Peppie
Well-known member
NOW YOUR TALKEN i like that blue! and your gonna like the spinner up high will give you some great surface action
There are not a lot of things I like better than having some action on my surface.
Peppie's 180 Reef-Room
- Thread starter Peppie
- Start date
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There are not a lot of things I like better than having some action on my surface.
Peppie
Well-known member
Thanks Kirk,
It was nice you could make it down to see my little piece of "Garage Heaven"
I have to agree with you that this is turning into quite the operation. The majority of reefers fit all of this into a box under their tank!!
Peppie
Well-known member
So just a little bit more info on the Frag system.
It will have its own sump, and be controlled with a RKL.
It will have its own ATO system, and a semi-automatic water change system built in.
The return pump is a Quite-One 4000 @ approx 900 gph. by the time it gets to the top of the FT and thru the elbows, I think the flow will be near 750gph.
The sump pictured will have 2'' cut off the top and baffles installed. Not sure if I will have a fuge on this tank or not.
The plumbing in the top left coming thru the wall is Freshsaltwater (on the ball valve). The curled up tubing will hook to a MJ1200 to pump dirty water out of the sump into the dry sink. There is also a smaller tube that will bring in fresh RO/DI for ATO
The face of the stand will have a finish board attached and painted white My reasoning for the slanted side wall, was for shear as Trido stated. But it also means I can stand right up against the FT and look down into it, without my feet hitting anything. The cut out is for ease of maint.
It will have its own sump, and be controlled with a RKL.
It will have its own ATO system, and a semi-automatic water change system built in.
The return pump is a Quite-One 4000 @ approx 900 gph. by the time it gets to the top of the FT and thru the elbows, I think the flow will be near 750gph.
The sump pictured will have 2'' cut off the top and baffles installed. Not sure if I will have a fuge on this tank or not.
The plumbing in the top left coming thru the wall is Freshsaltwater (on the ball valve). The curled up tubing will hook to a MJ1200 to pump dirty water out of the sump into the dry sink. There is also a smaller tube that will bring in fresh RO/DI for ATO
The face of the stand will have a finish board attached and painted white My reasoning for the slanted side wall, was for shear as Trido stated. But it also means I can stand right up against the FT and look down into it, without my feet hitting anything. The cut out is for ease of maint.
Last edited:
1guydude
Well-known member
Ur the DIY master peppie! Lol
Give him duck tape, cardboard, and bobby pins! He will sail to Australia!
Looks great BUT needs water and livestock.
No rush sir!
-d
Give him duck tape, cardboard, and bobby pins! He will sail to Australia!
Looks great BUT needs water and livestock.
No rush sir!
-d
mercenary-grunt
Well-known member
1guydude
Well-known member
Peppies at the go big or go home stage lol.
Maybe one day ill turn my 120dt into a sump.
Keep going!!!!
-d
Maybe one day ill turn my 120dt into a sump.
Keep going!!!!
-d
Peppie
Well-known member
Thanks -d-Ur the DIY master peppie! Lol
Give him duck tape, cardboard, and bobby pins! He will sail to Australia!
Looks great BUT needs water and livestock.
No rush sir!
-d
A jack of most trades and a master of none.
Im not a master of anything!! ( A jack of most trades and a master of none)
Peppie
Well-known member
The sump for the FT needs a bit of TLC,makeover,facelift,refurbishing,modified.....
First off with the top
Next, a little dremal work to lower the overflow box
Baffels and gussets cut to size
Baffles welded in place, From left to right Return<reactor<skimmer
The return pump is a Quiteone 4000 940gph, mounted into the shortened overflow box
Might be able to place media over top the intake
First off with the top
Next, a little dremal work to lower the overflow box
Baffels and gussets cut to size
Baffles welded in place, From left to right Return<reactor<skimmer
The return pump is a Quiteone 4000 940gph, mounted into the shortened overflow box
Might be able to place media over top the intake
Peppie
Well-known member
Time for a progress report.
The first leak/flow test done on this frag system was a disaster. The bulkheads leaked, the dividerwall leaked, and the only way to remove the FT from above was to cut the plumbing.
The bulkhead leak was easy as tightening the nut tighter than hand tight. (had to borrow a big wrench, thanks Kevin)
The dividerwall needed to be sealed better. Cleaned all the corners and the bottom gusset and masked it off
Black on black hard to see, but it is there
The bottom gusset is not as pretty, but very functional.
This is the finished plumbing down below. I added unions so I could remove the FT from above, without having to cut the plumbing in the future.
The first leak/flow test done on this frag system was a disaster. The bulkheads leaked, the dividerwall leaked, and the only way to remove the FT from above was to cut the plumbing.
The bulkhead leak was easy as tightening the nut tighter than hand tight. (had to borrow a big wrench, thanks Kevin)
The dividerwall needed to be sealed better. Cleaned all the corners and the bottom gusset and masked it off
Black on black hard to see, but it is there
The bottom gusset is not as pretty, but very functional.
This is the finished plumbing down below. I added unions so I could remove the FT from above, without having to cut the plumbing in the future.
Peppie
Well-known member
Now I can show you what all the plumbing coming out of the back wall does.
This maxi jet will drop into two compartments in the sump. the out let hose runs into the dry sink.
Pump water out, dump fresh saltwater in. In the reactor compartment
This is the ATO line that runs to the ATO holding tank
The (possible) reactor manifold rotates
This maxi jet will drop into two compartments in the sump. the out let hose runs into the dry sink.
Pump water out, dump fresh saltwater in. In the reactor compartment
This is the ATO line that runs to the ATO holding tank
The (possible) reactor manifold rotates
Peppie
Well-known member
The drain line section still needs a box built to reduce salt spray
Here you can see that the 45 deg fitting has space between it and the coupling
I left the fitting unglued. Now I can clamp it up tight to the acrylic. secure
More bottom shots
Here you can see that the 45 deg fitting has space between it and the coupling
I left the fitting unglued. Now I can clamp it up tight to the acrylic. secure
More bottom shots
Peppie
Well-known member
I got to thinking... What do I have wrapped up in the FT system???
I have hoarded some items, bartered for some items, had stuff left over from other projects. And yes had to buy some items.
I figured on the heavy side on dollar amounts, and come up with............. under.........
$180
That number makes me smile.
I have hoarded some items, bartered for some items, had stuff left over from other projects. And yes had to buy some items.
I figured on the heavy side on dollar amounts, and come up with............. under.........
$180
That number makes me smile.
Peppie
Well-known member
There was still one more round of fine tuning on the Frag system.
I had concerns about the splashing causing salt creep where the drains entered the sump. I wanted to contain the bubbles. A short box would do the trick.
Worked like a charm.
While I had the sump out and dry.(again) Time to install a heater holder. Dont want the hot element resting on any acrylic.
You can also see that I drilled some large holes at the bottom of the baffle. This will allow a larger amount of water volume in the return section. More room for back flush when the pump powers off. Also helps reduce the chances of the return pump running dry.
After a heated debate with Kevin, I also installed a gate valve on the main drain line to aid in tuning the system for sound and flow volume.
A BIG thanks to Kipo for helping me get my first sump ever up and performing as it should.
I had concerns about the splashing causing salt creep where the drains entered the sump. I wanted to contain the bubbles. A short box would do the trick.
Worked like a charm.
While I had the sump out and dry.(again) Time to install a heater holder. Dont want the hot element resting on any acrylic.
You can also see that I drilled some large holes at the bottom of the baffle. This will allow a larger amount of water volume in the return section. More room for back flush when the pump powers off. Also helps reduce the chances of the return pump running dry.
After a heated debate with Kevin, I also installed a gate valve on the main drain line to aid in tuning the system for sound and flow volume.
A BIG thanks to Kipo for helping me get my first sump ever up and performing as it should.
Peppie
Well-known member
I had posted earlier that I had a leak between the DT and the overflow divider wall. I took the time to run a bead of silicone around the divider wall.
Turns out that wasnt the cause of the water imbalance between the 2 separate compartments.
There was a hole in the bottom center of the divider wall, for a closed loop outlet. The pump for the closed loop set inside of the overflow box. It used the water from the overflow box to feed back into the DT, (not a true closed loop)
Kevin got a good laugh from this brain fart of mine.
To fix the problem I simply added another 1/2'' bulk head in the divider wall and hooked the closed loop pump up to it, drawing water from the DT instead of the overflow box.
Turns out that wasnt the cause of the water imbalance between the 2 separate compartments.
There was a hole in the bottom center of the divider wall, for a closed loop outlet. The pump for the closed loop set inside of the overflow box. It used the water from the overflow box to feed back into the DT, (not a true closed loop)
Kevin got a good laugh from this brain fart of mine.
To fix the problem I simply added another 1/2'' bulk head in the divider wall and hooked the closed loop pump up to it, drawing water from the DT instead of the overflow box.
Peppie
Well-known member
Lets change things up a bit, get away from the "everybody has a basic sump setup" Nothing special here.
I would like to keep as much light out of the sump area as possible without having to add doors to the stand and hinder the full access.
First I found it a bit dark while working on the sump, so I added a couple of lights
They also add a bit of aesthetics.....
Thinking of you Krish
I would like to keep as much light out of the sump area as possible without having to add doors to the stand and hinder the full access.
First I found it a bit dark while working on the sump, so I added a couple of lights
They also add a bit of aesthetics.....
Thinking of you Krish
Recalibrate
Well-known member
Great idea! Gives me the idea of using a pocket door.
mercenary-grunt
Well-known member
that's awesome.
Sent from my Galaxy S3 using Tapatalk 2.
Sent from my Galaxy S3 using Tapatalk 2.
TJL
copod
WOW! Dave, very cool and very excited as after a year and a half will finally get to see this EPIC build of yours. Though I missed out on versions 1-23 this one is "The Cats Pajamas" of any DIY-ers dream my friend.
Cheers, Todd
Cheers, Todd
Peppie
Well-known member
I know, I know. I did that on purpose.... yea, thats it, I did it on purpose. Heat rises, right? so if I have it at an angle it will get hotter at the top side, That should mean that I can set the thermostat lower, using less energy, and extending the life of the heater.????????
