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Just to add to the above question. Would that cause the bubbles to collide and grow bigger? I am trying to get the bubbles to stay in the mixing chamber to stay in there a little longer to have more time to collect or hit the proteins?
I just read thru Mojos Skimmer 101. Dam you Mojo for making me rethink my design, AGAIN!!!!
 
peppie,

you might also send a PM to BillWann..im sure he could give you some advice...
 
:frusty:
IMG_0196.jpg
 

OK now that is just down right mean!! Just a pic and no info!!!!! LOL
Now that you have opened this can of worms. I will need to see a video of one or both of these in action!!!! LOL Really I am serious.

Then I need to know the details on how you built them.
Need to know if they should be modified. Or did they work as intended.
If they are for sale??
How much?
Can I use this design on my skimmer if I give you a BIG thank you in my build thread.????

I am thinking we will need to exchange phone #s pretty soon
 
Hey girls are not the only one's that can tease:) PM me your address and i will send one to you i made these nano one's out of sprinkler parts. Yes they work and create a vortex it will be up to you to make them work in a skimmer:) Seeing that will be thanks enough!
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Hey girls are not the only one's that can tease:) PM me your address and i will send one to you i made these nano one's out of sprinkler parts. Yes they work and create a vortex it will be up to you to make them work in a skimmer:) Seeing that will be thanks enough!
IMG_0195.jpg

A BIG THANK YOU
I sent you out a PM
 
Just to add to the above question. Would that cause the bubbles to collide and grow bigger? I am trying to get the bubbles to stay in the mixing chamber to stay in there a little longer to have more time to collect or hit the proteins?
I just read thru Mojos Skimmer 101. Dam you Mojo for making me rethink my design, AGAIN!!!!

Its going to be one nice wheel when its done!! :decision:

Ok lets talk about it a bit. Remember protein skimmers have only two main processes that they use to do this, from their their are a couple of other scenerio's that come into play. So the two processes are to first mechanically strip proteins and similar from water molecules and then have them Chemically reattach to the air water interface of the foam column. So lets break them down a bit.

In the mixing chamber (the part of the skimmer where air bubbles and water are mixing and not the foam in the neck) is where the mechanical stripping occurs. You are bombarding the dirty water moles with the clean air bubbles you are injecting. The best way to do this is counter current because all the air water moles have to pass all the air bubbles prior to them leaving the skimmer. If you start to complicate things you might end up screwing up the main idea. When you create a tornado in the mixing chamber you also create bubble destruction, de-coupling of proteins that have attached to the air/water interface and disturbance of the foam column. You will find that almost all of the new venturi skimmers that introduce air and water from the same source have these issue and because of this they have created all these little gimmicks to combat the problems they create. So the bubble plates, cone shapes and so on and so forth to lessen the adverse effects they create. So is the coupe of extra seconds of contact time going to be worth the possible ill effects?? or is it easier to just turn down the water input a little to get the extra time?? Your choice.

In the neck you are going to get a collection of the air bubbles that have come from the mixing chamber, this is where the chemical process occurs, so you are going to get some proteins that will attach to the air bubbles, some that will half attach and some that will hang out in the thin water that resides between the air bubbles (remember different proteins like different surfaces). So what you want here is a slow and steady rising of the foam that is formed with out disturbance and with the air bubbles remaining approx. the same size all the way up. If you allow it to be to dry you will loose the water loving proteins, to wet and you will loose the water fearing ones and if you make it to much water or air you will just freight train all microscopic life out of the tank.

So with whatever choice you may have in your skimmer design keep these simple processes in the forefront. Counter current to achieve a good bombardment rate with a percentage of around 20-25 % air to water. Do not allow to much violence in the mixing chamber as it might undue what its already done. Remember your dealing with proteins and there are many kinds, some fear water and want away from it, some love it and dont want to leave it and finally some protein chains are long and have parts that have both of the prior, so you need to make sure your foam has a consistancy to take care of all of them (not to wet and not to dry). Also remember that most all proteins like being attached to water moles and it will take some time to both mechanically strip them and then chemically reattach them, so the time the water spends in the chamber is important, look for somewhere between 30 to 90 seconds.

Mojo
 
Mojo you and Peppie are way over my head when it comes to skimmers as i have never design nor built one:) I do understand what you wrote and agree about contact time being very important. Peppie has his work cut out BUT i think it will be fun R&D AND A GREAT LEARNING project for him. He can face the nano spinners face up or down and based on thought only at this point the vortex won't rise beyond the first chamber. If this holds up then the contact time will be +Xs? Enough flow is needed to create the vortex this is where the gate valve will come in handy, also being that the spinner is turning underwater it should be smooth in the chamber not the same as water being shot in from a pump?

This will be a fun project to watch and if the spinners don't work no biggie:)
 
Mike,
Thanks for taking the time to explain what is going on in the skimmer. Sometimes, maybe to often I think " What If??" I will go back to the basic concept of this type of skimmer and try to keep it just that!!!

But I fore warn you I will put a trick in this skimmer.. Like it or not!! LOL

Thanks Bud
Peppie
 
I had the day off from work today.. so it was a great day to play.
As I had mentioned before I was going to add a cone to the skimmer. The wedding cake approach was leaving a bad transition from the 12'' tube on up to the 6'' neck.
So I contacted my acrylic fabrication buddies and they instructed me to build a jig to form the correct diameters for the top and bottom of the cone.
Sorry no pics. I was asked to keep it under my hat.

This is what we created 11 1/2'' bottom and 6 1/8 top

skimmcone002.jpg


skimmcone003.jpg


skimmcone004.jpg


I was very pleased on how well this procedure worked
I built a jig to cut the top flat so the 6'' tube didnt lean.
This is what the transition will look like when all said and done.
There are still a couple of rough edges to be cleaned up and a couple of flangesto make for the bottom of the cone to the 12'' tube
skimmcone006.jpg


skimmcone008.jpg


skimmcone009.jpg

skimmcone002.jpg
 
lo.....okN good now that some skill, the whole sump/skimmer is great:) I will mail that out Saturday FYI
 
lo.....okN good now that some skill, the whole sump/skimmer is great:) I will mail that out Saturday FYI


Thanks Spinner,
Another plat day today. After I got rid of the rough edges on the cone I needed to flatten the top and bottom.
You can see the different shades on the edge, this is a low spot.
LrgSkimm009.jpg


Glued down some 120 grit to something flat and have at it.
LrgSkimm010.jpg


The blue tabs are the ends of the wire ties I am using to weld the seam. Once the weldon is applied I will pull the wire and add some weight to the top and let set
LrgSkimm012.jpg


Drilled a hole for a 3/4'' uniseal and added some fittings for water in
LrgSkimm015.jpg
 
This next part is a little R&D. I am not sure I will use this or go to plan B.
I bought some 1/2'' spa flex and made a 12'' circle and layed it out in 5 equal sections. The plan is to cut some slots in the underside
LrgSkimm016.jpg


LrgSkimm017.jpg

Man I love my Dremal
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So lets add some water to this design
LrgSkimm019.jpg


LrgSkimm020.jpg


Are we taking bets??? Will it work???
LrgSkimm022.jpg


Yea Baby
LrgSkimm024.jpg


LrgSkimm026.jpg


LrgSkimm027.jpg


LrgSkimm028.jpg


So if I have time I will try plan B tomorrow.
Not real pleased with plan A.. The design worked OK, but I think I can get a better spread on the flow
 
I wanted to tuck the ring up closer to the top of the 12'' flang, and I wanted more flow and some adjustablity. Plus black spruces thing up. LOL
As you can see I used 1/2'' Loc-line and made a 12'' diam hoop and connected the two open ends with a piece of tubing. Then I drilled some 1/4'' holes in every 3rd section.
SkimFlow010.jpg


skimflow012.jpg


SkimFlow008.jpg


skimflow012.jpg

I used a 500gph pump for the test. It will be more like 400gph once it runs thru the pellet reactor
skimflow015.jpg


A few turns of some of the secessions and I was able to dial in the flow towards the center
skimflow016.jpg


skimflow017.jpg
 
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OK....... you are a madman! How fun is this thanks for creating and sharing both the good and the ..........:) lock line looks better to me too.
 
OK....... you are a madman! How fun is this thanks for creating and sharing both the good and the ..........:) lock line looks better to me too.

Yea I showed you all the good, here is the ........

SkimFlow003-Copy.jpg


I didnt think any of these pics were forum worthy

This design wasnt worth crap
SkimFlow005-Copy.jpg


This is the result of overthinking
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I went back to the KISS method LOL
 
So the skimmer cup has to come off the skimmer sometime or another to clean it. I decided to use the twist lock design. Yea I know Mike!!!
It will be easy on easy off with a quick twist. Many of the skimmers on the market use this design, so it is nothing new and it is proven to work well and hold up over time.
It is not to difficult to build. (as if that would make a difference) LOL
There are 4 parts to the twist lock
This part
necklock002.jpg

Will set on top of this spacer
necklock003.jpg

And this part will slip down into the first part
necklock004.jpg


They will be mounted on a 6'' neck. I havent yet cut the inside of the last part out yet.
necklock006.jpg


necklock007.jpg


This is how it will fit together
necklock008.jpg

Start to turn it in place
necklock009.jpg

fully locked
necklock010.jpg


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