Scooties Project "X"
- Thread starter Scooterman
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Scooterman
Well-known member
yep a measly 2.4 amps, but at 0 foot head it produces 3,500gph through a 3/4" bh LOL
Krish
RF STAFF
I hope that expired tube of Weldon glue Tom accidentally used to assemble your tank doesn't give out(LOL)
Your tank is going to rock man!! That flow is going to be insane with the way you have it planned out. I know now having this pump, has got you even more anxious!(LOL) Just take your time though and keep planning things out like you have been. Don't let anyone rush you
Scooterman
Well-known member
The 1/2" lock-line with the "Y" adapters will also work out as planned, now I need to figure out where I'll install the WaHoo LOL dam thing is big.
Krish
RF STAFF
LOL...You may have to whip out the camera for this one
Scooterman
Well-known member
I'll make the loc-ling fittings & then shoot pics tomorrow or Saturday if all goes well.
Krish
RF STAFF
Cool man...Have fun!
Scooterman
Well-known member
I pulsed the motor a few times to see how loud it was comparing it to the 1/3rd sized 4200 ( Dart equivalent almost) & surprisingly it seemed to be very quite, I think I'll have to recycle water back into the sump to keep up though, this should be fine because now I can plumb a header to supply whatever I need like, skimmer, carbon/phosphate reactor & eventually CA reactor, I won't need any other PH's or pumps. I think if I misjudged anything it would be the CL pump, I could of gone to the largest reeflow series or the 1,000 series & it would of worked out better using 3/4" loc-line, instead I reduced to 1/2" with a "Y" on top & a straight 1/2" outlet on the bottom, snug fitted also, looks like it will produce enough flow along with the sump return, guess live & learn. Funny thing the WaHoo is called the 3,000 series, I think they just slapped on the salt water seals on a 3,000 & made a new line, they say the three UNO series is rated for tanks between 50G & 200G, I have to beg to differ, I think you could go all the way up to a MoJo sized tank with one of these for sump circulation, 32' of head is plenty & they have one larger LOL
Krish
RF STAFF
Yeah man...You should have tons of coverage in there. Remember you don't want to blast everything out of the water like I sometimes feel like you have to do(LOL). Have fun hooking up!
Scooterman
Well-known member
SUMP Design!
Here is a few shots of my sump design before I silicone it all together I thought I'd get some opinions & ideas so please CHIME in
I think I might move the baffles up & put the skimmer first, so I don't get micro-bubbles all over the place.
The last photo shows where the inlet water will be from the main tank, the small divider I changed up some from my original plan, this will allow some water with slower flow on the side, still debating if maybe I should raise it the full 12" height as the rest & let the water come in from the bottom rather than the top as I have it now? I still have another 12" piece of acrylic I could add if necessary.
Here is a few shots of my sump design before I silicone it all together I thought I'd get some opinions & ideas so please CHIME in
I think I might move the baffles up & put the skimmer first, so I don't get micro-bubbles all over the place.
The last photo shows where the inlet water will be from the main tank, the small divider I changed up some from my original plan, this will allow some water with slower flow on the side, still debating if maybe I should raise it the full 12" height as the rest & let the water come in from the bottom rather than the top as I have it now? I still have another 12" piece of acrylic I could add if necessary.
Scooterman
Well-known member
35 pound Pump
Here is that big pump as I was talking about earlier. Sorry Can't see all the loc-line, maybe next time
Here is that big pump as I was talking about earlier. Sorry Can't see all the loc-line, maybe next time
Krish
RF STAFF
Looks great Scooty! I think it will work out just fine I only have 3 inches above my baffles for back flow and for the pre-filter to drain and that is more than enough for me. If you are concerned about microbubbles from the skimmer, why don't you fill up the sump to the operation height and turn the skimmer on and see what the return chamber looks like in terms of micro-bubblers. With that sponge on the return pipe for the skimmer, I would think that would eliminate a lot of the possible micro-bubbles
I only have 3 inches above my baffles for back flow and for the pre-filter to drain and that is more than enough for me. If you are concerned about microbubbles from the skimmer, why don't you fill up the sump to the operation height and turn the skimmer on and see what the return chamber looks like in terms of micro-bubblers. With that sponge on the return pipe for the skimmer, I would think that would eliminate a lot of the possible micro-bubbles
Scooterman
Well-known member
Changed design
I moved the skimmer over thus eliminating any micro-bubbles hopefully.
I hope with a 12"H x 8"D x 18"L the 1550gph pump doesn't suck air.
BTW I plan on doing away with the sponge on the skimmer.
I moved the skimmer over thus eliminating any micro-bubbles hopefully.
I hope with a 12"H x 8"D x 18"L the 1550gph pump doesn't suck air.
BTW I plan on doing away with the sponge on the skimmer.
Krish
RF STAFF
Looks good there...I like it better that way
Scooterman
Well-known member
Now I need ideas on how to silicone the three baffles without making a mess, it seems to be very tight.
Mauisreef
Rigameyer
I used blue painters tape on my joints and as soon as I smoothed them out I peeled the tape off for clean straight joints.
Detri
Well-known member
Ok Scooty dude,
This is what you need to do. Using a pen or something that will mark the glass easily. From the inside edge of the glass measure the distance you want the first baffle. Take half the thickness of glass (say it is 1/8" glass reduce the measurement by 1/16") and take off 1/4" off that. Mark the bottom in 2 or 3 spots. Then run painters masking tape on that line.
Measure 1/2" plus the half thickness of glass from the edge of that line. Mark it and run your tape along the bottom of the tank again. At the top of the tank measure and mark and run your tape evenly from the bottom peices to the top. This should make your lines square. Repeat this until you have all your baffle marked and tapes. Be sure to tape all edges of your baffles approxamately 1/4"'s from the edges all around the 3 edges you are going to silicone.
In spots your are going to have 3 baffles in a row, and you can't get your hand in between easily. skip the center one and do it the following day. Just use your finger to thin out the silicone pull the tape off that is touching the beeds of silicone. For the baffles that are raised. Use a spacer under the glass. I use a 2x3 or 2x4, I also make sure my baffles are 2"'s a[art so i can get the spacers out after the silicone dries. What ever tape you can't get off with ease and without messing up your work you just did, leave it. A little messier beed is better than a bald head from frustration.
The easiest silicone to get is GE construction grade. Otherwise you are going spend alot more money.
Any questions, I will try and find the time to log on here everyday for a while.
This is what you need to do. Using a pen or something that will mark the glass easily. From the inside edge of the glass measure the distance you want the first baffle. Take half the thickness of glass (say it is 1/8" glass reduce the measurement by 1/16") and take off 1/4" off that. Mark the bottom in 2 or 3 spots. Then run painters masking tape on that line.
Measure 1/2" plus the half thickness of glass from the edge of that line. Mark it and run your tape along the bottom of the tank again. At the top of the tank measure and mark and run your tape evenly from the bottom peices to the top. This should make your lines square. Repeat this until you have all your baffle marked and tapes. Be sure to tape all edges of your baffles approxamately 1/4"'s from the edges all around the 3 edges you are going to silicone.
In spots your are going to have 3 baffles in a row, and you can't get your hand in between easily. skip the center one and do it the following day. Just use your finger to thin out the silicone pull the tape off that is touching the beeds of silicone. For the baffles that are raised. Use a spacer under the glass. I use a 2x3 or 2x4, I also make sure my baffles are 2"'s a[art so i can get the spacers out after the silicone dries. What ever tape you can't get off with ease and without messing up your work you just did, leave it. A little messier beed is better than a bald head from frustration.
The easiest silicone to get is GE construction grade. Otherwise you are going spend alot more money.
Any questions, I will try and find the time to log on here everyday for a while.
Krish
RF STAFF
Nice info Ron. Always wondered how people went about it
Scooterman
Well-known member
Awe man The sump is done already LOL & she ain't pretty but well siliconed. Ron thanks very much I'll have to do that next time & I'll know how to do it right. Let me post a few more pics being I'm on-line.
Detri
Well-known member
Seems I am always to late lately
Sorry Scooty Dude
Sorry Scooty Dude
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