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Scooterman said:
So getting high quality ball valves won't help much right? DonW is this true for gate valves? One more question, if I get tru-union ball valves & it is all plumbed up with water in the tank, I would still have to drain the tank to clean them right?

I dont know about the gate valves. My only experience is with my skimmer that gets cleaned regularly. What I did was use big soft rubber beer making corks to plug mine from the inside of the tank. I had to change the seals on both my ampmasters. If I had valves that could be changed or cleaned I could have done them. The problem is if I have a a big pump leak, I'm screwed there is not even a stiff valve that can be forced shut. Even with TU valves you need to use them regularly so they just get stiff and not freeze.

Don
 
Ahh, plug Ye hole up then repair the valve, good idea! :p

I know exactly what you mean about them valves wanting to freeze up, I have a 1 1/2" ball valve that is just sitting in the garage, man does it ever get hard to close at times & there isn't anything on it.:mad:
 
so then you need to open and close the valves on a regular basis to keep them from freezing up? i used true unions on my pumps but only used regular ball valves on my closed loop. i'll just make sure to add that to my maintenance list and open/close them every 2 - 3 weeks to make sure they are able to open/close.
 
Listen to Don...He had a tough time not too long ago with stuck valves unless you plan to go freshwater Scooter:p
 
Thanks Todd that looks awesome, I plan on putting my returns together like Toms, so that should work out nice, so they just stay there from the suction, I guess if power goes out so does the cover?
 
Kool That will be my first acrylic project then If I can make it bullet proof then I'll start making bigger items of need!
Thanks guys!
 
krish75 said:
I guess when you think of it, the rocks, corals etc will change the flow pattern in the end anyways...

Well If you look at my plumbing thread I've changed a few things because of that. I will have flow from one side as far to that side as I can, water will be pointed slightly down on each nozzle & to the other direction across in the opposite direction to get that wave motion in & out. On one side I will have my sump return pushing to help like when waves move inland. I will be able to tweak the nozzles to get the motion & coverage I want.
 
Hey Ron that is actually the front view looking into the tank. I changed it slightly in my plumbing thread. I got the 175$ worth of bulkheads today (dam if this stuff isn't expensive) , now I need to find a 1 5/8" hole saw, seems this isn't a Lowe's stock item. I will have between 11 & 12 holes depending if I do drill through the coast to coast for the return, I may just go over the top with it. 3 1 1/2"BH's & eight 3/4" cl returns.
 
Ok need some input I just installed heavy duty bulkheads & siliconed them but one seems to not tighten up until the rubber gasket seems to pop out, so I got another & tried it but this one did the same thing. SO how tight do I need to tighten the bulkheads, maybe I'm going a little too tight?

Thanks
 
Boy I don't know Scooter. I wondered the same thing and that's what scares me with using them. My AquaC EV-120 skimmer comes with a bulkhead on the exit and I just noticed I am getting salt creep around it and that was factory installed! So I don't know what to tell you man. Remember my sump expansion? Yeah, I used weldon and silicone to seal that bulkhead in so it won't leak. OCD again I guess:p
 
Most of the time, A good snug turn will seat a Bulkhead. Cranking down on it can deform the gasket. With acrylic tanks alot of times there are imperfections from the casting that make it tough to seat Gaskets. But I wouldnt crank on em to much Scooter. I would Back em off. Wouldnt be cool to make a torque wrench for bulkheads. That would make it so easy.
 
Thanks for that info Bob I had already backed them off to hand tight so we'll leak test it when I get through plumbing it.
 
Well here are a few holes to show everyone even with a hurt back I can still get something done, just don't tell my boss:p
 
If you want your plumbing to be a little more low profile you can use a 1.25 to 1.5 threaded inside bushing. They thread right over the backside of those sch 80 3/4" bulkheads. Just a thought. Your link above is dead.
 
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