decided if I should go with an external skimmer $$$, I have heard they're not as efficient as in-sump. I'm just limping by with the BM200 till I can fund an appropriate skimmer. I already had some recommendations from Skimmy, just hard to choke another $900. Perhaps upon selling my old set-up when the moving over is finished...whine...
 
Whew, I made it through the hurdles of "Nightmare on plumming street..." The 250DD is fired up and running a river in the sump! I suspect close to 3000GPH, that's including the head-loss from the 4300gph that it is rated. I can say it is extreemly quiet and works fine using the "Bean Animal" plumbing. I just have to run a higher level in the overflow box since the streaming torrent was thrashing quite a bit in the box. Hopefully I can complete the shifting of the livestock Memorial weekend after the new salt matures abit.
 
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I created an umbilical link-up between the 125g to the 250DD incorporating the use of a Tsnami ATO. In this manner I am equalizing/acclimatizing the tanks simultaneously! Example: The 250DD is draining to the left/mixing partition of the 125’s sump by slow pinch hose aprox. 5-10GPH. The ATO in the 250DD’s sump activates a pump in the return side of the 125’s sump to exchange/replenish w/ returned “aged seawater”. This way I will be able to move livestock directly, thus avoiding interim tub/bag/bucket acclimatization step!

Sorry for lack of picts – just too busy.
 
More pics on this thread!!!! having seen your new tank I think it looks even better in person. come on...show it off!
 
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