Krish
RF STAFF
Sounds great Scooty! I know how long you've been waiting on lights!! 
Scooties Project "X"
- Thread starter Scooterman
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DonW
R.I.P.
Scooty are you going to do a different thread on that control system?
Don
Don
Scooterman
Well-known member
Yep, once I can catch up I'll get back to that project with details, I put it on hold because I have too much going on right now & had problems with a parts order.
Sweet Scooter! I am happy for you dude! I look forward to the lighting thread.
Scooterman
Well-known member
Lights
These are Luminarc III Minni's, with Reeflux 10K 250W MH Lamps. I ordered Ice-Caps 250W electronic MH Ballast. I Installed the reflectors so the actual Lamp is about 9" off the water, figured a happy medium for the time being. I'll tweak the installation & wiring later, just had to get it going first
PS, lighting timers, I'll get with Don & see what we can come up with.
These are Luminarc III Minni's, with Reeflux 10K 250W MH Lamps. I ordered Ice-Caps 250W electronic MH Ballast. I Installed the reflectors so the actual Lamp is about 9" off the water, figured a happy medium for the time being. I'll tweak the installation & wiring later, just had to get it going first
PS, lighting timers, I'll get with Don & see what we can come up with.
spongebob lover
flea whisperer
dood that's so kewl .
i wish i had that lighting .
By the way, that tang is getting big :lol:
.i wish i had that lighting
.By the way, that tang is getting big
:lol:
Looks great Scooter!
I look forward to seeing what you use for timers. I like the digital ones i have. You can check them out in my tank thread. I got them from Hom depot cheap and they have 24/7 settings with dual receptacles.
I look forward to seeing what you use for timers. I like the digital ones i have. You can check them out in my tank thread. I got them from Hom depot cheap and they have 24/7 settings with dual receptacles.
Scooterman
Well-known member
dood that's so kewl
i wish i had that lighting
By the way, that tang is getting big
Thanks, yes that tang s a little pig when it comes to eating
I'm thinking a little more beefy timers, will use better relays, I just need to get with Don & see what options we can do.
I need some corals in that tank, looks bare!
Krish
RF STAFF
It looks great Scooty! I like the color of the bulbs as well. It looks like it is the perfect balance of white and blue from the pictures for my liking
DonW
R.I.P.
Thanks, yes that tang s a little pig when it comes to eating
I'm thinking a little more beefy timers, will use better relays, I just need to get with Don & see what options we can do.
I need some corals in that tank, looks bare!
There are plenty of good options, I didnt want to muddy your thread with timer babble.
Really just need to know what you thinking. Don
Scooterman
Well-known member
I had two ideas on the timers, First idea, two set-ups or timer boxes, where one mh comes on 8 hours & the same for the second. I would just stagger them so the first comes on two hours before the other.This would give me 10 hours of lights (6 hours of them both on).
The second Idea is the same but you build me a controller that I can plug in both lights, the timer does the same sequence as the first but it is all in one unit. So instead of me having to plug into the wall with two outlets, I can do it with just one from the controller box. I like the second idea because it saves on the second outlet.
So the operation would be one mh on for two hours from the point I plug in the unit, then two hours from then the second would come on. After 8 hours from the start, the first light goes off, then two more hours the second goes off. SIMPLE
Confused yet?
I like babble when it comes to design, it is how we make things better.
The second Idea is the same but you build me a controller that I can plug in both lights, the timer does the same sequence as the first but it is all in one unit. So instead of me having to plug into the wall with two outlets, I can do it with just one from the controller box. I like the second idea because it saves on the second outlet.
So the operation would be one mh on for two hours from the point I plug in the unit, then two hours from then the second would come on. After 8 hours from the start, the first light goes off, then two more hours the second goes off. SIMPLE
Confused yet?
I like babble when it comes to design, it is how we make things better.
DonW
R.I.P.
I had two ideas on the timers, First idea, two set-ups or timer boxes, where one mh comes on 8 hours & the same for the second. I would just stagger them so the first comes on two hours before the other.This would give me 10 hours of lights (6 hours of them both on).
The second Idea is the same but you build me a controller that I can plug in both lights, the timer does the same sequence as the first but it is all in one unit. So instead of me having to plug into the wall with two outlets, I can do it with just one from the controller box. I like the second idea because it saves on the second outlet.
So the operation would be one mh on for two hours from the point I plug in the unit, then two hours from then the second would come on. After 8 hours from the start, the first light goes off, then two more hours the second goes off. SIMPLE
Confused yet?
I like babble when it comes to design, it is how we make things better.
Dou you want manual control/reset at the panel? What is the amperage of your ballast? Fuge Light?
Don
Scooterman
Well-known member
Each ballast run at 2.2 amps, so we need to rate it for 4.4amps, If you need an Inrush amperage & Can get that for you tonight but I think being that they start-up so slow it shouldn't be too high. I don't want anything else on the controller, no fuge etc.
It would be nice to have a reset, don't think we need to bring it to the main panel If you can do it at the box. I sorta like independent controls so the entire system doesn't rely on one source of control otherwise I'd build it all into the main panel. I think this would be better, also at this point I decided not to get carried away with one huge control panel all industrial, so I'll instead build smaller sub sets independent stand alones. Or in this case get you to do the dirty work for me
My plan as of now will be the Ranco for the chiller, the PLC for the ball valve. The lights will be the box you make for me. The next project will be the new ATO, I'll continue with that project later & last will be a way to use the two part calcium in & automated dousing system we'll build later also.
I do have future plans for the PLC & replacing the MBV but it is working so solid right now I'm not going to touch it, somehow it is running too smooth to mess with.
It would be nice to have a reset, don't think we need to bring it to the main panel If you can do it at the box. I sorta like independent controls so the entire system doesn't rely on one source of control otherwise I'd build it all into the main panel. I think this would be better, also at this point I decided not to get carried away with one huge control panel all industrial, so I'll instead build smaller sub sets independent stand alones. Or in this case get you to do the dirty work for me
My plan as of now will be the Ranco for the chiller, the PLC for the ball valve. The lights will be the box you make for me. The next project will be the new ATO, I'll continue with that project later & last will be a way to use the two part calcium in & automated dousing system we'll build later also.
I do have future plans for the PLC & replacing the MBV but it is working so solid right now I'm not going to touch it, somehow it is running too smooth to mess with.
DonW
R.I.P.
We can go with two 3A solid state 0 crossover. Mount them in a wallwart package with two built in outlets. I'm not sure if I can squeeze a reset into that small of a package but it would be easy to unplug the whole thing.
Is that what you had in mind?
Is that what you had in mind?
Scooterman
Well-known member
The problem with that is you plug the entire box to the outlet, I'd prefer using a hd three prong cord to bring to the wall outlet but the two 3A crossover should do the job.
When I ran the dedicated circuit, I located it in a very tight spot, so there isn't room for more that just a plug into the outlet, this is why I need the corded plug, I screwed that part up locating the outlet in the wrong place.
On the reset, I can set up a remote easily If you can supply the contact point, I have a few extra AB pushbuttons.
When I ran the dedicated circuit, I located it in a very tight spot, so there isn't room for more that just a plug into the outlet, this is why I need the corded plug, I screwed that part up locating the outlet in the wrong place.
On the reset, I can set up a remote easily If you can supply the contact point, I have a few extra AB pushbuttons.
DonW
R.I.P.
Like this with one cord? That way you could hang it somewhere.
Scooterman
Well-known member
Yep, just plug the lights to it & plug the cord to the outlet, also I can run the reset Pushbutton from one of my panels, to it & place it neatly out of the way for a clean job. The reset isn't necessary as you said I can just unplug it but it is in a tight spot so it would be nice.
The reset isn't necessary as you said I can just unplug it but it is in a tight spot so it would be nice.
DonW
R.I.P.
Yep, just plug the lights to it & plug the cord to the outlet, also I can run the reset Pushbutton from one of my panels, to it & place it neatly out of the way for a clean job.
The reset would need to be mounted in the same box as the timers. It would just be a toggle dpdt toggle switch dpdt switching 120vac. The 3A are the ones I posted being hooked up to the aqualifter.
To throw another wrench in the spoke. We could go with low voltage this way the reset would just be 12vdc and could go anywhere. But the you would need to feed it 12vdc. I think the first option would be cleaner, more compact and a few bucks cheaper.
Don
Scooterman
Well-known member
I like the first option, that should work out fine.
One question, do you think it would need circuit protection as in a resettable breaker etc? I know the ballast are protected so that may be overkill.
I think we're on the same page, so now just all I need to know how soon can you do it & where do I pay
One question, do you think it would need circuit protection as in a resettable breaker etc? I know the ballast are protected so that may be overkill.
I think we're on the same page, so now just all I need to know how soon can you do it & where do I pay
Scooterman
Well-known member
Oh one more question, that feature of being able to change the time intervals, can that be added or done when it becomes available?
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